jacking a car up...

[Junkman]

Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, then the next nearest, then the next nearest, then the nearest.

[garbaldy]

J mans way works just as well doing one at a time,

[Taff]

Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, then the next nearest, then the next nearest, then the nearest.

 

no mate, I meant, how would you bleed it without having all four wheels off it? It's had the rear calipers removed & replaced, the reservoir is empty, the bleed nipples can't be accessed with the wheels on. If there is an easier way, I would love to know! The sequence is

driver side rear, passenger side rear, drivers side front, passenger side front (in line with what you said).

 

My thinking was, I can either:-

 

a/ jack up one end, bleed, lower it, jack up the other end, bleed, spongy pedal, jack up rear again, bleed, lower it etc etc

 

or

 

b/ jack up the whole car, bleed, spongy pedal, bleed, spongy pedal, bleed, success

 

does that make sense? Like I said earlier, I the last car I bled was the Galaxie but the rear nipples could be reached with the wheels on, so that could go on ramps, with axles stands used at just one end.

[Taff]

J mans way works just as well doing one at a time,

 

until you have done all four and still have a spongy pedal, whereby you have to go back to jacking up each end in turn again, see my point?

 

I just want to jack it up once, rather than have to keep dragging the jack from end to end, and side to side

[Junkman]

Jack up at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the next nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the next nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel.

 

Alternatively:

 

Jack up the back of the car, bleed rear brakes starting with the furthest from the master cylinder, then jack up the front of the car, bleed front brakes starting with the furthest from the master cylinder.

 

Note that neither method requires the car to be jacked up with all wheels off the ground.

[Uncle Jimmy]

I loathe axle stands. Instead I have a variety of lumps of timber, 4×4, 6×4 that kinda stuff.

Covers a much bigger surface area, doesn't gouge the underseal/paint off sills etc, much better. I had the rear of the Ovlov up, three blocks either side to do the rear discs, an earthquake wouldn't have moved it.

[dieselnutjob]

I do this all the time.

This how I do it

Jack one front corner from the front of the car placing jack under front subframe.

Put axlestand stand under front subframe on the that side.  I tend to go for where the subframe bolts to the shell.

Remove jack and put under other front corner and jack up and put axle stand under sub frame on the other side.

Remove jack and jack up the back.  I prefer to do this in the middle somewhere so it isn't trying to tilt off of one of the front ones, so the whole back in one go.

One some of my cars it is easy to do by jacking under the towbar.

On others I have some used a bit of RSJ or scaffolding type wood plank (must be 2" by 8" or something) to bridge across the car.

Don't jack on the middle of a rear suspension beam as you will probably bend it.

Axle stands under a strong point each side of the back.

Job done.

I know that you aren't supposed to jack under a towbar however if you jack under where it joins the body and not under the ball/flange end I really cannot see it doing any harm.

[Taff]

Jack up at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the next nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the next nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel, jack up at the nearest wheel, remove wheel, bleed brake, mount wheel.

 

Alternatively:

 

Jack up the back of the car, bleed rear brakes starting with the furthest from the master cylinder, then jack up the front of the car, bleed front brakes starting with the furthest from the master cylinder.

 

Note that neither method requires the car to be jacked up with all wheels off the ground.

 

I know what you are getting at mate, but both methods require several jacking moments. And if there is still a spongy pedal (which, given that the calipers, rear flexi's and one rear hard line have all been removed and replaced, is possible), it's go around again.

 

If I go about it like POD sais, all four wheels are up and off, and any leaks that make themselves known can also be sorted while it's up there.

[New POD]

probably not. My main concern was at which end to start, any suggestions?

The drivers side.