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Rover 75 Diesel


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Posted

If only. I do have a photo of it outside the place in Callander that Supercharged the V8s. Nearest i will get  :mrgreen:

There was a short-lived fragile Supercharged version of the V6 as I recall - maybe only for Aus?

Posted

There was a short-lived fragile Supercharged version of the V6 as I recall - maybe only for Aus?

Did'nt know that, off to look now  :-D

Posted

I have the same whining sound from the A/C in my 75. I can't tell you what causes it or how to fix it. However, it is still working perfectly despite that, so doubt it is too much to worry about.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Not sure if this is connected. Last night during a short run the battery light flickered a few times. A good says alternator which costs £££ and a bugger to fit. I have checked the voltage at idle via the on board computer and its giving 14.6v. This would seem to be ok. Could the two be related or was the battery flicker just a blip.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

The 75 has been working away over christmas & new year taking us here and there. Yesterday the passenger door will not open from inside or outside. I think this is down the the door actuators which stopped working off the key last year. I am guessing this is going to be a joy to get open. Might just ask the good lady to get in dukes of hazzard style.

Posted

Alternator is do able on a ZT turbo diesel, not easy though, the main cause of issues is them getting a regular dousing in oil when it's changed or topped up.

Don't forget about that breather filter thing in the top end too - although I expect most on here know about it anyway.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Back right hand light packed up last weekend. Got a look at it. Contacts all rusted again, so cleaned them up and its working. Need to sort the boot leak out but im never getting to the bottom of it. Also need to figure out how to get the door open, need to try and remove the doorcard from inside i guess and open the door somehow. Then replace the two door actuators so both fronts open off the fob.

Posted

Just ordered a rear door actuator for the 75. Yay.

Posted

I need two fronts. Where did you get them? My worry is that i get a old one and it only lasts a few weeks, i think they will be a nightmare to fit and i only fancy doing it once.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ordered two new door front actuators. Prob a silly question but the key is not coded to these is it? Just before i start hopefully tomorrow and fit them.

Posted

I found that this engine in auto guise supped diesel like a bastard. I drove the zt about, which was the 135 map, for about a year and averaged about 34mpg. It was fully serviced and had no issues. I just figured that was it.

  • Like 2
Posted

Fitted drivers door actuator on Saturday. Took 3 hours. Was a worse job than the Reliant headgasket. It was like working through a toaster that was switched on. Hands ripped to bits. Lucky* old me has the other one to do on Saturday and that door wont even open.

  • Like 2
Posted

Postponed fixing other door as i really cant be bothered. That and it won't start, looks like battery is flat.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Replaced the passenger side actuator on Saturday. The door was unable to open from the inside or outside. I got the doorcard off from the inside. Only caused slight damage to the top screw and plastic as its hidden by the dash. Twisted the card up clockwise to get it off.
Once off I got the door open by popping the D shape on the actuator with a screwdriver. I then fell out the door.
Fitting the new actuator was not to bad, as I had done the other side a few weeks back. On the D there is a plastic clip thar fits around a threaded rod. Its easier to unclip this than remove the shaft from the door handle at the top. Saves time. I also loosened the big bolt at the bottom that holds the window. Gave me more wiggle room. Taped up window tobe safe. All works as it should now.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Had this serviced yesterday, and the pcv breather filter changed as i don't think it ever had been.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Boot leaking badly again. Sealed up under the boot trim under the back window again. Worse than ever now. Leak seems to be coming from the middle under the rear screen. Any ideas? Going to put more silkafex in tomorrow if its dry.

Posted

Mine is wet right at the rear offside but the wheel well is strangely dry.

 

Looks like Ill be chasing that one.

 

Can I ask, have you ever checked the condition of the rear chassis rails in yours? Mine have quite a bit of surface corrosion from the trailing arm mounts right to the rear valance. The rear subframe looks little better.

Posted

Mine did that too. Could well be rear light gaskets, or the washer behind the mut that holds the last part of the chrome waist rail is loose or missing. Mine is clean underneath, when we painted it we cleaned up underneath and I keep on top of it. Rear jacking points are scabby, will get this sorted soon. Jack pads are missing so I think I will replace these.

Posted

Little surface rust from memory. Mate at bodyshop said it was a clean car when he had it on the ramp. Do you have photo of yours?

Posted

This is the area above the diesel cooler, thats as far as my flash would reach without actually crawling under but it's a good representation of the condition of the back 1/3 of the chassis.

post-3238-0-13742900-1522183461_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just seen a photo on your thread. Im sure mine was not as bad as yours. But then I paid 1k more than yours for mine. Best get it on a ramp for a good look before spending a lot. I also had bumper off when fitting towbar and it was fine too.

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