Rustproofing

[chris1991]

My Beetle is long overdue for its underside and inner arches to be coated in something. I'am now going to ask that tedious and age old question as to what to use, I have always used waxoyl but it can be a right pain to apply and isn't the prettiest of things to be coating my beautiful inner arches with (but that is the least of my worries). I have heard good things about Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 which seems easy to apply can anyone recommend anything else.  

[mat_the_cat]

S50 is for the inside of box sections - it's not abrasion resistant so not a good idea for wheel arches. They do Dynax UB (dark brown) and UC (clearish) for exposed surfaces. I've been using the UB for a few years and it seems to stand up well. I've also used Dinitrol 4941, which was good to start with and then started peeling off after a few years. But you'll get umpteen different answers to this one, as we all want to believe we've used the best stuff!

[Lankytim]

Used engine oil mixed with cat shit

[AlabamaShrimp]

I got told when mine passed it's test the other weeks that it's very well coated underneath but that doesn't t's starting to peel on the edges.

 

No idea what it's coated with and really no idea where to start and with what seeing as I have never bothered in the past, though I would like to start

[Spiny Norman]

I don't have to worry about these things. I've got an old XJ6, they never* rust.

[mouseflakes]

Used engine oil mixed with cat shit

 

Lankytim - following your recommendation for the Lidl Cavity Rustproofer I thought I'd taste test this one ^ too. Verdict - not so nice.

[320touring]

I don't have to worry about these things. I've got an old XJ6, they never* rust.

Filler subframes ftw

[gordonbennet]

I did the Outback with Bilt Hamber's finest this year, used to be a Waxoyl boy, but not any more.

 

Got both variants (underbody and cavity) in packs of several aerosols complete with good flexi hoses,  the long probes that come with the cavity wax are the dog bollocks.

 

More expensive than Waxoyl but far less loss and infinitely cleaner in use makes it cheaper in the long run IMHO.

 

What i did on the subframes, which seem to be Subarus weak point rust wise, was rub and wire brush them down well, then painted the heavy wear areas with zinc primer, then some chassis paint, then finally did the whole lot with BH's underbody stuff.

 

edit, as a bonus the car doesn't stink like a chemical plant inside for a month which is the case with Waxoyl, couple of days and the quite pleasant smell had gorn.

[scooters]

Rustbuster stuff is very good. We used it industrially in the gas sector. Www.rust.co.uk made from sheep lalonin

[PiperCub]

Use Dinitrol (3125 I think) on mine - not cheap but easy to apply and doesn't stink out the car like Waxoyl.

[mercrocker]

Hand up here for the Bilt Hamber stuff - a £15 can did both sills on the Cowley and as stated above it does not smell like a refinery for months afterwards.   Neither does the car leech slippery black shit all over the drive for a week.   I used to have to immerse Waxoyl in a bucket of boiling water before it would even creep down the floppy tube they give you - BH just needs an hour or two on a sunny windowsill.....

[mat_the_cat]

This is what made me decide to give Bilt Hamber stuff a try:

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

 

I used Dinitrol 3125 inside the box sections on the BX around 10 years ago, and have had no issues with rust in those areas. The only welding I've had to do has been in the rear wheel arches, where moisture had penetrated the factory coating.

[af1]

I use the bilt hamber dynax s50 and then rust.co.uk 2 pack epoxy mastic brush painted on the under side..

I have done 2 coats then tigerseal instead of under body seal on any joins/seams etc.

 

For slight surface rust I have used rust.co.uk's molecular rust converter fe123 I think it's called...

 

All this stuff is highly rated by practical classics tests