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Wet sanding paint


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Posted

Am I correct in assuming that you wet sand paint to get rid of the orange peel effect that you get when it is a bit thick?

 

I have started painting the rover in acrylic black - it already has a shine on it but I am worried about sanding through even using 2000 grit wet and dry with water.

 

I assume I will have to buff it up later with farecla?

 

Advice please.

Posted

You should be okay with 2000 just take your time. Make sure you use a block otherwise it can have a weird affect on the paint.

It all tends to go wrong on edges as it's easier to go through there so just be carefull. The wet sanding needs to be brought up to a shine by a compound like farecla.

 

The best advice is take your time and don't rush it. It'll take a while to do the whole car.

Posted

If its a BL car I believe concourse judges knock points for non originality if it doesn't have orange peel.

Posted

Use a bit of washing up liquid in the water. It helps. Keep everything really clean. The tiniest bit of grit will seriously ruin your day when doing this. I use a clean (preferably new) wiper blade to wipe the surface down to check progress. Use fresh rags or microfibre cloths and make sure they don't touch the ground or get contaminated. If you drop a rag or paper, discard it.

 

Yes, you'll have to buff a shine on there with something like Farecla but you're really going to need a a mop. Doing it by hand, although possible, will take a long time and you'll struggle to get as good a gloss as with a mop. If you think the paint is thin though, you might be better off doing it by hand as it's very easy to polish through with a mop. Is it aerosol paint?

Posted

I always spray the edges/corners and let it dry (a few coats) before I do the whole panel, as this bit is the most susceptible to going through to the primer.

Just don't press hard and use on of those rubbing blocks. Use washing up liquid and hot water. ;)

Posted

Isn't 2000 grit a bit smooth?  Being an impatient git, I'd have a few sheets of 1200 to try instead.  As said, finish with a polishing compound

Posted

I used 2500 as the last stage bit, I used 1200 before that. It does make a difference removing those swirl marks you can only see in reflections.

I am doing a rattle can job this weekend and will take some photos.

Posted

I used 2500 as the last stage bit, I used 1200 before that. It does make a difference removing those swirl marks you can only see in reflections.

I am doing a rattle can job this weekend and will take some photos.

Are you doing the entire car with cans?

 

TBH I have had really good results with cans in the past ( halfords stuff is good) there is a knack with using them and like everything else good prep is vital - too many people don't know what they are doing and it ends up looking a bit of a mess.

 

I am using gloss black instead of black with a clear coat because it is easier to put on and touch up if it needs doing.

Posted

I've always found that the best way when lightly rubbing down the paint is to use warm water and a cheap bar of soap with your wet and dry..

I'm also an impatient git as most of the time I go for the 1200 grade route then I finish it off with a compound.

 

Just take your time and you will be surprised with the results that can be achieved with rattle can repairs..

 

I find that using a hair drier between coats to aid drying helps as it's the pikey version of a spray oven and a must have for painting. ( I've never used one to dry my hair as I shave it off lol)

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