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Electronic ignition conversion


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Posted

Not that long ago there was some discussion (i think) about cheap and reliable electronic conversions?

 

Did i dream this?

 

Can anyone help?.........with the ignition that is..........dreams are fine really

Posted

got a pair of vellemen kits on my 604 bought from Maplin

it still has points but only passes a tiny trigger current through them so that (hopefully) they stay in adjustment for longer

Posted
got a pair of vellemen kits on my 604 bought from Maplin

it still has points but only passes a tiny trigger current through them so that (hopefully) they stay in adjustment for longer

 

I've got the same on the 2CV. Same set of points has been in for about 20,000 miles now. Does away with the condenser as well, which is good as modern ones are rubbish. Cost me about £20 IIRC, though that included my mate putting it inside a weather-proof box and fitting a heat sink. Only issue I've had is when the heat sink came loose and it overheated in France. Got some intermittent backfiring but was simple to fix.

 

I wouldn't go the fully electronic route, especially as I've had three of those units break down.

Posted

I disconnected the condensors on mine (you have to) but left them physically attached to the distributor with the wires just hanging loose.

If the vellemen circuit breaks I can connect the points directly back onto the coil, plug the condensor back in and away I go.

This time (I thought I was being clever) I put the electronics in a box underneath the dashboard screwed to the side of the glovebox. I though it would be drier and cooler there, and not visible under the bonnet.

 

Problem is that the circuits make a ticking noise.

 

It looks like the noise is probably coming from the big capacitor on the circuit which is across the output (like a condensor). I will try desoldering the capacitor off of the PCB and put it under the bonnet instead. Might take a while for me to get around to it though.

Posted

 

I've got the same on the 2CV. Same set of points has been in for about 20,000 miles now. Does away with the condenser as well, which is good as modern ones are rubbish. Cost me about £20 IIRC, though that included my mate putting it inside a weather-proof box and fitting a heat sink. Only issue I've had is when the heat sink came loose and it overheated in France. Got some intermittent backfiring but was simple to fix.

 

I wouldn't go the fully electronic route, especially as I've had three of those units break down.

 

Do you mean the 123 unit, was considering coverting to electronic unit but if the points/Vellemen combo works fine may go down that route too.

Posted

Sorry if this is a bit of a biff question - but what are the advantages of electronic ignition?

 

Thanks!

Posted

 

I've got the same on the 2CV. Same set of points has been in for about 20,000 miles now. Does away with the condenser as well, which is good as modern ones are rubbish. Cost me about £20 IIRC, though that included my mate putting it inside a weather-proof box and fitting a heat sink. Only issue I've had is when the heat sink came loose and it overheated in France. Got some intermittent backfiring but was simple to fix.

 

I wouldn't go the fully electronic route, especially as I've had three of those units break down.

 

Do you mean the 123 unit, was considering coverting to electronic unit but if the points/Vellemen combo works fine may go down that route too.

 

I've had a 123 fail on the 2CV, and a DG copy. Had a 123 unit failt on our H van as well. Points-assisted seems a perfect compromise. Only thing to watch for on a 2CV is that you MUST still get the fan off every now and then to make sure the oil cooler isn't clogged up. Is a good idea to clean the points contacts every now and then too.

Posted
Sorry if this is a bit of a biff question - but what are the advantages of electronic ignitiion ?

 

Fatter (higher) voltage spark, less current thru the contact points, so no point arc / burning / adjustment needed, :idea:

 

or, if it's an optical system, i.e. a chopper breaks a beam between a led & a sensor (or Hall-effect device), usually built into the distributor,

 

then zero wear, nothing to adjust /replace. Plus dwell angle much more accurate to set up.

 

But I DO find they fail in hot rear-engined cars (Fiat 500's , Fiat 900T/e) but usually there's a switch on the module to change back to antiquated point system instantly....

 

that's my 2 pence- worth (2d in roman currency... :mrgreen: ) Roger and Out, Wilko.....

Posted

Thanks for the input from all

 

In answer to the advantage thing........this for for a friend's Pilot where the dizzy is awkward to get at and point needs maintaining. A good electronic set will meed maintaining less. Till it fails.

 

Where dizzy acccess is better I would rather just maintain the points.

 

Points (and condensers) these days seem to be shit though and will go off if you just welly the thing once but when they were in general use the quality was much better and would last between services OK

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