Bluebird 1600 - ROUGH RUNNING FIXED (:-)) WITH PHOTOS ----

[retrogeezer]

o.k, the bluey has always started absolutely faultlessly - even in that freezing weather last winter.

 

Last week I went over to stoke and it was low on fuel, I didn't run out but the guage was very low.

Went out next morning and although it starts it is running a bit rough, I just thought there must be a bit of crap in the fuel or something and it would clear iteslf but a week has gone by (plus a fuel fill!) and it's still the same.

 

I've put redex in the fuel, I've drained out the pump and filter, checked the pipes etc. I've also blown the jets I can access down the air intake through with an air duster thing for a computer to save stripping the carb to bits.

 

I don't even know if it's just coincidence that it was low on fuel last week or maybe something in the choke has stopped working but what else can I check?

 

Oh, just one thing - it has a twin venturi carb and the secondary side seems totally dry. Fuel did come through when I blew the jet with the air duster but I can't see any fuel coming through it when revving it up with the air filter off? Should there be?

 

The choke mechanism seems to be working fine too by the way, flap moves as it should.

 

Thanks in advance..

[retrogeezer]

Bump...

 

No ideas/advice anyone??

[ashmicro]

Surely the second venturi should be dry when at idle? What happens @ full throttle?

 

There's probably a little gauze filter somewhere on the fuel intake to the carb - I fear a stripdown may be necessary. They always go better afterwards anyway!

[retrogeezer]

There is a bit where the fuel pipe enters the carb with a bolt that looks removeable, I wonder if there is a gauze filter behind that.

 

Thing is, it has an in-line filter so that should surely stop anything getting near the carb itself??

 

With regard to the 2nd venturi, I did rev it up on the drive and it was still dry but not to full throttle, I never drive on full throttle anyway but should the 2nd venturi come into play at all when the choke is on??

 

It really does feel like fuel starvation but as I said earlier, it could just be coincidence and I could be barking up the wrong tree. Once it is warm it's fine though and I would have thought plugs/leads/cap etc would still cause the odd issue even when warm?

[ashmicro]

1.) If the choke is "on" venturi 2 should not be working. Let the car heat up and then operate the throttle mech by hand while looking into the carb.

 

2.) Electrical side. My Rover 214 was a bitch when cold, coughing and spluttering, yet fine when warm. Cracked rotor arm!!!

 

What make is/are the carb(s)?

[ashmicro]

Thing is, it has an in-line filter so that should surely stop anything getting near the carb itself??

 

 

Theoritically.....

[retrogeezer]

o.k, the bluey's running issues have now worsened and I am starting to wonder if the low fuel was indeed just coincidence.

 

It's missing at low revs now constantly and is lacking power, just like a lead has gone or something.

 

Now, I will check the cap and rotor arm but therein lies a problem because the little screws from the cap are corroded into the distributor itself.

If I can't drill these out will zip ties be suitable for holding the cap in the right position? I know there is usually a locator for the cap so it shouldn't spin around and should just need to be held on I guess?

 

getting a bit cheesed off now..

[scooters]

o.k, the bluey's running issues have no worsened and I am starting to wonder if the low fuel was indeed just coincidence.

 

It's missing at low revs now constantly and is lacking power, just like a lead has gone or something.

 

Now, I will check the cap and rotor arm but therein lies a problem because the little screws from the cap are corroded into the distributor itself.

If I can't drill these out will zip ties be suitable for holding the cap in the right position? I know there is usually a locator for the cap so it shouldn't spin around and should just need to be held on I guess?

 

getting a bit cheesed off now..

sounds more ignition than fuel related to me - If the dizzy cap is in that state then safe to say that the rotor arm will be old - I would replace the rotor, dizzy cap and HT leads for starters and check and clean the gaps on the plugs. If you are getting arcing inside the dizzy the car will run as rough as you like.

 

The dizzy cap will have to be held on but firmly - I suggest you source a new dizzy just in case drilling out the screws damages the body of the dizzy -

 

alternately you could destroy the cap and remove the plastic round the screws which will mean you will be able to unscrew the rusty screws with some pliers

 

whatever happens - if your dizzy cap is so corroded on then I would suggest the problem lies therein and it is a cheaper fix than anything carb related - good luck!

[retrogeezer]

right, I braved the removal of the cap and as I thought, the heads snapped off the screws!

 

But good news is I found this which I think you can safely say is a cracked rotor arm!

 

 

I coated it liberally with wd40 and put it back together using cable ties as I mentioned earlier which seem to hold the cap fine....thoughts?

 

 

And this is what I am left with....I may try to get the rest of the screws out with mole grips or something:

Anyway, with the wd40 on it's running fine - hurray!! Only a temp measure obviously but at least I know what the issue is now.

 

Funny how something else happening can send you off down totally the wrong path.

[Station]

Ouch,broken stud! I'd say heat will get that out, if it's safe to do so.

[Richard]

Use a pair of vice grips on the screws. Work them back and forwards, almost imperceptibly at first.

 

Cable ties will not be good enough to hold the cap on.

[retrogeezer]

Cable ties will not be good enough to hold the cap on.

Why is that then?? They seem to be holding it fine and I've been around the block in it!

 

I know it's not ideal obviously! I've given them a good soaking with wd too so will get some grips on them over the next couple of days.

[ashmicro]

The ties will stretch and shift a bit RG. Good result though, same as my 214!

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Nice work RG, I am well happy knowing that you're pottering round in this old thing. Keep it up!

[retrogeezer]

It's a great car MB, it's been used virtually every day since I got it off you last october which is why I was a bit gutted when I couldn't find out what was up with it.

 

It's just typical the rotor arm failure coincided with me running it low on fuel leading me to put 2 & 2 together and coming up with 5!

 

Had it had plenty of fuel the cap/arm would have been the first thing I looked at....ah well, you live & learn.

 

New cap & arm on their way from ebay for £11 posted.

[retrogeezer]

The ties will stretch and shift a bit RG. Good result though, same as my 214!

I'll just carry spares with me!! I reckon I'll get those screw remains out anyway.

[Station]

I say cable ties will hold forever, until heat makes them brittle!

There's no 'action' on the cap, so no movement really.