kelvin2008 Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Got a 306 non turbo derv with a suspected cracked head/block as water and oil are mixing, its got a good rust free body and although its old Im thinking of putting another engine in it, now how hard is it to convert it to turbo at the same time, will the wiring need lots of mods or being as its mechanical injection will there be any difference in the looms? are the gearboxes/driveshafts the same?
kelvin2008 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Posted July 11, 2010 Nah changed it already and it still makes hot chocolate in the rad.
meggersdog Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Did you get the head skimmed ? Does it pressurize or is it just the water colour that concerns you ? If you didn't flush the system completely you will still get oil residue in the header tank.I've found DAZ is great for cleaning out the water system.Just pour a cup full in run for a day or so and flush.
kelvin2008 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Posted July 11, 2010 didnt get the head skimmed, just checked it with a straight edge across it with feeler gauges and cleaned it up with very fine wet n dry on a glass plate (thanks to mark evans and a car is born for that one). It is pressurising as I can see bubbles in the "coolant". I did flush it through and the amount of oil getting into the coolant suggest to me a crack somewhere as the "coolant" has the consistency of a chocolat fudge flavour frijj milkshake. I dont really want to try again with a head job, I think id rather just put a whole engine in that works and put a turbo one in if its not too much trouble.
Father Ted Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 On the BX its a straight swap I suspect the 306 wont be a lot different - there is a couple of extra warning lights on the Turbo lump, but you can live without them. Just dont try to "turbo" an NA motor. It wont like it.
meggersdog Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Take the engine and 'box out as one unit.Fit your 'box to the turbo engine , change the exhaust downpipe as the N/A one will be longer and when the whole lot is about half way in the engine bay attach the bottom hose to the waterpump (makes it easier as there isn't much room at the back of a turbo engine).You will need the intercooler and pipework that sits on top too.Without it those TD's chuck out black smoke.
meggersdog Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Oh I forgot to ask.Does your engine have an oil cooler ? It's sandwiched between the filter and engine block with two coolant hoses on it. Oil pressure is far greater than water pressure and if the oil cooler is cracked oil is forced into the water system.If so remove the coolant hoses and join them together with a tube then run the engine.You will have oil gushing out of the exposed pipes if it's cracked.
kelvin2008 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Posted July 12, 2010 Yep, bypassed the oil cooler, that was the first thing I tried. I really did think that was the problem at first even bought another off ebay.
Pete-M Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Has it by any chance done around 240k miles? They seem to be spot on for the first 180k, which is when they seem to pop their first head gasket. If they don't pop the gasket at 180k they seem to crack the head at 240k. Shame really, great otherwise.
kelvin2008 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Posted July 12, 2010 225K so pretty much on the mark although previous owner did say its had an engine before he got it which was over 10 years ago and he paid £400 for a head gasket job 8 years ago. How much is a pressure test on a head these days and what do they check for? if it passes this test is it definately a good head? its an oval port head which I believe is similar to a turbo head so if it passes the test would be a useful spare if necessary.
Station Posted July 14, 2010 Posted July 14, 2010 I've got the Hayne's Peugeot diesel engine book. I'm hoping it'll come in handy one day.
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