Hyundai Getz 1.5CRDi - 290723 Running Report

[tooSavvy]

On 20/08/2023 at 08:56, tom13 said:

Love this thing. 

+1 🥰

[ruffgeezer]

Forgot to mention, I fitted remote looking to it the other day.   

Take one chingrish manual and one Hyundai wiring diagram.  

If you look closely at the Hyundai diagram,  you might see that the driver's door does not have a motor in it, only a selection of switches which signal the other door motors when to open.

For this reason,  the remote locking install is a fair bit simpler,  it will just be a stand alone system that unlocks the drivers door, relying on the car's original central locking to open the rest of them. 

This is what a £25 locking kit from amazon looks like, 4 actuators and a control module.

The installation manual is crap,  which did leave to me having to alter the wiring later on,  I'm not sure what the extra 2 wires to the master actuator are - they aren't connected on mine and it still works,  likewise the other brown and white wires from the control box have ended up unused too.

First port of call is to remove the door card, which is held on by several screws around the edge, including two hidden under plastic caps.  Then I used a plastic trim tool to release the trim clips by working around the perimeter of the door card.

Also the door mirror trim needs to be popped off:

The door panel and the mirror trim have an abundance of these white trim clips.

The interior door handle has one screw removed and then the assembly is slid forward to release it, allowing access to remove the linkages,  one for opening the door and one for the locking mechanism. 

 

Onwards with the boring bit, running the cable to the door.  nb, ignore the wiring colours here - the schematics aren't all that clear and I should have used the common wires that also should feed the other actuators on the full system. 

Steps here:

● Removing the rubber boot and the door wiring plug from the A pillar.

● Undoing the lower dash trim, end panel and fuse box bolts to aid access.

 

● Feeding the loom up through the A pillar and, after using an awl to expand a trio of redundant holes, pushing them through both sides of the door multiplug. 

Using a wire rod, I fed the 3 cables through the rubber boot with the rest of the door loom:

Then it was time to carefully strip back the door membrane - this keeps rain water out of the cabin so it's important to try and keep it as intact as possible.   This one is attached with butyl, a soft and very sticky black sealant, which I cut through with a razor blade.  This will re-stick once I'm finished as it doesn't set.

A closer look at the workings of the door - for clarity I have marked what each rod does, and the position of the locking rod when locked and unlocked.

 

[ruffgeezer]

An overview of the door with the membrane peeled back:

This is the actuator linkage connector,  it attaches to the car's existing locking rod, I've thread locked the screws and the channel in which the locking rod will run.

The master actuator will need fitting into the door,  i tucked it between the inner door skin and the window runner,  it is important to ensure the wiring is tucked well away from the operating of the window.

The rod bent to shape and attached to the original locking rod from the interior door handle.

I extended the wires to the actuator,  I heartily recommend the Lidl battery soldering iron,  up to temperature in less than a minute and plenty of charge for the job in hand.

 

Here you can see the actuator mounted in the depths of the door,  from outside the inner skin, you can just see the heads of the 2 screws used to mount it.

I've used blue insulation tape throughout so as to show clearly where all the new cabling has been run.

I used a multimeter to find a fuse with a permanent live and installed a fuse bypass to run the locking kit alongside it.  It's the black lump in the center of the fuse box in the above picture. 

I used the framework of the dash as an earthing point.

After testing the system, it was a case of putting the membrane, trims and fusebox back on, ensure wiring was neatly tied away.

 

[tooSavvy]

😮... Glad mine is 'Klunk Klik'

Ace 'tech' 👍

🚙💨

[ruffgeezer]

This is still providing sterling service to and from work, but is now perilously close to being due a service.  There is a light rattle from the front which I think is either top mounts or shock absorbers as I cannot find any play elsewhere.

The front Toyo tyres are losing their extreme edges, so either they have been under inflated, the tracking is slightly off or it's because they are Toyos which are softer than an alcoholic's stool sample.

I'm impressed with the space in one of these as I've collected a full set of wheels for the Audi this week, swiftly followed by a full set of winter tyres,  when there's no snow this year, you can thank me!

I've subconciously channeled @wuvvum as I too fitted some bigger tooters to the little Getz,  although I got a pair of dual tone horns for mine from a Chrysler Voyager in the scrapyard.

[tooSavvy]

..... aye, TARDIS like TBH 🙃