transfer Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 Mercedes engines with 2 valves/cyl and a Bosch inline pump run on 100% veg oil no bother. PSA XUDs with rotary Bosch pump like the stuff, so do the VAG diesels - including the Bosch VP37 pumped TDis - the 90 and 110hp ones. Heat exchanger from an old boiler required on all to improve the running, with 10% diesel and a drop of petrol, more when it's cold, and they love it. Filter down to 1 micron and make sure it's dry, so needs to be clear and sparkly ideally. Invest in £3-400 worth of equipment in your shed and get searching out the lovely stuff!My Golf goes much better on it than dino (which is meant to be 1/3 additives, 2/3 diesel anyway.) It's pure oil, unlike pump diesel. Came down from Scotland at a steady 100 a couple of months ago, and 43mpg. Best bit is speeding past the tax stations, watching everyone mindlessly sending money to Gordy Broon and his fellow thieves.
garbaldy Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I'm not sure if diesel sold in the UK has any anti-waxing properties, plenty of diesels broke down when it was down to almost -30 here.In january i ordered 600 litres off derv for work and they asked if i wanted winter diesel, not sure if that means with additives but thats what i thought it meant Older diesels will run fine on a fairly weak petrol/diesel mix, anything strong (more than 30/70) and I think you'll be losing vital lubrication. I've recycled my own used engine oil into fuel and it's pretty grim stuff, it turns the in-car filter black, causes a lot of smoke and must coke up the injectors because of all the contaminates.i remember reading a vw caddy handbook for a 16 diesel and it addvised to add a gallon off petrol per tank duering winter.as for useing waste engine oil i wouldnt waste my time as it contains metal fileings and ive seen two damaged oil pumps on chainsaws due to waste engine oil.
Milford Cubicle Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 as for useing waste engine oil i wouldnt waste my time as it contains metal fileings and ive seen two damaged oil pumps on chainsaws due to waste engine oil.The filters on chainsaws are rather wide-open mesh efforts though, not the thorough 5-10 micron filters you get in cars.The engine oil I put in my 405's fuel tank was pre-filtered to 1micron.
garbaldy Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 as for useing waste engine oil i wouldnt waste my time as it contains metal fileings and ive seen two damaged oil pumps on chainsaws due to waste engine oil.The filters on chainsaws are rather wide-open mesh efforts though, not the thorough 5-10 micron filters you get in cars.The engine oil I put in my 405's fuel tank was pre-filtered to 1micron.yeh but i still wouldnt take the chance im far ower cautiouse for my own good
transfer Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 as for useing waste engine oil i wouldnt waste my time as it contains metal fileings and ive seen two damaged oil pumps on chainsaws due to waste engine oil.The filters on chainsaws are rather wide-open mesh efforts though, not the thorough 5-10 micron filters you get in cars.The engine oil I put in my 405's fuel tank was pre-filtered to 1micron.Aye, but the nastiest stuff isn't filtered out. Engine oil, besides the heavy metals and other bits which give you cancer, has liquid additives which are, amongst other things, designed to stop the oil from burning.See http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=16457&page=2 and http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=14800&page=1#pid157181
Alpineandy Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 Slightly off topic question here;Does veg oil have a positive effect/no effect/negative effect on the emissions, as I've got an MOT coming in the not too distant future and need to know if I should run this tank of 25-30% mix out and replace it with 100% of the taxed stuff
messerschmitt owner Posted April 3, 2010 Author Posted April 3, 2010 Positive effect from what I've read.I'd agree with milf - it runs cleaner and more smoothly.
Barry Cade Posted April 4, 2010 Posted April 4, 2010 My 190d does 0.9% on veg, and 1.7% on Diesel..(Limit is 2.5% for non turbo) I check it regularly on our emissions tester. Runs better on the Veg too!
Alpineandy Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 My 190d does 0.9% on veg, and 1.7% on Diesel..(Limit is 2.5% for non turbo) I check it regularly on our emissions tester. Runs better on the Veg too!That sounds like a useful bit of info.Cheers
j-j Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 Runs cleaner dunnit.Actually, there was one side effect of running the old SVO in the Xantia and that was that sometimes the warning light for 'moisture in fuel filter' would come on in the morning. It is simply a conductivity sensor in the fuel filter housing - maybe veg oil is much more conductive than diesel when cold? Hardly a problem and I learned to ignore it as it always went out after about a mile.
transfer Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 Those running single tanked systems - ie starting on veg oil instead of from a small secondary tank of dieseasel - risk cooking some of the oil in the first few seconds or minutes of running, instead of burning it all. TDis can do this when idling even when hot. This risks gumming up the piston rings, which then gets everything into a viscious circle until the engine dies. Mercedes engines appear prone to this - but only the 4 valve/cyl ones. Anyone running on veg needs to look out for the signs - poorer starting, loss of power, pressured cambox/rocker cover. Those who have suffered have found a cure if caught before the engine croaks - water injection. A spray of water upwind of the engine (but downwind of the turbo, if fitted) acts as a steam cleaner and restores compression. Much easier than a rebuild!
Milford Cubicle Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Those running single tanked systems - ie starting on veg oil instead of from a small secondary tank of dieseasel - risk cooking some of the oil in the first few seconds or minutes of running, instead of burning it all. TDis can do this when idling even when hot. This risks gumming up the piston rings, which then gets everything into a viscious circle until the engine dies. Also, engine oil polymerisation, where unburnt vegetable oil makes its way through the cylinder walls and contaminates the sump.
transfer Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Aye, this polymerisation (or turning to semi-solid) is part of the viscious circle - it's a race between sticking rings and damaged lube as to which brings the final blow. Recommended to keep a close eye on the oil to check for any extra stickiness developing (in which case change the oil fast!) otherwise change at half the suggested interval to be on the safe side.
Alpineandy Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 I don't think I'll be running the R5 on more than 30% cooking fat, so hopefully the diesel will stop that happening.
Alpineandy Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 Has anyone else used Millers Diesel PowerPlus diesel additive?I'm using it on the R5GTD (175k miles) and although it still smokes on startup, this stuff has stopped it smoking anywhere near as much after 5mins running.I guess I'm the only one then......
Milford Cubicle Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 I'm of the firm belief that fuel additives are expensive snake oil.
Barry Cade Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 I'm of the firm belief that fuel additives are expensive snake oil.seconded.Apart from 2 stroke in a 2 stroke though!
transfer Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 I'm of the firm belief that fuel additives are expensive snake oil.All forecout fuel is full of additives to make the stuff burn ok and try and keep your engine clean/lubricated. With veg there's no need for that.
Barry Cade Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 Can you still get peanut oil? I'd love to try it!
Barry Cade Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 Has anyone else used Millers Diesel PowerPlus diesel additive?I'm using it on the R5GTD (175k miles) and although it still smokes on startup, this stuff has stopped it smoking anywhere near as much after 5mins running.I guess I'm the only one then......Quite topical.. Found this on the Mercedes forum... Hmmmm. 1000 miles before Millers and 1000 miles afterCar: 2004 Audi A2 1.4 TDi (75PS) 60k milesSorry for not being a MB, but hopefully it's still of interest to some.Fill-ups before Millers:300 miles – 71.8 mpg (temp. ~5C)295 miles – 72.5 mpg (temp. ~5C)310 miles – 76.2 mpg (temp. ~15C)Fill-ups after Millers:300 miles – 66.5 mpg (temp. ~10C)300 miles – 68.2 mpg (temp. ~10C)440 miles – 66.7 mpg (temp. ~15C)The figures aren’t quite what I was expecting. But I’m now going to drive a 1000 miles without Millers to see what happens next.
Alpineandy Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I'm not using it for it's 'power' or 'economy' promises, but purely because it does stop the car smoking.A couple of years back it smoked badly on startup and although it reduced when warm, it was still an MOT fail (according to my MOT tester aquaintence). So I used this stuff and it stopped smoking when warm. I must say that it does feel slightly 'crisper' when the Right hand pedal is pushed but I couldn't honestly say it's more or less powerful- that word again. I really haven't notices whether it's more economical or not.But I'm certain it reduced the smoking............
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now