Renault shite help needed pls.

[mattblack]

Right, hoping someone can shed some light on a problem Iv'e got with my shitey 1996 Megane 1.4 RN. Over the last few months it’s had a habit of sometimes cutting out when slowing down or pulling up at a junction. It would always restart again straight away, and it was usually at the start of a journey, although it did it once on a hot day after I’d done a couple of miles, on that occasion it took several attempts to restart, it would start and then die again. The other day it cut out in the ‘usual’ place a few hundred yards from home, and was difficult to restart again, on that occasion it was raining heavily and had been the previous day, so as you can see there didn’t seem to be a pattern. I drove back home, if I remember correctly the engine management light was flashing. After that I checked the 30 amp fuse in the fusebox beside the battery which covers the injection system, connections were all ok, I also cleaned the crank position sensor. It was ok for a few weeks, then on Sunday, driving along a country road at about 50 mph, it cut out dead and wouldn’t restart. The AA man suspected the coil or crank position sensor and towed me home. The next day I checked the coil, Haynes manual give 1.5 ohms for the primary windings, I was getting 3-point-something, so I bought a new coil… still no start, tried another coil HT lead, checked the distributor cap and rotor arm. So I bought a new crank posision sensor, still no start. Checked I was getting 12V to the coil. I then decide to check the injection fuse again, to get at it you have to remove the battery. When I reconected the battery, I heard 2 ‘beeps’… turned the key and it fired up straight away. Now when it wouldn’t start it was getting no spark and no fuel (plugs were dry) and now the imobiliser light on the dash comes on with the ignition, and goes out with the airbag and engine management lights, but doesn’t come on when you take the key out. Could it be an imobiliser fault? I would have thought there would be some kind of fail safe, so if the was a problem, it didn’t just cut the engine if it was already running?Cheers!

[Rocket88]

You may have cured the problem [ and being a modern Renault, the electrics are fuggin awful] by disconnecting/reconnecting battery. It does sound like an immobiliser issue, if it's running ok now, I'd leave it.

[VWPowered]

you tried disconnecting the battery and ECU, maybe its got a virus, on another note was driving behind a new C3 which had no brakes lights they just kinda flickered, abit dangerous that like

[pogweasel]

on another note was driving behind a new C3 which had no brakes lights they just kinda flickered, abit dangerous that like

Hmm, I assume tight-ass PSA bits sharing has meant the C3 has inherited the XPicasso's brake light issues. One of the reasons I wanted shot of our Picasso was that it would eat a brake-light switch every six weeks or so. You can have all the NCAP stars you like, but that counts for shit when a 38-tonner rams into the car with your kids in because the brake lights have gone on strike yet again.

[mattblack]

AARRRGGG!Did about 12-13 miles last night, perfect... started it this morning, perfect...backed onto the road and the fucking thing died and wouldn't restart, AA man spent about 2 hours on it... he fitted a couple of new fuses in the fuse box next to the battery (one was badly corroded), replaced a blown 5 amp fuse in the fusebox inside the car that covers the injection system and generaly checked things out... still no go. He seemed to think that the ECU is not powering up, either through a fault in the ECU itself, or the main relay built into the fusebox (athough the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual seems to indicate that this is nothing to do with the ECU). Tried both keys that I've got in case the immobiliser wasn't reading one of them. The ECU light on the dash doesn't come on now either... ECUs are matched to the car, so even if I could find one in a scrappy it would be no good.Looks like the crusher beckons, TBH... annoying as it passed it's MOT a couple of weeks ago, and the old one hasn't even expired yet. And I taxed it the other day, ready for the end of this month, as well...GRRRR! (unless of course some kind soul wants to take it off my hands for a few beer tokens??)

[andrew e]

The bloke I'm at work with now had the same thing on Scenic. Sorted by finding the feed wire to the ECU, and splicing a (fused!) feed from the battery. Might have been red & white wire but it cured it whatever. There seemed to be a untraceable cable break in the ECU feed wire.

[Albert Ross]

Register it for scrappage, then a week after bringing home the new car, take it back as unsuitable due to really uncomfortable driving/sitting position......ask for your old car back.....oh.....it's been squashed......here's some money for you!!!!!!!!!

[mattblack]

For fuck's sake, this is getting silly...Went out to it this morning, thought I would check the feeds to the ECU. Checked the permenant live feed... OK. switched on the ignition, checked the ignition feed... OK. Suddenly the stepper motor burst into life, I turned the key and it started, and the ECU and immobiliser lights are working as they should.. At least I've got it off the road now, left it running for a bit, swithed off, fired back up straight away... I've boshed it up on that hub of shite buying and selling that is the notice board in our local Co-op now, advertised as 'needs attention...'