Franken-goona

[Guest Hooli]

For £2 I thought I might as well, saves it running even worse for a few days when I end up needing to order one.

[Guest Hooli]

Right mixed news...

 

The gasket was the wrong one, it was one of the four for the joint between the plastic manifold & the metal bit. The good news is one of these was fucked, so I did need it after all. Fucked one on the left.

 

 

Cleaned the throttle body, it was filthy with a big ridge of carbon around the idle position -

 

 

Then I noticed the bit of the intake track that hangs down the back of the engine was full of oil -

 

 

Got about 200ml out. So I washed it out with degreaser as I figured once the exhaust got hot (directly under this) all the engine would get to breathe at times was masses of oil fumes.

 

Random pic with some bits missing -

 

 

End result - sorted!

 

Runs perfectly now, rather than cutting out or shuddering for several seconds after lifting off the throttle it drops back smoothly to idle with no drop in revs at all. Good fix for £2 & about a hours work I'd say.

 

Just leaves making the passenger window work & maybe regassing the aircon (kinda works but isn't very cold) to have everything I need working on the car working.

 

Oh & finally, on a more AS style fix - I bent the blips a bit to hold the plastic cover on the engine & cured a rattle.

[SiC]

Awesome.

 

Was that gasket damaged by removal, or already damaged? Just wondered if it was a contributing factor to the poor running.

[Guest Hooli]

Already damaged. It lifted straight up with a tug on the manifold, so nothing went under that to bugger it. Plus it was bent outwards so I guess whoever fitted the manifold last just clamped the end bolt right up rather than torquing down properly, that would also explain why the breather seal on the cam cover just near the throttle body appeared to be leaking slightly.

 

Never know, it might get to higher than the normal 37ish mpg on the trip-o-lie-o-computer, 37 on there works out to a real 34 - I checked.

 

Any idea if oil in the intake track is common there? I can't really see how it got in as the breather is the other side of the throttle body.

[Guest Hooli]

Oh & thanks to this job I've found a profile pic

[SiC]

Not sure on these (some of the mechanics on here may know), but I know my partners Clio 1.2 16v many moons ago used to do similar and did it from 20k to a good 60k before we sold it.

[Guest Hooli]

Just realised I was talking crap earlier, the crankcase breather vents into the section that was full of oil. So that's where the oil got in from, the question is why. If it does it again then I'll actually care about the why.

[Guest Hooli]

Anyone know what this warning light means?

 

 

Seems to be saying no heartbeat or glow plugs, not surprising on a machine that runs on petrol...

 

Fucking pile of shit is broken again. Got no throttle control & the engine sits at 2/2.5k rpm on it's own. Seen it once before when I forgot to plug the throttle body back in, but I've checked that. My first guess is the throttle pedal due to being below the ECU that died from water damage.

 

Bloody fucked off with this car now, it's brokedown four times in one tank of fuel ffs!

[SiC]

Engine management error.

 

Two engine management lights. That one and the standard EML. The standard EML only comes on with emission faults.

 

You need a Renault specific code reader, not generic, to read the code.

 

It is a known thing for the wiring under the battery box to become damaged, so the ECU looses contact with the throttle body.

 

See: http://autoshite.com/topic/22475-renault-laguna-y-reg-but-why-reg/?p=979929

[Guest Hooli]

Sounds like it could be that cheers. I don't recall any chaffed wires when I did that ECU, but I wasn't really looking.

[Guest Hooli]

Turned out to be a tiny bit of dirt in one of the ECU plugs under the battery, at least I think it was. Odd as I made damn sure they were clean when I put the ECU last week.

 

Of course, now something else has broke... the fuel gauge cycles from empty to correct & back every min or so. So my plan is to ignore it as I'm bloody sick of fixing this pile of turd currently.

[SiC]

Haha! It really wants to try your patience.

 

As long it works occasionally, it might be worth finding out how many miles you can do to a tank. So when it does fail, you can track fuel level using milage.

[SiC]

Not near any wiring diagrams, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the fuel warning light is a separate sensor and circuit.

 

So that shouldn't fail. I think...

[Guest Hooli]

Haha! It really wants to try your patience.

 

As long it works occasionally, it might be worth finding out how many miles you can do to a tank. So when it does fail, you can track fuel level using milage.

 

About 480... Already checked

 

 

Fixed the fuel gauge, I waggled the connectors beside the battery (big'uns under the air intake) & it came back.

 

I forget what you said earlier, will a cheapo code reader clear the engine light I got when it was running shite? I think you said not.

[SiC]

Do you have an Android based phone?

[Guest Hooli]

Yup...

[SiC]

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ohnodiag.renscan

 

And a ELM327 v1.5 adapter. It's important its not a v2.1 - Chinese cheapen out on them and they don't work properly - plus often sellers miss-label v1.5 that are the cheap chinese v2.1.

 

A user has reported that this one works fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EiioX-ELM327-Interface-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B0098T6FZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1461955115&sr=8-2&keywords=ELM327

 

PM me your email address and I'll add you as a test user, so you can get it free.

[Guest Hooli]

Ahh cool cheers.

 

Bloody thing has broken again this morning, same as two days ago - what fun it is rolling along a motorway at 40-45mph limping it to work.

[Jazoli]

Torch the thing and buy a reliable Japanese car

[Guest Hooli]

I had a jap car once, broke down a lot....

Not quite this much, but a lot.

 

Nice '05 MG summink at the local garage for £650.... If I could get the bike sorted I'd go carless again for 4-5months, just need time & £500 of parts.

[Jazoli]

I had a jap car once, broke down a lot....

Not quite this much, but a lot.

 

Nice '05 MG summink at the local garage for £650.... If I could get the bike sorted I'd go carless again for 4-5months, just need time & £500 of parts.

Ah yes the Subaru thing, didn't realise you had bike issues, you've done well with it considering

[Guest Hooli]

It's nowt unexpected at the mileage, just needs -

 

Stanctons, steering stem, bottom yoke (due to stripped threads) and a fuel filter as it won't pass 1/2 throttle or revs. Oh & five out of the eight bolts holding the cam cover down need rethreading.

[Guest Hooli]

Goona fixed itself by being ignored all day. I wonder if it'll settle down after all the connections got disturbed?

[Guest Hooli]

Not broken again yet, will have to buy it fuel today....

[HH-R]

Good old Renault, needing not one but two malfunction lights!

[Guest Hooli]

Beginning to think it's become possessed.

 

Not only has it fixed the throttle problem itself last friday, this morning the other fault light has gone out. I've checked, it's not a faulty bulb either. I'll remain unimpressed until it fixes it's own leaks, aircon, NSF window & dents.

 

How do you say Christine in french?

[JohnDeere]

For amusement value, I had a quick look at the Goona 2 on the "Honest" John site. Some choice picks:

 

Only 87% breakdown free (same as Alfa 156)

Optimistic?

 

Joint Second Bottom (to Espace) in 2002 Which reliability survey

 

And my favourite...

ISOFIX rear seat attachments are in the wrong location and had to be recalled to resolve. Essentially they forgot to include the depth of the seat in the drawings therefore the hang points are about 4-6 inches too low in the seat. 

[Guest Hooli]

Now you know why they are so loved on here.

[Magnificent Rustbucket]

Torch the thing and buy a reliable Japanese car

 

 

Torch the thing and buy a reliable Jag?

[Guest Hooli]

I do need another Jag, wish I hadn't murdered my XJ40.