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Reliant Rialto


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Posted

Took the Reliant out for a long run yesterday as it was a dry ish day for a change. Temp guage started to rise so pulled over for a look. Coolant was spraying out from the end of the heater valve. If i shut the valve off it became a slower flow so went for that option, Went for a walk for a while and came back, topped up with the bottle i keep in the boot and took it easy home. Now i need to get a new valve for a cheapish price, they are expensive!

Posted

I thought about doing that, but i just bought a new heater cable last year at £20 and don't want to waste it  :-D

Chap i ordered one from says that they do fail from time to time. Something else to keep an eye on. Be interesting to see how it works when its off. I guess there is a rubber but in it that perishes due to age and that's what causes the leak.

Posted

It did on the way home as i have the valve shut to stop the leaking. Got up to temp very quickly but never over mid way.

Posted

Bought and fitted a new heater valve last night. Went fine, tested and no leaks. This morning not good. Was waiting at the lights and lots of steam. Pulled over and coolant was coming out of an area around the nut at the bottom of the valve. All over the electrics, great. Stopped at a carpark near work to have a look and i really cant see why its happening. There does appear to be a small crack in the matrix plastic cover but the valve is tight not a lose fit and i was very careful in fitting. Need to see what to do to get home later.

Posted

Just ordered a new O ring for the valve as i used the original when fitting. Just need to try and get it gone now later on. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Got it home, needed a lot of coolant. Engine sounds really bad now a knocking sound from it. Need to get the Kia fix I think I guess thats going to be cheaper than fixing this :(

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Had some time in the sun (big yellow thing in sky not the newpaper) this weekend so set about looking at the old Rialto. I had ordered a new O ring seal for the heater box to valve and this fixed the leak. Topped up the coolant and back filled the pipe to the heater valve until water came out the valve so no airlock.

 

Checked oil level and it was a little low, topped it up and started it up. Sounds ok and no signs of water loss to took it for a little run. Heater working well* so all seems good. Not sure why there has been a drop in oil, something to keep an eye on.

 

Treated it to a polish with some Autoglym polish and a wax with Autosmart, Even dressed the tyres coz i am a detailer :)

Posted

Fix one thing another thing acts up  :-D

When starting in the morning you turn the key and rather than starting straight away it hesitates a little then starts. Its like the battery is low but the volt meter reads fine. Think i will take it out and charge it up as it has been sitting for a bit. Other than that in thinking sticking starter maybe?

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Clutch has gone this morning. Guess its just the cable as the clutch pedal is lose and moves up and down easily. Need to have a look, what are these like to change? Any tips from the Reliant experts?

Posted

From what I've seen they are quite easy. If I remember right its only a short cable and just unhooks.

Posted

Cheers, need to have a good look tonight. Get some wd40 on the bolts as i guess they will be a bit rusty.

Posted

It may not be the cable - the fork that holds the release bearing can be attached with a couple of roll pins which can break giving the same symptoms.

 

fork_zpsglsnbubc.jpg

 

Many moons ago, A clutch kit from Reliant would not only have the cover, friction plate and release bearing, but also these roll pins and 6 socket headed bolts. I can't remember what size they are (Dan'll know) but some folk shoved split pins through the middle of them to add a bit of beef. (In the case of the picture, looks like someone got the hump and blezzed on a bit of weld)

 

 

 

 

Then again, it might just be the cable...

  • Like 1
Posted

Cheers. i guess from a quick look i should tell if the cable has snapped or if its worse? So hope its the cable.

Posted

have a look under the car,the clutch lever on the box should look like this: /

if when you push it forwards it is going towards the starter motor then the rollpins have snapped.

 

If its the cable then its fairly easy to change,the rivets holding the plate under the footwell can be an arse as usually the fibreglass has worn so progressively larger self tappers get used.

The most important thing is to make sure the return spring is present,or you will wear the carbon bearing in weeks.

Posted

Cheers Dan, spring is on had to replace that just before Christmas as it broke. Will get a look when i get home.

When you say push it do you mean the car or the leaver?

Posted

the lever,if its just the cable it will look like: /  ie pointing away from the engine,if you can push it so that it goes almost at a right angle against the engine then the roll pins have gone

Posted

What's the verdict then? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

YES, its the cable! Seems to have snapped at the end near the metal part. Looks very rusty so i will wd40 it up over a few days and get one ordered. Might as well get the wheel bearing fixed at the same time too,

  • Like 2
Posted

Fancy this?

 

The owner wants around £200 for it, no previous keepers on the v5. Someone should save it from being used as a tacky advertising car... It's at our unit in Cowdenbeath.

21074324411_b24dcda685_k.jpg

 

Sorry to jump in, but just spotted this one. FOAD - hope the cavalier in the background lived to see another day? Gsis getting rare now...

Posted

/\ wonder what happened to that one. Still no mot so might still be there.

Posted

have a look under the car,the clutch lever on the box should look like this: /

if when you push it forwards it is going towards the starter motor then the rollpins have snapped.

 

If its the cable then its fairly easy to change,the rivets holding the plate under the footwell can be an arse as usually the fibreglass has worn so progressively larger self tappers get used.

The most important thing is to make sure the return spring is present,or you will wear the carbon bearing in weeks.

Just looking at ordering a new one, and i see the plate you mean. Is the original one riveted onto the car or screwed on?

Posted

Reading that, it says to me that they were riveted on and that on subsequent repairs various people come along and stick something else in the hole to fit.

Posted

/\ wonder what happened to that one. Still no mot so might still be there.

It disappeared along with the cavalier a while ago, probably got bangered as its quite a popular thing to do around here.

 

Sent from my 5022X using Tapatalk

Posted

Where do they race them, love them to bits but quite fancy watching a race sometime.

 

Dan & Eddie - can i drill the rivets out and replace with screws when i change it, i have no way to rivet it back on.

Posted

Where do they race them, love them to bits but quite fancy watching a race sometime.

 

Dan & Eddie - can i drill the rivets out and replace with screws when i change it, i have no way to rivet it back on.

The racewall at cowdenbeath or the oval at hrp/driftland in lochgelly. I've been once to the caravan bangers which was mildly entertaining but all of the other classes of races were boring.

 

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