oldcars Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Collected this, plan was to mot today but it blew a lamp bulb on the way home so was left there. Had a quick look but two of the screws holding the grill on seem to have seized. Handy this needs to come off to see why is up with the headlamp bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 No it doesn't.... Just reach up from underneath the body infact the grill provides no access to the headlight bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 I remember when my headlamp blew in my robin and it was snowing. A slag hammer was needed to get through the snow stuck under it! oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 No it doesn't.... Just reach up from underneath the body infact the grill provides no access to the headlight bulb.On my Rialto i remove the grill, then the three screws holding bezel on the lamp, then remove it and unplug the connector from the bulb, then replace and put it all back together. Is there an easier way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 yes,reach up underneath the wing and pull the bulb holder out oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 yes,reach up underneath the wing and pull the bulb holder out Cheers, that should make things a bit easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 I actually give up. Reason(s) for failureParking brake lever has no reserve travel (3.1.6b)Brake cable has wires broken and is significantly weakened (3.5.1b) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 need a new handbrake cable,and it its over adjusted(due to needing replacement) ill take it off your hands oldcars and Eddie Honda 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Cable was 'almost' broken on first test, mate adjusted it.Tester yanked it on rollers, cable frayed and stretched.Needs new cable.You should be very grateful it didn't break on an hill and run into the back of a Triumph Herald like mine did. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Cable was 'almost' broken on first test, mate adjusted it.Tester yanked it on rollers, cable frayed and stretched.Needs new cable.You should be very grateful it didn't break on an hill and run into the back of a Triumph Herald like mine did.I always leave mine in gear Wish i have just got a new cable rather than getting the other one adjusted and greased. The cable is now on back order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 New cable has arrived. Might have a go at this myself. Looking at it i don't think i have to take the drums off, is this correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 correct,two clevis pins with split pins,then hardest bit is getting it off the pulley,make sure thats well greased.make sure your drums are adjusted first before adjusting the cable Eddie Honda and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 I had all the good intentions to fit this but in the cold and wet i gave up. Took it to my pals ramp and he fitted it. Gave me a chance to get the clutch adjusted better and the piviot bit greased. End result is this. Result, it has taken me long enough. MOT HistoryMileage recorded at test, parts failed or had minor problems Date tested19 February 2018 PASS Mileage38,796 miles Test locationunavailable until further notice Expiry date18 February 2019 RayMK, Saabnut, vulgalour and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Excellent! It will soon be the only one left and be worth squillions. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Put Asda fuel in this the other week as i was on fumes. Ever since its been a nightmare to start in the mornings. Ok later on in the day but churning away in the mornings. Never had this bother for years with it. Put some decent fuel in it last night and went for a longer run. Its running spot on but again hard going to start this morning. Hopefully it will get better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Now we have decent fuel in this its starting better. I think the lockring that holds the choke behind the fiberglass panel has come off, as the choke pulls the dash panel out. Going to sort this at the weekend if the snow plays ball. RayMK 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 the choke should be on the right hand side,but shouldnt pull the dash out as there is an access panel behind it thats screwed to the body,so maybe the whole panel is loose oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 the choke should be on the right hand side,but shouldnt pull the dash out as there is an access panel behind it thats screwed to the body,so maybe the whole panel is looseFrom memory when i was doing the head gasket, the gold collar that holds the choke into the dash, behind the middle access panel, was only held on by a couple of threads. In sure its that, will get a look at the weekend and pop the drivers side panel off for a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Took 4 turns of the key to get this started this morning. I think the starter was sticking, battery is fine on volt meter. Started fine after i had fueled up too. What can be done about a sticking starter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Trying twatting it with hammer and some wd40. Worked on my robin. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 My first Reliant was aluminium body, had a big cover over the engine inside the car.Pull back cover, hit starter with hammer, simple.Only 6v though so didn't spin for long. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required. Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts are worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired. Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required. Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts ar worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired. Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work.Thanks Ray, i will pop the lights on tonight and start it up. I will let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Clean Bendix and lube with graphite powder. oldcars, Eddie Honda and RayMK 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Dry lube is an alternative to graphite and anything called Turbo Lube is bound to make starting at least 300% faster*. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Clean Bendix and lube with graphite powder. .....or rub the relevant surfaces with an artist's 4b pencil. I've always done it on spark plug threads as well - less mess than copperslip and it works equally well. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Started ok last night, lights did dim when i started it up. Started this morning ok to but it was still not 100%. I will need to get a look at it. Need to dig out the haynes manual and find out where the bendix is on it, i have no idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Remove starter and Bendix is the gear that gets thrown forward when starter engaged. A shaft with cog on that engages on flywheel to turn engine over. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Cheers bub. Now i understand the bendix will be sticking hence no starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Yes, technically if the starter shaft has a fast, chunky spiral 'throw' which, on starter rotation, kicks the cog in to mesh with the flywheel - that is the Bendix device. Later starters are of the pre-engaged type i.e. the starter drive cog is pushed in to mesh with the flywheel by a meaty solenoid and lever prior to rotation. People do still refer to the lever and drive bit as a Bendix, even though it isn't. Good luck. Sounds eminently fixable but you won't have to attack it immediately as it is starting mostly ok. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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