Stripped Fred - car thoughts + fleet update

[stripped fred]

I spoke to the Jag independant guy and he went through all the problems and a plan going forward. I won't go through it now but here are my notes from the conversation...

[stripped fred]

So, the Jag man said that the fuelling is all over the place. He suspects that an injector might need replacing but he also mentioned that even though the EGR valves are blocked off and eliminated from the mapping, that they may be needed to ensure decent airflow. A new EGR valve is a few hundred. He's going to swap the injector's between cylinders to see if that changes things. There is a risk that a cylinder may be at issue, in which case the car will not get fixed, as I'm not paying to put a new engine in. He said the 2.7 diesel is generally reliable.

I'll wait to see what is needed engine wise before authorising any more work.

The metal coolant tubes are leaking. Quite a big job to replace them. Cost £450.

It needs a new ABS sensor on one side with shims, and just shims on the other, cost £100.

The gearbox fault is likely wiring and a new wire can be run through, or due to a low battery. I'm happy to leave this one for the moment.

The parking brake looks ok but may just need a software update.

So, just waiting now to see what the final bill would be. I have a limit but I would like to see it back in the road, if possible. I am prepared to sell for spares or repairs though if it gets too silly. These S types are not worth lot! There are also other cars I want to try at some point.

Updates to follow....

[RobT]

Liked for the update.  Not the cost element.  But it's a Jag after all...

[rickvw72]

Mmm. Injector would need coding only if it’s been swapped before and not added to the ECUs program. This is fairly easy to tell, the code is written on the injector itself, and the diagnostics will list what the ecu thinks it has, and you can see it on the screen. Not a massive job, the RAC etc regularly swap and code injectors at the roadside. If he changes the injectors between cylinders he’s gonna need to alter the codes so not sure where he’s going there.

Similar vibes from the shims advice? You’d only need shins to increase the air gap between the sensor and reluctor ring. This would alter the signal, not make it suddenly appear / come back.

 

[Cento16v]

If its a pre DPF 2.7 then if you blank the EGRs and leave them in place it will be fine.

I did it on my Disco 3 with the same engine, made it much less sluggish from cold and had no negative effects.

They do have form for crankshaft issues these engines, though if its quiet when running I think that can be ruled out, they're generally very vocal if there's any issues there

Edit: I see from the exhaust pipes its a pre dpf one.

They're very reliable normally!

[stripped fred]

Another update on this....

The problem swapped to the other cylinder when the injector was swapped so I gave the go ahead to buy a new injector. That was changed today and it seems to be running ok. Something about the fuel pressure being lowered on the other 5 injectors by the ECU but now all reading correctly. The reading from one EGR valve is high (35 as opposed to 5?) But it's not flagging any faults so he's going to leave these.

He's ordered the replacement metal coolant pipes so they will get done next week. Lots of coolant escaping now. The abs sensor will also be ordered. The shims are because of a build up of rust.

The other job is to get the parking brake working again, but he doesn't think that will take too much.

There's also a noisy tensioner but not too bad and he's going to try and get some grease in it as a temporary measure.

Overall it could be worse and hopefully I'll have it back next week.

[stripped fred]

I spoke to the Jag bloke today. He works on his own so he has to swap the car's about a bit. He ordered a glow plug and fitted it. There is still some smoke at start up but he says it runs well when it's warm.

He's going to have another look at the glow plugs. I might have it back to see how it goes, just waiting to hear.

I also asked if he could tell me which parking sensor is dodgy, so he's going to check the codes and met me know.

This car could go either way, working fine for a while or it could continue giving me some gip. I'm in too deep to pull out now...

[Crispian_J_Hotson]

Well it sounds like it's problems are getting dealt with and there's a few of them!

[stripped fred]

I picked the Jag up last week. I am pleased to have it back and it is fixed, sort of.

I had a long chat with the specialist before picking it up. He fixed the park brake, replaced an ABS sensor, replaced an injector, reprogrammed the ECU, replaced a long section of aluminium cooling pipe that was leaking and replaced the glow plug module.

Once up to temperature it performs well and seems to have a bit more power. It is easier to spin a wheel when pulling out of a junction. However, it does not like starting in cold weather. I will wait to see if this improves when it is warmer.

I agreed to take it back and run it for a while. I was previously using it for the occasional short journey so the plan is to take it on some longer runs and get it fully up to temperature. There is also some moly slip fuel additive in there, which I am hoping will help. The specialist does not want to change the glow plugs unless needed due to the risk of causing more problems. Also, this would mean spending more money and the bill is already the wring side of £1k.

It needs a minute or two before setting off, there's still a bit of smoke but it clears quicker and, once underway, it goes well. I have noticed the engine is a bit noisier when revved, with a 'tinkly' sound, which I assume is the injectors, but I don't mind this.

I have a lumpy cold start video but I don't know how to attach it.

When it is earned up it takes an extra second it two to catch, compared with when it was running well, but it then starts ok. I wonder if there's still a leaky injector in there?

I drove an 80 mile round trip today. I think economy is maybe up a touch and it pulled well and behaved itself. Disengaging the DSC on a mini roundabout is quite fun as you can hear the rear tyres start to sing.

My intention is to maintain it and fix any obvious problems, but not worry about the small things...

[stripped fred]

So, the jaguar has been fixed and is running well. It seems the problem was a lack of use and lots of short journeys over lockdown. I drove it to London and back a few weeks ago. 200 miles in total. It's been running well every since and no smoke.

I'm enjoying driving it now and I even gave it a wash and interior spruce up last week. Just completed a trip to Herefore and back. I will be using it a lot more regularly from now on as more miles to be travelled for work. I plan to give it a polish as I have never done this and the paintwork is pretty mint. It also needs an oil change.

Hopefully i will get some trouble free miles out of it now...

[stripped fred]

I've not updated this for a while so will have missed quite a bit. Latest car is a 2001 Audi TT roadster from my wife's friend. 

It was standing for a couple of years. It's original with no mods 83k miles. Some stamps in the book and I was told the cambelt has been changed but no real proof of this. Has leather, heated seats, blaupunkt stereo and the roof works well. I paid £1k and will most likely spend double that on getting it right but I'm enjoying the process and learning as I go. I like that there are lots of parts available and helpful YouTube videos. I've also got a Chinese version of VCDS which has helped with diagnosing faults.

It failed the MOT on corroded brake pipes, a wiper, an anti roll bar link, and a tyre. There are still some advisories but nothing too worrying. The corrosion is mostly to the suspension arms.

There was a misfire under load and it needed a service. So far I've:

Replaced a tyre and wiper blade for MOT. The garage did the other items.

Changed oil and filter

Changed the thermostat and coolant (it wasn't getting much above 70 degrees)

New used maf and coil packs.

New spark plugs

Fitted a panel air filter in original housing

To do:

Removed arch liners and clear out mud and leaves.

Sill covers have some corrosion so treat rust

New bushes for suspension.

New springs and dampers (future work)

Replaced door mirror switch as not working (have a used item)

Clear roof drains (need to work out how to do this)

Change haldex and gearbox oil

Check oil pick up pipe in sump

Investigate minor oil leak

I've done about 800 miles in it so far. It now drives better and pulls well. It's quite ferocious when pressing on. I'm not used to a turbo car and it involves regular gear changing. I'm a big fan of the quattro which you can feel when cornering. Quite different from my S type with it's auto box and softer suspension. I plan to keep it fairly standard and original ride height but remove some of the slack in the bushes.

I didn't think I'd fall for a TT as I didn't like the image when they first came out but it's actually a lot of fun. I'm looking forward to taking it on some longer trips in the warmer weather.

[stripped fred]

Plans for my cars, musings...

Jaguar - enjoy a bit more then maybe sell when my son needs a car as I would like to try a basic smallish car. I need to see what he could insure, is reliable, and cheap. Maybe something unpopular as he won't mind.

MR2 - long turn project and a car I will never sell. Won't start at the moment. It has always been faultless in terms of starting. I suspect it is something involving rust in the fuel system. I think I need to drop the tank and replace e the fuel filter. My two teenage sons love the car and insist on visiting it (20 miles away) and helping me try and fix it. It's more a family owner car.

Ford Focus CMax - a very practical car. I had it off my mum. It keeps on going with basic maintenance and not much care. I left the oil cap off for around 200 miles (long story) and it wasn't me driving It at the time. When It returned It smelled smokey and the oil was barely showing in the dipstick. I topped It back up and it's been fine since. It's the 1.6 petrol. There was a squeeling noise the other day and I noticed the power steering reservoir was almost empty so topped It back up and will monitor. It barely does 200 miles a month. It has a rusty wing and some marks on it and it is a bit dirty but for some reason it always looks pretty tidy and doubles as a temporary skip and a useful tip / dog car.

TT - more modern fun car. I'm enjoying replacing tired parts and gradually improving it.

Nissan Micra - I haven't spent much time on this and don't really get chance to drive it. However, I like it and it is a lot of fun. My eldest son is insured in it but he wants to do more driving lessons before we go out in it to do some practice runs. I might consider upgrading but then again I might hold onto it. It's a pre-facelift k11 and you don't see many about now and it's in good condition.

MG4 - I don't have a photo, like this..

Wife's car, keep for the two years left on the pcp and then replace with a bought car. It's. Ice in it's own way. Nicely controllable power and drives well enough with a slightly skittery ride due to the battery weight.

New car (2027) - she is not the most confident driver but ok. She only drives her car. She is insured on my car's but doesn't want to drive them. She is no longer confident with gears so she wants automatic and ideally electric again but in an SUV due to the higher seating position. She also wants it to be a bit bigger than the MG4, so you can get three in the rear. We take our grand daughter out and she's going to be in her car seat for another 8 years.

I don't see any electric suv's under say £12k  I'm thinking of buying something Korean or Japanese and keep for a while then go back to electric. She would prefer electric but as long as it's reliable and I fill it up as she's said one of the best things about driving an electric car is not having to stop at petrol stations.

 

 

[stripped fred]

My car thoughts today relate to the suspension on the TT. A good thing with this model is that amount of information available online, lots of good YouTube videos, and plentiful parts.

My 2001 model is on the original suspension. Its not terrible but there is some vagueness due to old bushes and springs and dampers. I know opinions vary on the handling of these cars but it's still not bad with the tired suspension. Freshening it up can only improve it.

I want to replace the lower wishbone bushes with an OEM suspension bush at the rear and a cookbot and smaller bush at the front.

The cookbot enables a VW Golf bush to fit, tightening up the steering response, which is lacking in these cars since they had their initial issues and VW made them less responsive and after a few accidents with the initial models, mainly at high speed. They also added the spoiler at this time.

I may buy a set of wishbones with the bushes fitted and then clean up the originals and press the bushes in myself with my son, to compare the two.

The ride height was lowered 20mm after about 2002, the same as s line models before. I could change to this spec but I don't think the suspension has that much travel to start with and I don't mind it seeming to sit high over the wheels. I plan to use it mostly as a long distance tourer with tolerable suspension that can also handle the bends.

Looking to use Bilstein or Monroe dampers.

Maybe slightly stiffer top mounts. I understand cupra r items are bitter then the softer originals.

I might fit a 16mm ARB at the rear to replace the 14mm original. This helps reduce understeer a bit. The performance bods use 21mm+.