Bear Posted February 22, 2016 Posted February 22, 2016 Epic. XJS Harlequin Edition. Skizzer, HMC, Magnificent Rustbucket and 2 others 5
Guest Breadvan72 Posted February 22, 2016 Posted February 22, 2016 The scrappy dudes that sold me the bits were sort of gentleman pikeys. Big house in Surrey, back field like a scrappy hellhole full of manky Jags, father and son middle class scrappists. They didn't do all I had asked, they knacked the bonnet cable, and the new wheel arch and bumper are not yet on the car, but the dudes' prices were cheap and cheerful. Next stop paintshop. Bear, Skizzer, brickwall and 4 others 7
Skizzer Posted February 22, 2016 Posted February 22, 2016 Paint shop? What on earth for? That's just perfect now. Bear, brickwall, Junkman and 2 others 5
Guest Breadvan72 Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 I am actually quite pissed off about the bonnet cable, as this makes the car not really usable for fast driving. I have no mechanical skills, and have lost my mobile mechanic, so as problems pile up for my collection of heaps, they are increasingly getting broken and staying broken.
Six-cylinder Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 I am actually quite pissed off about the bonnet cable, as this makes the car not really usable for fast driving. I have no mechanical skills, and have lost my mobile mechanic, so as problems pile up for my collection of heaps, they are increasingly getting broken and staying broken. When you have a collection of cars it takes quite a bit of time to organise the maintenance and repairs. I find general garages do not like our sort of work because they struggle to charge the real hours they have spent on the cars. I regularly use two local garages and one of those always has a car of mine and I just swap them over which helps not having to bother a second driver. I then have a number of specialists I use for things like the Citroens and Alfas. I am very lucky to have a retired friend who helps me out with some bodywork. So the message is build yourself a network so when you have a problem you know who to call. I understand there is a very good Jaguar specialist in Milton Keynes and if you want to give them I try I will get you the details and give you a lift home if you use them.
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 I would be annoyed by the bonnet cable - if they have broken it, they should have fixed it. They have the parts. # Six Cylinder - knowing a good specialist is an invaluable thing!
Guest Breadvan72 Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 They should have done, but they have given me a new cable. They did not tell me until I arrived to collect the car. I CBA to go back to Dorking for them to fit the cable.
Bear Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 when you have a problem you know who to call. anonymous user 1
Bear Posted February 23, 2016 Posted February 23, 2016 I am actually quite pissed off about the bonnet cable, as this makes the car not really usable for fast driving. I have no mechanical skills, and have lost my mobile mechanic, so as problems pile up for my collection of heaps, they are increasingly getting broken and staying broken. Not suitable? The bonnet floating about 8 inches above the scuttle is extra ventilation. Plus you get to watch the engine, which would be more interesting if it were somehow see-through. Junkman 1
Guest Breadvan72 Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 The boot is unopenable. Any top tipz? It locks and unlocks, but the button that is supposed to open the lid, er, doesn't.
binhoker668 Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Please. Please do not take this to the paintshop. Mechanically perfect yet with all the panache of a 1983 Metro is the look required.
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 The boot is unopenable. Any top tipz? It locks and unlocks, but the button that is supposed to open the lid, er, doesn't. Rod's dropped off inside. Oh and do paint it. An XJS is a magnificent beast and deserves to look as good as it can. DeeJay, Magnificent Rustbucket, scruff and 3 others 6
Guest Breadvan72 Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 I told Rod not to drop off, but he was up late watching Vauxhall Porn. How da fuque to open? DeeJay 1
Guest Hooli Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 She's looking good BV, since getting banned from PH I've not seen your updates. Only suggestion for the bonnet is a small mirror & try to work out what the lever should move, then ram your hand in & tear all the skin off trying to grab said wotsit.
Junkman Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Has lock sprayage with WD40 been attempted yet?If not, I'd suggest such doings.
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Look inside old boot lid to see wtf is going on.
Guest Breadvan72 Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 I don't have the old boot lid. Also, the issue is not the lock, but the button that opens the boot.
Junkman Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Yes, I understand, due to curiously enough still having a few intact brain cells, thank you.But there is the possibility of the button not working due to lack of greaserage and Winter saltage.The haunted Rover does this with disturbing frequence. Button pressage then does not result in bootlid openage, despite the lockerisation is unlockerised.Sprayage with WD40 and waitage for the duration of the finishage of a bottle of Pinot Noir usually does the trick.That's the reason why I keep neither my Pinot Noir, nor my WD40 in the boot, I have you knowerise.
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Junkman is correct - spraying with a lubricant can free up locks which are binding shut sometimes. It sounds odd - but it can work. Maybe the lubrication allows the rod to move just a tiny bit further, so freeing the lock mechanism. If that doesn't work, then the only thing left that I can think of is to drill a hole in the boot lid behind the registration plate and physically work the lock by pulling the rod with long nosed pliers etc. After you have opened the boot, paint the edge of the drilled hole to prevent it rusting, then fit a grommet in the hole before screwing the registration plate back on. You will need to know where to drill the hole of course. I will have a quick Google to see if I can find where to drill.
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xjs-x27-32/xjs-conv-trunk-stuck-39845/
Skizzer Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 I can have a look at the boot mechanism on mine if you like - although it might be different, being pre-facelift. PM/text/call me if I can help.
Guest Breadvan72 Posted March 29, 2016 Posted March 29, 2016 Boot opener still BORKED. Skizzer, there is a large rectangular button that rocks from left to right, positioned below the lip and the keyhole. The key will turn and lock the button into a fixed position, but when unlocked the buttons just moves freely, with no feeling of clickiness or springiness .
Skizzer Posted March 29, 2016 Posted March 29, 2016 Just kidding. It sounds like the same mechanism as mine - I'll investigate and try to post something more constructive. Unfortunately I'll be 200 miles away from mine for the rest of the week.
NorfolkNWeigh Posted March 29, 2016 Posted March 29, 2016 Nothing useful to suggest, but this may help others describe which bit may be at fault. Magnificent Rustbucket and Skizzer 2
Guest Breadvan72 Posted March 29, 2016 Posted March 29, 2016 Doesn't look anything like that, but thanks anyway.
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