Jump to content

320 touring's xj40 sov-Bloody battery Bollocks:( 01/02/15


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well bought - I quite like these!

cheers!tis a decent old smoker

Posted

Forgot to say that the door handle thing is pretty common. Monkey metal shite breaks somewhere inside. You can tell as the handle tends to go out of alignment sometimes. Sorry for the randomness. It's just whatever pops into my head at the time. 

  • Like 1
Posted

The line on mine seems to run up the passenger side bulkhead, and then over to the top union on the M/C- it looks a bit different to that shown in the illustration. You can see mine in the attached pics

 

 

IIRC the pipe is in two sections. One long section of pipe runs down the left hand underfloor; one shorter one which runs across the bulkhead to the right side of the car.

 

The two sections of the brake pipes join on the left hand side of the bulkhead, low down next to where the the two underfloor fuel feed and return pipes join the flexible hoses with Legris connectors

 

Part 7 on the diagram CBC9314 looks to be the one - priced at £2.87+VAT from Jaguar.

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/jaguar-xj6-xj12-parts/braking-system/hydraulic-pipes/brake-pipes-front

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/CBC9314

Posted

Forgot to say that the door handle thing is pretty common. Monkey metal shite breaks somewhere inside. You can tell as the handle tends to go out of alignment sometimes. Sorry for the randomness. It's just whatever pops into my head at the time. 

The wonky door handle thing tends to be more of a digital dash problem. On the earier cars, the handles are so crap it is more a case of when they will fail, than if.

 

The later car's door handles are much better and stronger. They don't seem to fail that often - though nothing is impossible of course! On these later cars, the problem seems to be more down to the internal mechanisms needing a squirt of lubricant to free them up - and sometimes they can be out of adjustment.

Posted

IIRC the pipe is in two sections. One long section of pipe runs down the left hand underfloor; one shorter one which runs across the bulkhead to the right side of the car.

 

The two sections of the brake pipes join on the left hand side of the bulkhead, low down next to where the the two underfloor fuel feed and return pipes join the flexible hoses with Legris connectors

 

Part 7 on the diagram CBC9314 looks to be the one - priced at £2.87+VAT from Jaguar.

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/jaguar-xj6-xj12-parts/braking-system/hydraulic-pipes/brake-pipes-front

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/CBC9314

So from that you're suggesting that the pipe is in 2 pieces-

 

piece 1 runs from MC to the LHS of the bulkhead,

Piece 2 runs from LHS of bulkhead to the rear t-piece

 

if thats the case I have a leak in piece 2- so the original part you listed at £26 PLUS VAT shoukd work, or I can make a new copper one:)

 

thanks for all the help on this- looks like it can be a relatively simple job- the clip retaining bolts came out ok earlier

Posted

The wonky door handle thing tends to be more of a digital dash problem. On the earier cars, the handles are so crap it is more a case of when they will fail, than if.

 

The later car's door handles are much better and stronger. They don't seem to fail that often - though nothing is impossible of course! On these later cars, the problem seems to be more down to the internal mechanisms needing a squirt of lubricant to free them up - and sometimes they can be out of adjustment.

the front drivers handle flaps merrily without resistance. I have a spare- just need the balls to pull the doorcard off!

Posted

So from that you're suggesting that the pipe is in 2 pieces-

 

piece 1 runs from MC to the LHS of the bulkhead,

Piece 2 runs from LHS of bulkhead to the rear t-piece

 

if thats the case I have a leak in piece 2- so the original part you listed at £26 PLUS VAT shoukd work, or I can make a new copper one:)

 

thanks for all the help on this- looks like it can be a relatively simple job- the clip retaining bolts came out ok earlier

 

 

That's right. If there is ever any uncertainty with these Jaguars, it is always worth telephoning Jaguar Classic Parts to clarify things. They're genuinely helpful - I have even had them find and replicate original blueprints and spec sheets for me in the past.

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/contact

Posted

That's right. If there is ever any uncertainty with these Jaguars, it is always worth telephoning Jaguar Classic Parts to clarify things. They're genuinely helpful - I have even had them find and replicate original blueprints and spec sheets for me in the past.

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/contact

excellent all round.

 

One last thing- are the unions the usual 11mm/14mm or are they some sort of imperial nonsense?!

 

thanks again for all the help

Posted

the front drivers handle flaps merrily without resistance. I have a spare- just need the balls to pull the doorcard off!

 

 

Removing the front doorcard is easy.

 

First, lever off the little black plastic blanking plate over the screw which holds on the chromed door handle escutcheon. Be careful with this - the cover is made of a thin plastic easy to damage.

 

With that removed, undo the screw and take off the door handle escutcheon, along with its rubber gasket.

 

Having removed the inside door handle escutcheon, (carefully!!) pull the veneer at the door handle away from the door, towards you just enough so that it clears the door pull, then slide the veneer forward towards the front of the door, freeing the two spring clips which hold it on - and the veneer will come off. It is bendy but fragile.

 

With the veneer removed, several (3?) screws are revealed. Remove these. The front door also has a plastic firtree clip holding on the front lower part of the door top. These are still available and are cheap http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/BBC7525AFWso if you break the firtree clip, it doesn't matter. They don't give in without a fight in my experience. Lever them off carefully: don't be tempted to yank them off using the door card - it can crack the substrate.

 

One more screw is located under the rubber duct bellows thing which carries warm air to the door demister vent. It is easy to miss this one!!

 

You have now removed all the fixings securing the door top. Lift the door top carefully off the door, taking care not to strain the chrome lock tab.

 

The door top is held on by a long metal U shaped aluminium channel  (the polished part of which is visible as the chrome highlight aong the window into which the runner scrapers fit) , which fits to the top of the door. It should come off without too much effort.

 

Now for the lower half of the door card.

 

First remove the leather door handle. This is secured by three long screws on the underside of the doorhandle.

 

With the doorhandle off, prise the doorcard away from the door. It is held on with several firtree clips around the lower three sides. There are none across the top.

 

The doorcard will now be off the door. Care is needed not to strain all the wires which are still attached!

 

At the front of the door card, a small rectangular plug for the speaker.

 

In the middle of the doorcard a substantial rectangular plug for the electric windows, seats and door mirrors. It is a big plug.

 

At the rear of the door a white plug for the puddle light.

  • Like 2
Posted

excellent all round.

 

One last thing- are the unions the usual 11mm/14mm or are they some sort of imperial nonsense?!

 

thanks again for all the help

 

I don't know - there seems to be a merry mix of sizes on these Jags! Someone will know on XJ40.com or Jag-lovers though (or Jaguar of course).

Posted

Correct...... it was the 88

What was the 88? The car with the broken door handle?

Posted

Yes, sorry. 1988 Sovvie. Shite door handle material. 

Posted

320, do you have 4" ish woofers on the kick panel under the rear seats? Would you like some?

 

I've been trying to hawk the last of my Jag spares from my 4.0 and 3.2 Sovs and these are the last buggers to go.

 

£10 plus whatever myherpes wants to hurl them around the country if you can make use of them. These used to fall into the 'real teeth on an ex-junkie pensioner' scale of rarenessnessness, but now I just need to get rid of them and can't face binning them.

Posted

320, do you have 4" ish woofers on the kick panel under the rear seats? Would you like some?

 

I've been trying to hawk the last of my Jag spares from my 4.0 and 3.2 Sovs and these are the last buggers to go.

 

£10 plus whatever myherpes wants to hurl them around the country if you can make use of them. These used to fall into the 'real teeth on an ex-junkie pensioner' scale of rarenessnessness, but now I just need to get rid of them and can't face binning them.

I may indeed be after them-will likely bevthe weekend before i can advise if thats ok ?

Posted

No problem at all - they are sat on my bookcase, daring me to do something about them. I haven't in over 4 years (apart from when I used them in an MR2) so I don't see any reason to start now.

 

Drop me a PM if you need/want them - I don't always get to check here that often (hence the miserable number of posts I've made).

Posted

Before you buy them, check the holes for the speakers are pressed out of the crossmember! - I seem to think that XJ40s after VIN 667829 don't have them. It is easy to check - the carpet is not a one piece moulding on the XJ40 and can be lifted individually. The one piece carpet arrived with the X300 - but on the XJ40 the carpeting is done the traditional way of a great many smaller carpets overlapping each other. They're a bit like tiny pieces of house carpet, actually!

Posted

Thanks both-will update at the weekend!

 

Hopfully lifting the carpet doesnt reveal too many horrors..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got this bugger insured today:)

 

Gave it the once over and topped up brake fluid after the brakes were bled.

 

ABS Light went out.

 

WIN

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...