Rust proofing products. Do manufacturers prey on the worried?

[gordonbennet]

I used to be a Waxoyl girl, but i've dumped him and now cuddle up to Bily Hamber, an aerosol with long flexible spouts, he gets to the parts waxoyl did eventually, but only after heating him up and thinning him down.

 

In the middle of this right now on the recently bought Outback, the other thread got me interested in Bilt Hamber, and so this is my foray with their products.

 

So far i've used the rust converter on the rear subframe, the rustiest part of the car by a long way, the rest of the motor is surprisingly good for 12 years and over100k miles.

 

That went on ok, and i've now sprayed the subfame in primer, now waiting a week for that to harden off...ideally having finished work early today i should be under it with the next stage, 2 pack mastic paint from rustmaster (wanted a hard wearing thick coat of paint over the subframe before the final Hambers waxy stuff goes on), but i've got a stinking bloody cold and coughing like i'm about to peg it, maybe i'll feel better if its sunny tomorrow.

 

Front end only needed priming and i had some other more standard primer which was overcoatable sooner so i've now used a couple of the tins of the more solid underbody Hamber wax, so feel i can start to compare between Hamber and Waxoyl for application, if not performance....i haven't used any cavity wax yet as i've going to do all the cavities when the underbody treatments are done.

 

In use the Bilt Hamber stuff is a revelation, it applies very well straight from aerosol, not one single stoppage or blockage, it smells fine too.

 

Waxoyl is definately cheaper to use, in theory, partly because you get more of the stuff on you and the driveway than you do on the car, you piss the Mrs off because you're heating fuckin great cans of the stuff on the cooker in her steamer pans and getting the shit all over the kitchen, invariably the fuckin stuff cools off before you've done the biz, so you then have to use the kitchen sink and pour gallons of boiling water over everything and try to feed that boiling water into that stupid fuckin applicator with a nail in the end to clear the first of umpteen bastard blockages.

 

Don't ever mention to me the use of waxoyls aerosols, fuck me sideways, the stuff dribbles out reminiscent of ever shrinking manhood, the fuckin aerosol nozzle blocks solid and that silly little pipe for supply is best shoved up someones arse.

 

In contrast, Hambers stuff has flowed superbly, the aerosols and extension probes coped with the stuff fine on only a reasonably warm day, i didn't bet covered in the stuff and its gone on well.

 

The revelation though is in the smell, after waxoyling (and 12 baths just to get the shit out your eyes hair arse hole foreskin and every other place it manages to get) the car is almost uninhabitable for a month and the smell doesn't go for 6 months.

 

I suppose Hamber stuff is going to be more expensive being aerosol based, my choice, but for economy in use, ease of use, and cleanliness in use, its in another league altogether.

 

If anyone wants i'll update as the job goes on, be interesting to get into the cavities..ooer mrs..see how the long probes manage the cavity wax.

[willswitchengage]

Well I've just come back from the bike MOT place, and the inspector said just spray chain lube inside the box sections. Bingo

[mat_the_cat]

I suppose Hamber stuff is going to be more expensive being aerosol based, my choice, but for economy in use, ease of use, and cleanliness in use, its in another league altogether.

 

They do the stuff in bigger containers too, but it's quite convenient to just use the aerosols - no big unwieldy gun and hose dragging everywhere.

[Lankytim]

Is that ANKOR WAX that all the dubbers use any good?