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Any mitsubishi mechanics out there?


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Posted

My wife's S reg galant 2.0 threw a hissy fit the other day and discarded the belt that drives the power steering and air con.

She nursed it back home and remarkably (for a woman) diaganosed the fault when she lifted the bonnet.One of the belts always did screech for a bit when starting from cold, but this only lasted for a few seconds.

 

I checked the belt and it was in good condition so I put it back on. The belt stayed on, however the area around the crank pulley seemed noisy, with a loud rumbling sound. She has used the car for a couple of days, however she declined to use it yesterday due to the noise getting louder.

 

On advice from a couple of old salts, I purchased a brand new item, fitted it and tensioned it. On starting the engine the belt was thrown off, I tried refitting it but the result was the same.

 

As an experiment, I completely removed the belt and then ran the engine. The rumbling sound was very evident even with no belt.

 

So it seems to be a fault with the crank pulley, or even worse, the bottom of the engine. The car has covered 73K and is in excellent condition. It has wanted for nothing, however due to it's almost non existent value it looks like the weighbridge is becoming more likely (even the pulley is a main dealer only item, factor in the cost of new timing belts and it is greater than the car's value).

 

Any body had anything similar?

Posted

Any noise difference if the engine is started and clutch depressed? - Check to see if pulley is moving in and out with clutch operation - would mean crank thrust washers worn (fairly slim but not unheard of). Other than that I would say bottom pulley is fubar.

 

Sam

Posted

The crank pulley should have a second pulley for the alternator belt - it has a rubber sealing/attaching gasket in between and this can get all old and shit and the alt pulley comes loose, with about 1mm of play (enough to dispense the belt and make a noise).

AW11 MR2's do it as well (every single one). They're quite pricey (because it costs 200 to cast a pulley and stick it to another one doesn't it?), but aftermarket 'performance' pulleys will be cheaper.

Posted

Yup, what they said.

The pulley is two parts bonded together with rubber, which after a while will perish and it will make a racket at first, leading to a complete fail. If you feel any movement in the pulley it's buggered. Yours sounds like its well fooked if its throwing the belt off. Get it changed ASAP, do not run the engine until.

Posted

The car is an auto. I have priced a pulley - £150 + vat. Factor in new belts and the cost of labour and you are looking at the thick end of £400 - I paid around £250 for the belts to be changed at 50k.

 

Unfortunately it does'nt look like it will be repaired - I am taking it to the local garage on monday so they can confirm my suspicions regarding the diagnosis before it is scrapped. Due to my wife's driving needs something more economical is needed - I would sooner put the money towards another car than spend around £400 on a car that is only just worth that. Couple in the poor fuel consumption (low - twenties), and the risk of something else going wrong after this, I would sooner bail out now.

 

Perhaps not in the true spirit of autoshite, but times are hard and my wallet is not bottomless.

Posted

Surely the cambelt part of the pulley stays in situ when the outer aux pulley is removed, So you should only need to replace that part, no more than an hours labour at least.

Posted

No need to replace all the belts. Just the pulley. Should be able to get a good secondhand one from a breakers. Doing the job is 2 hours tops, an hour or so if all goes well.

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