scaryoldcortina Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 other than having voltage and current confused, yes it's safe to say that your alt is overchargiing and has crippled the battery. I'd replace the whole thing rather than bothering with the diode pack - it sounds on its last legs anyway.
CreepingJesus Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 Sounds like the reg/rec to me. It shouldn't have burnt the big main cables, 'cos they're usually plenty big enough; but it will probly be the cause of battery death.Sadly, if the nose bearing's that much of a pig, I'd say you'd need an exchange alternator. Everything else's repairable, otherwise, which is a pity.
Richard Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 I'd bung a regulator pack in and keep running it, but I'm as tight as a duck's fanny.
Pillock Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 Yeah, the 13-14 "number" is volts not amps, and yes a constant 19v to the battery would have certainly shortened it's life. An old VW did that to me, the regulator gave up and the battery actually started bubbling acid out the top due to overvoltage.Wiring normally has enough of a safety margin built in.
scooters Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 apologies - my O grade physics was a long time ago of course its volts! anyway, I'm gona try this - as it looks like the regulator and closer inspection of the slip rings shows that the pitting isn't too bad. I'm going to try and source a new regulator - they seem pretty generic so I'll get on the phone tomorrow - it's a 100amp Bosch alternator as found in lots of 90's VAG stuff as well as Volvos and Saabs. I've had a look on the bay and can only find them in the states so I'll call the factors. I'm going to clean up the sator and slip rings with some 600 grit - screw it all back together, buy a new battery and see what happens.... this way I have a chance of fixing it for £60 - bunging in a decent rebuilt alt will double this and cash is very tight just now. The car has only done 65000 and I had a similar alternator in my 940 which had done 190k on the same unit so I think there might be some life in it yet if I give it a clean up anyway, thanks for the advice very much appreciated
scooters Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 I had a good look at the wiring and it is in pretty good nick so I reckon it is ok. These things apparantly burn out at the fuse box but the V70 is more succeptible to this - it's a stratghtforward repair with a soldering iron but is a bit of a hassel as you have to take the air box out and that's a flippin hassel. All depends on getting the alternator back in there - I've never come across so many flippin bolts - they are everywhere and inaccesible to boot
TimothyClaypole Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 Mini hijack but how do you get the screws out of casing them to take them apart? I've a BMW one that has some flatheaded screws - great for not getting a grip on...
Richard Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 This is the pack I got for the Volvo at the start of the year. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0430039273 I'm sure they'll have one for your alternator.
scooters Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 the Bosh one has 4 philips head screws with nut edges so I used a 8 ml socket set to remove - the one under the W D+ terminals is tricky as there is little space but a long socket sorted it. They can be pretty tough to undo - if they aren't bolt headed maybe you could try an impact driver witha flathead in it?
scooters Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 This is the pack I got for the Volvo at the start of the year. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0430039273 I'm sure they'll have one for your alternator. brilliant, I need a slightly different one but I bet they stock em - cheers Rich
scooters Posted April 19, 2011 Author Posted April 19, 2011 ok, didn't mean for 2 related threads - doh...sorry! anyway none of the local factors stock regulators... 12V ones come in at a tenner but this 14v one the option is £31 + postage for an aftermarket one on ebay or £24.00 + VAT for one from Wood. I suppose you do get the brushes as well which you don't with the 12V unit I saw...given that Wood supply a new alternator for £120+Vat it begs the question - is it worth it? Would I be better off swalowing the cash and buying a new alternator? If that price includes shiping then it is a good buy. The alternative wold be to try and find a 2nd hand one but most scrappys seem to sell their alternators to refurbishers or as units. Also - they'll probably want £20 for one of unknown provenance. I could buy a 2nd hand or refurbished alternator bt would question the ability of somone to properly refurbish one of these for less than £50 given the cost of the regulator and that they would replace the bearings, damaged slip rings etc....gonig down that route a new one from Woods looks a better idea. looks like Woods are the best option. I'll go for the regulator in the spirit of anti-throw-away-society
garethj Posted April 19, 2011 Posted April 19, 2011 none of the local factors stock regulators... 12V ones come in at a tenner but this 14v one the option is £31 + postage Hang on, this should be the same unit, surely? A car battery is nominally 12V but the alternator is rated at 14V. It’s still the same system; you don’t have some cars with 12V batteries and some with 14V. Everything that’s not military or very very old is 12V
Richard Posted April 19, 2011 Posted April 19, 2011 I think there's just been a bit of a product description fail. They are all 14V and they all come with brushes. One unit covers a multitude of Bosch and other manufacturer part numbers, all the numbers at the bottom of the page in my listing.
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