SiC Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 I seem to remember it had water radiator, intercooler, engine oil cooler and air con condenser radiators all up there! Finally a loop of alloy pipe for PAS fluid cooling. I zip tied that down, as it was flapping around a bit when I was under it last.
Guest Hooli Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 I really must try loading that manual you sent me! I copied it on to a portable HDD at work & now that's gone missing.... Gah, I'll have to borrow another one & do it again.
Guest Hooli Posted February 24, 2017 Posted February 24, 2017 Still not looked at the manual... Rad has arrived, I've not unpacked it yet but plan to fit it tomorrow. That spare tyre that came with the car might come in handy, got a massive sharp stone through a rear wheel as I got home. Was fine when I parked it, came back from walking a dog & the NSR is totally flat. Might make sense to pop out for that first, but I'd like to use it as a test/burp run for the new rad.
Guest Hooli Posted February 24, 2017 Posted February 24, 2017 Yeah, but the hole looks about 1" long so I doubt they'll fix it. Bugger etc.
Guest Hooli Posted February 24, 2017 Posted February 24, 2017 Feck awf! Only use that stuff has is to seal the slight leaks left after putting a plug into a bike tyre, it never works on its own.
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 Right puncture fixed What looked like a sharp stone was half a stanley knife blade & had only just gone through, so plugged & rebalanced £17 - result. The offending item The new rad is wrong, it's from a manual as it doesn't have the autobox oil cooler. So I've had to put the old one back, turns out it wasn't broken like I thought & is in good nick. The movement is because it hangs on spring loaded brackets. Both connections to the gearbox oil cooler in the end of the rad were just over finger tight & leaking, so I've clean n tightened them up. While it was out I've also cleaned up the O-ring on the drain plug, it did have some bits of scale still on it. I now have to contact the seller & return the wrong rad along with remembering to check the gearbox oil when hot, it's just on min when cold so I know it's not empty at least. SiC and Sigmund Fraud 2
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 Just tried to get those manuals installed again, they are now saying I've got the wrong version of windows. Do you know if they work on x64 SiC?
SiC Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 Probably not. I'd install them in a Windows XP VM tbh as it installs a whole load of IE plugins and other crap. Be careful filling the ATF up. The Oil temperature MUST be at the hot temperature specified on the dipstick. The cool temperature is only for indication and a crap one at that. IIRC "cold" temp is 30C too. If you don't have a Tech2, stick a thermocouple probe down the dipstick tube. Engine coolant temp gets up to temp way before the ATF does too, so again not an accurate gauge to use that either.
SiC Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 If the rad is in good nick, any idea where it is leaking? Still thinking it's the cap?
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 Yeah a VM is a good plan, I'll do that. No idea on the coolant leak, can't see it anywhere which doesn't help. I'll check the box when I get home from work monday, it's just getting hot enough to play up by then so I know its warm.
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 As I've uploaded these to send to the ebay chap I'll bore you all with them too... Auto rad, note the two bosses at the far end for the gearbox oil cooler Manual rad, spot the difference? And a pointless pic of putting it back showing one gearbox oil cooler pipe half attached
SiC Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 That bottom corner on the old rad looks a bit suspect! Or is that previous spilt oil?
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 That's old oil, the union for the gearbox oil cooler was barely tight, the top was weeping the same way but not spreading as much. It explains all the oil on the front cross member too, as it's run along the pipes & dripped off. On the bright side, all the gearbox fluid I saw was lovely & clean until it got outside where it should be.
Guest Hooli Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 Oh I forgot to say, I found the cap for the washer bottle. It was stuck to the oily goo under the radiator. DeeJay 1
SiC Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 LOL that damn cap. I have lost it and re-found it a good half a dozen or so times.
Guest Hooli Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 Got some gearbox oil to top it up tonight after fixing the leak t'other week. Tipped a litre in as it was 1/2" below min when hot. I'll recheck it when I get home tomorrow. Apart from that, nowt to report it's still just working like a car should. This still seems a novelty to me after the goona.
SiC Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 100% sure it was spot on at the correct temperature? Min to max on the stick is only 300ml iirc.
Guest Hooli Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 Well it was hot enough to fuck around badly & I recall you said that was over 95c. Might have been a bit much then, oops. We'll see. Drives ok though, just been to Asda in it. I really must get WIS running, still not bothered to spin up a VM for it yet.
Guest Hooli Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 Hmm read WIS a few times, it's not the clearest thing in the world at times is it? I think you check the fluid with the engine running right? if so it's bloody low, it's about 1/4" on the bottom of the dipstick like that. No real surprise with the oil slicks it was leaving until I found those leaks. I think I might have worked out the water leak & strange heater too. I'm thinking it's the waterpump leaking, the block is wet n dirty in that area & air getting in there would go straight to the heater & explain why that goes cold until you sling it around bends & dislodge the airlock. As it's not getting worse I shall ignore it until houses etc are sorted & then fix it for next winter. Finally, I was an idiot today. I missed the odometer hitting 212121 which is a nice number. I'll just have to wait for 222222.
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 I am reading this correctly that the fluid level is checked with the engine running aren't I?
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 I think I've answered my own question, it actually states engine idling in this http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=474 which looks like a screen grab from a different version of WIS. In that case mine is still bloody low, guess I'd better buy some more at the weekend as about 1/4" shows on the dipstick currently.
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Oh I forgot to mention, it gave me a moment at a junction tonight. I saw a gap, booted it out as per normal & it hardly moved worked out it was sticking in 3rd, changed ok manually though & worked again when cooled down. This might be why I did the posts above to make sure on fluid levels.
SiC Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Yes. Get it to temperature (80c). Run it in drive for 15 seconds. Then in Reserve for 15 seconds. Then in park. Immediately read the level. How are you measuring the temperature? You really need to get it right! It will screw it up in a big way if you get it over the level. Also you probably know this but JWS3309 spec oil only. Don't put Dextron3 in it.
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 It was that hot it was fucking about badly so hot enough?You did say it doesn't play up till 95c
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 How annoying GSF list Dextron3 for it.I'll keep looking as I can't recall the spec the local place sold
Guest Hooli Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Oh good, just found the stuff the local place does. It is correct. Glad about that as his book lists the wrong engine oil.
SiC Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Yeah 95c seems about right for the ATF temp when I had it. It was pretty binary when it got to the temp it started playing up at. Might be a bit different now with a new thermostat in the coolant system? Or if the box is starting to take a turn for the worse now. Apart from the incident earlier, how has the box been? With the weather warming up, it could be a reasonable job soon to get the valve body swapped over with the spare.
SiC Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 No idea how good this is, but looks like it should do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291843171561
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