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SAAB - WBOD PRICE DROP £295 or £5 a ticket, 12 Months MOT - WEDS DRAW! SOLD OUT!


Guest Hooli

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Just tried the shitters way of putting cardboard infront of the rad, I'd have to remove the grill to get it in so I've not bothered as I know what those plastic clips are like.

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http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145221#/topics/145221?page=1&_k=xgv1nx

 

Interesting. Appears that, in typically Saab style, if the ECU sees the temperature dropping rapidly while running or not getting to temperature quick enough, it deems the coolant temperature as implausible and duff! When it does this, it throws the EML and puts the temp gauge to minimum. Unfortunately it'll then run in open loop (& burn a lot of petrol).

 

I'd still get that code read, but I reckon changing the thermostat might fix the EML. Not usually something I'd expect, but then this is Saab. Saab being the type of manufacture who put both a cable and Electronic drive to the throttle body, so if the Electronic control failed it can trip a solenoid to engage manual/old fashioned throttle body control as a backup.

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I was saying to someone at work this morning that maybe it'd flagged it due to an excessive difference between oil & water temps or something. Seems I guessed right. Cheers for looking that up.

 

Oh my thermostat turned up this morning, turns out a neighbour appeared & took it in. But he was out last night so handed it over when I was getting in the car this morning. I might fit it tonight as I'll be home about five.

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Tonight's action shot.

 

20170131_173342_zpsqqqbdggo.jpg

 

The stat on this is hidden away behind the cylinder head, you can see the end of the elbow here.

 

20170131_173329_zpswmbyknq4.jpg

 

It now gets warm n stays warm :) the EML is still on though, but I'll be able to clear that once my new code reader turns up later in the week.

 

Usefully tonight I've made it quieter to drive, quicker to react to the throttle and solved the burning oil smell. The pipe that comes up the side of the engine to the throttle body wasn't quite seated right on the TB, most due to a bit of damage on the end. I'd only taken it off to get more space to work, it's laid on the engine in the pics above. Now it's seated properly the car isn't loosing boost so might even get better mpgs too as I bet it was a bit rich when it was fuelling for boost it wasn't getting.

 

Not a bad 45mins work I'd say.

 

 

Oh nearly forgot. The stereo is bloody good, tried a few CDs today & you can't half feel the bass kick. Much better than the three blown speakers in the goona!

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Yeah I was impressed with the radio too. If you ever jump start it, they're probe to blowing the fuse on the back - which what happened with me. CD player may take a couple of prods of the eject for the CD to come out though!

 

I think it's mid-spec setup. Much better than the early 9-3NG crap setup.

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Yup, I was reading the book & it is mid-level. The top of the range is the same with two subs added in the parcel shelf, I wonder if the wiring etc is there?

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Lost interior heat halfway to work this morning even though the engine was nice & warm. Just done a re-calibration on the ACC & popped to the post office for tax & all seems good.

 

Might be one for the grumpy thread, but the DVLA site wouldn't let me tax it online because there had been a change in the car's record within the last five days  - yes there often is when you buy a car & need to tax it ffs!

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S'not bad. Gets 'lumpy' once the box is hot & is a bit slow to engage reverse when it's that warm. It's ok to drive though, it's just enough to remind me to fix it. Give it till summer time & I'll strip n clean the new control unit & then lob it in.

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To be fair to the poor box, it has done over 210k. Even though it has this fault, it's no spring chicken.

 

I guess you've not had the big thump it occasionally did in heavy traffic between 2nd and 3rd? With the journeys you're doing, you may never even get it.

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My code reader turned up today. We were correct on the cause of the EML - P0116 coolant temp sensor out of range (or something similar). Cleared the code, marvelled at all the info you can watch in real time on your phone. I can see me displaying that for no good reason when driving around on occasion. I'll have to work out which one is the gearbox temp as there isn't an option for that just a generic list of sensors.

 

Lets see if the mpg feels better tomorrow now it's back on closed loop. I wonder if it'll make the heating any different? as the book says the amount of heat/fan is adjusted as the engine warms up. Not that anything is wrong with the heating since it burped & got re-calibrated.

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Gearbox temp is in the gearbox ECU that piston can't read. Only thing that can read it is a Tech2. Or buy a cheap thermocouple meter and stick it down the tube...

 

Probably was running on closed loop when you restarted and it decided that the temp was plausible again. Reckon it simply was the thermostat that triggered it.

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Yeah, it lit up just as the gauge dropped back to cold after 30mins driving so makes sense that was the cause. We'll see, down to 31.7mpg on the trip computer now.

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Well the drive to work was a success, which is always a good start to the day!

 

Heater is better now, the temp is more stable inside the car. I think there is something in the ACC that changes how it functions when the engine is cold.

 

Half located the oil leak too, it's near the front on the offside. Judging by the mark on the floor it's around the turbo, so hopefully something simple like a crush washer on the turbo's oil lines.

 

Oh & the fuel light came on at 420miles, guess I'd better feed it on the way home.

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Could well be the oil pressure sensor - I think its around that area. Very known fault that they leak on Saab 9-5s petrols. It's a GM part, naturally. I seem to remember that somewhere in the history it notes that its had one in its previous past.

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Cool, that'll be an easy fix if so, I'll take a look over the weekend.

 

Got to go get thread inserts & a few other bits in the morning to make a start on getting a bike back on the road too, so busy busy busy here.

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Looks like the oil leak might be the crankshaft end seal as it seems to be worst around the bottom pulley. That'd explain the squeal from the aux belt too, as it's always covered in oil down there. I'm glad it's a proper engine with a camchain not a cambelt, or I'd now be concerned about that. Doesn't look too bad a job, access under the wheel arch is ok once the undertray is off, provided the pulley comes undone of course. I'll have a read of the workshop manual later & then ignore the issue for a bit.

 

Oh & you know I said the roads round my way are filthy? Well this was nice n clean when I got it & all I've done is drive to work for a week.

 

20170204_124024_zpshvyucxst.jpg

20170204_162854_zpsqom8unul.jpg

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Ah that's interesting! Would certainly explain it. I'd be tempted to leave it, cause oil is cheap enough and it's not chucking it out... (yet!)

 

I personally think they look better when filthy. They need the slightly shagged look.

BEEP! BEEP! I'M A DIRTY OLD SAAB. LET ME THROUGH.

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I'll do it at some point, I don't like leaky engines. Should be as simple as wheel off, undertray off, aux belt off, pulley off, pry out seal & replace - blah blah blah is the reversal of removal.

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Just remembered something else SiC.

 

That right angled pipe that broke & you put that replacement bit in with jubilee clips? I found the broken bit still laying on the undertray.

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Bulbs turned up last night, busy tonight though. Might do them weds.

 

SiC, did it use water when you had it? It's showing as low again, but I can't see any leaks where I did the stat. Might be related to the heater of course, as it seems to warm up again after going cold now.

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As my mate couldn't get here to sort his bike out tonight, I changed the ACC bulbs. That was a nice easy job, pop the whole unit out with a credit card down the side & then push it back afterwards.

 

Went from this

 

20170207_180157_zps97nm0zov.jpg

 

To this

 

20170207_181317_zpsxe9dpndv.jpg

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