Welding sills for MOT.

[Bobthebeard]

Have read much on the Internet about sill repairs and the need for seam welding etc. Thing is, I have done my own welding on the sills. Seam welded as far as possible given my amateur technique, but I have now sprayed Hammerite Stonechip over the result. Question for the knowledgeable, will MOT tester possibly refuse to test the car as he can't see the weld quality? The weld lines can be clearly seen despite and under the Stonechip coating.... The welds are strong I think. Bashed them with a hammer very hard before the Stonechip treatment. Plus a welder mate gave them the once over and was happy with the work. Although was a tad rude about the appearance.

Am I worrying for no reason? The welding is to the outer sills, the visible part. Have checked the inner sills and even removed the carpet so the MOT tester can see inner sills. All sound and original.

Car passed its last MOT in early 2011, with an advisory about slight corrosion in sill outer bodies. Car off the road ever since MOT ran out due to me being potless! However, when I investigated the outer sills were extremely rotten under the mastic that was applied when new. (Porsche 944.)Hence the weldathon and the question!

I really don't want to take the car for an MOT and have the quality of welding called into question, as that will possibly haunt me forever due to the computerised system etc...

Thanks in advance etc! Sorry to go on a bit....

[Bobthebeard]

Have read much on the Internet about sill repairs and the need for seam welding etc. Thing is, I have done my own welding on the sills. Seam welded as far as possible given my amateur technique, but I have now sprayed Hammerite Stonechip over the result. Question for the knowledgeable, will MOT tester possibly refuse to test the car as he can't see the weld quality? The weld lines can be clearly seen despite and under the Stonechip coating.... The welds are strong I think. Bashed them with a hammer very hard before the Stonechip treatment. Plus a welder mate gave them the once over and was happy with the work. Although was a tad rude about the appearance.

Am I worrying for no reason? The welding is to the outer sills, the visible part. Have checked the inner sills and even removed the carpet so the MOT tester can see inner sills. All sound and original.

Car passed its last MOT in early 2011, with an advisory about slight corrosion in sill outer bodies. Car off the road ever since MOT ran out due to me being potless! However, when I investigated the outer sills were extremely rotten under the mastic that was applied when new. (Porsche 944.)Hence the weldathon and the question!

I really don't want to take the car for an MOT and have the quality of welding called into question, as that will possibly haunt me forever due to the computerised system etc...

Thanks in advance etc! Sorry to go on a bit....

[daverapid]

I'm an MOT tester and it sounds like it'll be alright to me. Are you able to post a pic of the finished result?

[daverapid]

I'm an MOT tester and it sounds like it'll be alright to me. Are you able to post a pic of the finished result?

[scaryoldcortina]

I'm also a tester, and suspect that the absolute worst you can expect is an advisory notice along the lines of "unable to assess welded patches due to underseal". This is assuming that the patch is solidly stuck to the car and the tester can't get the end of the corrosion tool under the edges.

[Morgan84]

I am also a MOT tester,and what you have described sounds absolutely fine;there is no reason for rejection regarding undersealing repaired areas on vehicles.If it can be seen that the panel had been seam repaired,or spot welds used in a section where they were originally used,then that meets the test criteria.If you can't see it,then you can't test it,and if necessary pass and advise

A classic case I had a few years ago was .....

 

1996 Nissan Micra,with both sill panels gone at the rear, reason for rejection was suspension component mounting area is excessively corroded.The owner takes the car away and seem welds repair sections,and also takes a step by step photo of what he has done,showing where he cut out,and placed the patches in.Unfortunately,he felt it didn't look as tidy as he would have liked ( skilled engineer,so likes perfection ).His solution was to cut some stainless steel cover plates,and epoxy resin them over the repair sections ! This had to be refused,as all signs of the repair were hidden,and had you not seen the photo's,there was no proof of the repairs having been taken out.It looked like 2 metal patches had been stuck over the rot,with no signs of any welding;I even got the local VOSA office to explain that too him on the phone.They said to him " Had you not taken any photo's of the repairs,and taken it to anyone too look at,what would they think" For him to then admit " well,it does look like someones glued a couple of patches on " Unfortunately photo's are not within the testing guide as yet !

 

He said that getting his stuck on plates off would be a nightmare,and could I just pass it,for which I said no,but there is a way round it;smooth over the 'plates' with filler,and paint/seal them.Next day,the car comes back,with smooth painted sills,which when using the corrosion assesment tool make all the right noises - Pass ! And the sill repairs are just as good to this day

[Albert Ross]

Strangely, I'm also a tester.... sounds ok from here, but one thing I notice about the "full seam welding" statement, is that the oft forgotten mention of the "original method" of fixing can be used. Basically if you cut off the comple bottom lip of the original corroded sill, leavin just the floor section and the inner sill upright of the triple "sandwich", then a drilled plug-weld, or a good clean spot weld, is as good as the original, if not stronger, but keep the frequency/measurement identical or more welds per inch. This method also ensures that any wax type anti-corrosion spray can be added, and the drips come out as designed. This also mean that any moisture gathered within can also drip out, unlike the full seam weld. Poor drainage is the killer for original sills, and also poor repair kills the replacements within 3 years......

[Bobthebeard]

Thankyou all for the extremely helpful and detailed replies! I feel much happier now.

Some pics of the result.... The rot was all cut back to sound metal and then the patches applied.

More of the same on the other end of the sill, and also on the other side. The car does have plastic sill covers, but in the light of what has been said, I shall leave them off for the MOT. Drainage holes have been left/cleaned out and the newly applied waxoyl did indeed drip out as mentioned. I then made sure they were still clear and not blocked up with wax!

Car now booked in for test next Tuesday....

Many thanks

 

image by Bobthebeard, on Flickr

 

 

image by Bobthebeard, on Flickr

 

 

image by Bobthebeard, on Flickr

[brickwall]

Looks sound.

[Morgan84]

I'd pass it !

[Bobthebeard]

Thanks!

Appreciate the replies and advice. It has been, and is being, a bit of a long haul trying to get the car back on the road. Not over yet until the MOT test is safely passed though....

Have learned new skills along the way, but best of all discovered the Autoshite Forum! A nice place to be. Got the hang of the forum now I think... Despite posting a few, ahem, odd new and possibly unwanted topics etc.

Some jolly nice folks on here.

Big up! Thanks!

[Bobthebeard]

It passed the MOT....Thankfully! Plus no advisories either....

Thanks for all the words of wisdom guys!

[daverapid]

Congratulations!