Used engine oil, any good for rustproofing?

[brickwall]

Full of corrosive acid, plus all the carcinogens. Having to weld to sills which are internally soaked in used sump oil not a pleasant thought. Used cooking oil is very cheap and just as good, plus it dries off to a tacky finish. Thin with heat before spraying internally.

 

Otherwise, the professional products intended for inside cavities (not Waxoyl, it isn't elastic enough when dry) are superb, don't cost any more than half a tank of fuel at the most and last well. Do it in a wart dry spell in August, when all traces of winter road salt are long gone and there's no risk of trapping any moisture in blind seams. Thin as necessary, apply under pressure  -  the internal bits are the most important areas to do.

 

Don't spray the exterior with the black stuff (underbody schutz) over any rust - next time you come to have a look there'll be 10x the rot.

 

I'm not worried about cancer having driven shite for years plus smoking like a chimney for years. I'm always coated with poisonous crap. I agree with the sills though and the bulkhead too. Setting fire to the car whilst welding it has happened a few times so I always have the water sprayer handy and a wet towel.

 

Many shite cars are pretty much flammable anyway, what with tar pads used for soundproofing and dampening anyway.

 

I always clean rust off and then coat with phosphoric acid and then schutz. On the Rangie I just plugged the chassis with cloths and gaffa and poured it in the holes at the top and then bounced it around the farm track nearby.

[forddeliveryboy]

I rust proofed the engine bay in the XJ6 by leaving the oil filler cap off by accident and driving 20 miles...job done

 

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Yep, if you're gunna use engine or gear oil then may as well make it an automatic process. Best thing is a series of pin holes in an LHM pipe, preferably just forward of the front subframe, running crosswise. There's a light to say when your reservoir needs refilling and if you get the holes just the right size, you only have to top up once a month or even less.

[Shep Shepherd]

I wonder if used gearbox oil or ATF would be a better bet, due to it not being full of by-products from the combustion process?

[KruJoe]

Have you ever handled the stuff?

Probably not, if you're asking the question

[Shep Shepherd]

Have you ever handled the stuff?

Probably not, if you're asking the question

 

I have, and it's pretty horrible. I was just wondering if it made an effective rustproofer.

 

Waxoyl is my preferred rustproofing method, although it's not as cheap as it used to be.

[gordonbennet]

I used to use gear oil, full 90 or higher, to lube the exposed screws that lifted the decks on the transporters (and tie down ratchets), grease was too thick and difficult to get where needed inside the thread or the ratchet itself, engine oil would be washed off within a day in heavy weather, but gear oil lasted well, far better than the correct chain lube type aerosol grease.

 

Trouble is with all non hardening lubes is they attract dirt.

 

Castrol CL waterproof grease is probably the very best for protecting brake pipes and other similar parts, paints on well.