General spot welds question to the floor

[j-j]

Hi all, I think I'm going to have to remove a panel on the CX that is spot welded in so that I can reach a seriously corroded panel beyond it. This is due to stupid 'saloon-fastback' design of the car making the simple inner wheel arch repair i need to do absolutely impossible otherwise. The panel in question is a 'rear bulkhead' essentially the rear seat back or boot wall. It has about 40 spot welds around its edge.

 

I have never removed spot welds previously and wonder who's dunnit and the best approach. I know they are best drilled and eased off with a chisel but what type of drill bit and any technique.

 

I know someone on here will know!

[Albert Ross]

Spot weld drill bit.

 

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... H4Q8wIwAA#

[j-j]

Thanks AR, I didn't even consider that there was actually a drill bit specifically for it! That seems ideal then. Would one bit last for 40 spot welds or should I pick up 2 for the job.

[Albert Ross]

Buy 2 in case you snap one, but if it stays together, it should last ages. If you use a metal bladed scraper to ease the panel off, the type with the hammer through handle....

The metal profile is the full shape, and the wooden handle sandwiches it. Gentle tapping will see it release with minimal damage. the joy of using the correct drill bit, is that you only need drill the outer skin, meaning you can realign easily, and plug-weld it back on, using the holes you made!!

[M'coli]

Buy two, chances are you won't need the second - but if you only buy the one, it'll most likely "catch" at high speed and snap with 3 spots to go!

[michael1703]

zipcuts are the daddy

 

http://www.toolbuddy.co.uk/ekmps/shops/ ... ekm%5D.jpg

 

you can adjust the depth by turning the grub screw in the shank, so if youve got 3 pieces spotted you can adjust it to just cut the top layer

 

the cutting head is reversible if you blunt the cutting face, they last forever though