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Everything posted by sickboy

  1. Seeing your pics is bringing back nightmares of the boundless welding I did to my old one, and why I grew to hate the thing so much 😂 That area is tricky as you need to make sure that lip for the arch is aligned properly or they’ll be gaps to the body. If I did it again - shinker/stretcher 😉 I’d replace the whole inner arch since you have the panel already and the existing tin work surrounding it is a patchwork quilt.
  2. I have a 900 Turbo. Bought in July in 2019, spent a lot of time and money going through it with new brake callipers, discs, pads and hoses all round, new shocks all round (and springs soon), new head gasket with new exhaust valves, rebuilt the rear axle and had it blasted, painted and fitted new bushes. I’ve done a a shit-ton of welding to it: LHF driveshaft tunnel, rear inner arches, inner RHF wing and complete new outer wing, rear shock mounts.... Relocated the battery to the boot and fitted a JT 3” down pipe the other week. I love it. Can’t think of another retro/classic car that is quite so well-rounded, and ticks so many boxes: styling, space, fuel economy, performance, comfort, safety, and appreciated by a broad spread of personalities.
  3. Neat!! How does it drive @Ghosty Becoming quite a cult car now, and their looks seem to be improving with age
  4. Even if the front is the only bit to consider, that’s still worth a fair bit in parts.
  5. Not really in my area, but I spotted this pair o’ ZX 16v’s in Devon on a recent bikepacking trip
  6. Is it possible that 5922 sealer which you substituted isn't working? You ideally want an anaerobic sealant like Loctite 518 for that cam cover.
  7. I'd say £2000 is very fair for yours. I sold my 82k mile, unmodified, full-fat 182, with recent belts and lots of service history, for £3400. But 172's always seem a bit cheaper than the 182's. I don't miss it in the slightest. Couldn't warm to the car at all, just found it too modern, shouty and stressful to own, and was in constant fear a dash light would illuminate that I'm clueless how to fix and it would end up costing me loads of money. My old 205 XS on the other hand, I do miss. I find a 205 much more fun to own and drive than a Clio 1*2, and totally get their appeal. But then I'm a wrong 'un.
  8. Thanks for the kind comments peeps. Admittedly I wasn’t quite as tidy in my repairs on this as I am on the Falcon; bit more of a time factor involved. But nonetheless I’m pretty pleased with the results. Volvo pics Incidentally, the reg number makes it @marm ‘s old 940’s twin 🙂
  9. Sorry sorry sorry sorry @barrett Title amended!! In other news, I sold the Clio 182. I just didn't gel with it. Maybe it was too new and shouty for me, maybe I'm too sedate a driver, dunno . It just didn't suit me. I never really explored it's cited "5k rpm kick" and great handling virtues, simply because that's not how I drive. It just stressed me out, the boot was too small, it was too noisy, had a hard ride, and I was always anxious I'd turn the key and some light would appear I haven't the ability, interest or money to fix. I won't say they're overrated, but it certainly reinstated by love for older cars. It was no 205 XS, that's for sure 🙂 So I now have another Volvo 940 and feel much better
  10. And finally, MOT came yesterday, which it passed, needing only one bulb replacing.
  11. Going back together. I sealed the arches in stonechip, and fitted news discs, pads, calipers and hoses all round Might still change the springs, so that's why they weren't blasted with the rest of the axle
  12. Relocated the battery to the boot. The stock location is about the only part of these car’s otherwise fantastic design that I dislike. It gets hot near the turbo and I want to make or buy a 3” elbow in the near future too. Made a nifty battery tray for a small glass mat battery which could go under the boot floor hatch beside the spare wheel. (soon discovered the CCA wasn’t cutting the mustard so sent it back and hacked the tray up to fit a conventional lead acid one) Although not shown, the main cable has a fusable link and master kill switch fitted.
  13. Got the axle blasted and POR-15’ed whilst it was removed Spot of rust needed sorting on one arm before paint Made these bushes for the rear ARB, and also made some stainless tank straps (if anyone’s interested I can make more of either 😉)
  14. Few more pictures (struggling to get images to post upright!!)
  15. I knew it needed welding on the rear chassis section in the wheel arches and the rear shock mounts too. This was always going to be a sod to repair, and a job I was dreading. I stripped the interior, fuel tank and axle in readiness for what lay ahead. And again, got prodding FFS Decided to just cut the whole sodding section out and make another one. Thought it would be easier than spending my Spring under the wheel arch patching. Had to also replace the inner tub behind it too!!! Makes you wonder how rusty other 900’s are under the carpets…. Can't argue with “Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner arch / chassis area corroded and holed (5.3.6 (a) (i))” 🤣
  16. New inner arch too then 🙄 Used weld-through primer on the inner and outer arch lips first, then masked it before the red. Sprayed the back before fitting it, and tried to copy the factory TIG welds on the inner wing. The colour match is better than it looks, that bonnet needed a polish!!! I will get it redone very soon by a friendly paint sprayer.
  17. Come this year, I decided I'd first tackle the dubiously repaired front wing. Standard crusty lip and evident filler/paper mache artistry swayed me to replace it. After a bit of prodding Oh dear Oh dear oh dear
  18. 6 months on, I thought I’d update. Got the interior in the Falcon, but I decided in February that the Saab was closer to being on the road so I'd focus on getting that done for the summer. Like all these things, it ended up being worse than I thought. Ho hum. Wind back to February last year, and I repaired the driveshaft tunnels
  19. Good suggestion. The rear shocks on these very often suffer from the bottom bolts seized in the sleeves, and it’s a bastard to get to them to cut them because of the design of the trailing arm, so they’re often just left to get worse until the shock is absolutely shagged.
  20. I think* gearbox weakness stuff is more due to misuse/abuse. They’re the first thing to break if you’re tuning it and being hard on the car, but that doesn’t mean they’re inherently weak in themselves. Yours is a non turbo anyway so it’s less likely to be a problem.
  21. Never a floppy top - because I haven’t got the self-esteem for anything convertible - but I have a hatchback shape 1991 Saab 900 Turbo. I’m less than 10 miles from you @Tomtation, so you’re more than welcome to come round and have a nosey if it helps you decide if a Saab’s for you 🙂
  22. I'd say those marks in your yellow highlighted region are just die grinding marks from the factory. Manufacturers typically grind off any casting flash at the left from the foundry, and the grinding marks left after this process look like that. Most blocks have them somewhere. Like you say, the oil is probably finding its way to that red area from elsewhere. Is it not most likely that the rocker cover leak was the sole, overall culprit?
  23. Looking good Tom. MOT result doesn't seem too bad, especially for a 200k diesel AX. I saw your thread Morbidmobile on the Volvo forum too, what's ultimately the plan for it once its on the road? Campervan? 😁
  24. Probably £500-600 if its clean and rust-free.. Really depends on condition with these, although due to their often elderly owner demographic, really clean AX's aren't as rare as people think.
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