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browntastic 604


dieselnutjob

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and from today

The cross member bolts were (I think) M12 fine but I found some long 10mm coach bolts lying around so dropped it 2cm

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I think it was necessary. You can see that the lug on the block only just clears, and this is with the engine as high as it will go with the transmission attached

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coolant pipes on the back of the engine are much easier once the engine and transmission are separated a bit

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it started to come out

 

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then I noticed that the engine was starting to twist and so I went round the other side to have a look

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its out!

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if you look at the middle of this photo there is a pipe snapped off

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that's from the inlet manifold to the automatic vacuum capsule.

Either I snapped it lifting the engine out, or it was already broken off which might explain why this engine never ran right.

You will also notice that the bell housing is bone dry. I think that the rear main old seal is/was actually fine.  The front of the engine is soaked in oil though.

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Result!!

Love these big old barges; there was once a metallic maroon one dumped in the garden of a house opposite the school bus stop. I secretly coveted it for many years, but then one day it was gone.

Never seen one on the road!

Hope the rest of the refurb goes well; this'll be a phenomenal thing once it's done. Top work.

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One of the harder parts was getting the starter motor off.

Once you see these photos it's obvious, but when it's on the car it's very difficult to figure out because you just cannot see the bolts.

The official Peugeot manual was no help, neither was the Renault 30 nor Volvo 740 / 760 Haynes manuals.

However the Volvo 260 Haynes manual (number 400) had a beautiful photo of the starter motor which really helped.

The struggle was figuring out how the forward end (near the oil filter) is attached.

It's held on by the two slots that you can clearly see once it's off

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which is located onto the block with the two bolts shown here

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I didn't do much yesterday.

This morning I just put all of the bolts into the right holes and made sure that all of the holes had a bolt.

I know that this engine will be out for a while and I know that in a few weeks time I won't remember where everything is or where it goes.

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5 minutes ago, spartacus said:

@dieselnutjob, this is a 'go to' thread for me now, I'm loving the progress you're making on what was frankly a forgotten car. Please be careful working in that tight space, although I do understand it's all you've got.

yes it is a little tight but I am absolutely loving it.

I haven't really had a proper weather proof enclosed space to work in before, and being able to just leave stuff where it is to have a break or even come back to it the next day is such a relief.  The access road that the garage is on is now secure (there are security gates across all the entrances) so I don't have to worry that someone is going to nick my tools if I leave it open whilst I go away for 1/2 hour.

In comparison four years ago I changed the turbo on the Jag on my front drive and I just hate working like that.  Every time I needed a tool that I hadn't anticipated I have to go through the house to get it and being a busy road I just couldn't leave things for more than a few minutes.  There was also the soul destroying feeling of a rain shower starting.

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I posted a question on Aussiefrogs seven years ago about the PRV engine and finally got an answer.  

The post is here https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/prv-v6-top-end-lubrication-mod.113300/

The oil pressure on this engine is maybe a little low, but then equally I was running it on fully synthetic oil (I think 5W40) and it's maybe too thin.

Edit: let me clarify. On a normal idle the light doesn't come on.  But if the idle is a bit low then the light starts flickering.

Normal advice is that these "modern" oils are too thin for a classic, but according to the Renault Alpine folks the PRV engines were actually manufactured to pretty modern tolerances and they think that modern synthetics are good for them.

So given how much work it is to get these engines out should I strip it down and check stuff?  Or just do the obvious and easy (front and rear oil seals, rocker arms because I have some good ones).

If I have to pull the front pulley to change the oil seal (and I do) then I could pretty easily pull off the timing cover and check out the chain and tensioners at the same time.

I checked the compression last year and it was good on all six.  There's no blue smoke from the exhaust but I can't tell what oil consumption is like because it leaks out of the engine so fast.

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I have been chatting on WhatsApp with someone in CPUK and he has convinced my not to worry about the oil galleries.  He said the same thing that I was kind of thinking, which is that drilling out galleries should only be done in the context of a total stripdown so that swarf can by properly cleaned out.

However I am going to have a go at getting the rocker arms off.  On one side the shaft can easily be slid out but on the other I think it has to go either through or past the camshaft drive sprocket and the timing cover definitely has to come off.  I just found out that Deloreango has plenty of stock of timing cover gaskets so that settles it.

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When you put the rocker / cam covers back be careful with the gaskets.  

The chap I sold my PRV-engined Alpine to (it was in bits) called me in a panic when he got it back together and running because of a loud knocking from the top end.  I had told him the engine was sound - as it was. To cut his long story short, he had been sold the wrong gaskets, they were too thin and as a result the rockers were knocking on the covers. The same pressed-steel covers your engine has.

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  • 1 month later...
15 minutes ago, Tag2664 said:

I don't think so, I was a member here years ago but don't think I posted any pics. 

 

Until now! 

IMG_20200506_172812.jpg

2021-03-23_09-59-28.jpg

2020-08-21_08-26-59.jpg

A right hand drive Tagora!!!!!

Be still my beating heart!!! 
 

Please start a thread on this, I’d love to know more!!!! 

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On 6/5/2021 at 3:50 PM, Tag2664 said:

I don't think so, I was a member here years ago but don't think I posted any pics. 

 

Until now! 

IMG_20200506_172812.jpg

2021-03-23_09-59-28.jpg

2020-08-21_08-26-59.jpg

You're not the previously titled Boobydoo are you?  With BEA83Y?

 

 

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Sigh. What happened to calm cars? Cars that were styled in a less is more sort of a way with each of their three boxes styled in proportion, a low waistline and plenty of glass so people can see how well dressed you are. 604s, Fiat 130s, Lancia Trevi (honourable mention to the why the bloody hell did they not build it Gamma Scala), the Mk2 Granada.

Why can't we have these things back? Imagine how clean and tidy they would be with modern production and design. Wouldn't it be so much nicer than some pre-crashed, stumpy bonneted Darth Vader helmet with a roofline close to the stars.

 

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On 6/8/2021 at 11:55 AM, JimH said:

Apols for being off topic but bugger me, isn't this a looker?

1980-Pininfarina-Lancia-Gamma-Scala-03.j

The sort of car that forces you to dress better.

 

 

This to my eye at least has a slight overtone of the Peugeot 505 - another elegantly styled big Peugeot - particularly around the rear pillar and in the relationship of the glass to the body.

 

I like quite a few of Paolo Martin's creations, not just the 604. The 104 was especially neat, the 130 particularly elegant - andd the Camargue remains one of my favourite cars. A friend of my late father owned a Camargue in the early '80s. Riding in a Camargue was such an event even the normal Shadow felt ordinary after it. And who could forget the Ferrari Modulo from Top Trumps?

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