St.Jude’s Road to Perdition: Part Deux // 2008 Peugeot Partner Tepee - HAUNTED/CURSED

[St.Jude]

9 hours ago, junkyarddog said:

I've recently got one of these (Citroen) and this is making uncomfortable reading!!🫣🤣

It’s what it is after COVID. All them fuckers stockpiling and panic buying bog roll are the same fuckers who’ll run a car in to the ground and blame you for it breaking.

The good things as said above is that the engines are plentiful and parts are cheap. For every MPV of these variants there is a white van too and there’s enough about. So it can’t be all bad.

Interestingly - shows where my head is now with things - I looked in to how much the clutches cost on these. Unless a clutch is slipping I’ve no fucking idea between a  bad clutch or a good one. Drove a Punto once and the clutch was so light I stalled it all the time, I could never get the bite.

Apparently, in this age/style of van/MPV it is likely to have a dual mass flywheel. But, in the commercial van equivalent, they only have a single mass.

Found that interesting to the point I think it’s bollocks tbh.

[artdjones]

6 hours ago, St.Jude said:

It’s what it is after COVID. All them fuckers stockpiling and panic buying bog roll are the same fuckers who’ll run a car in to the ground and blame you for it breaking.

The good things as said above is that the engines are plentiful and parts are cheap. For every MPV of these variants there is a white van too and there’s enough about. So it can’t be all bad.

Interestingly - shows where my head is now with things - I looked in to how much the clutches cost on these. Unless a clutch is slipping I’ve no fucking idea between a  bad clutch or a good one. Drove a Punto once and the clutch was so light I stalled it all the time, I could never get the bite.

Apparently, in this age/style of van/MPV it is likely to have a dual mass flywheel. But, in the commercial van equivalent, they only have a single mass.

Found that interesting to the point I think it’s bollocks tbh.

 If it's 110hp it will probably have a DMF, if 75 or 92hp, probably not. A Valeo 4 piece kit with DMF online should be around £300 - 350 online. Not pocket change, but not disastrous either.

[St.Jude]

1 hour ago, artdjones said:

 If it's 110hp it will probably have a DMF, if 75 or 92hp, probably not. A Valeo 4 piece kit with DMF online should be around £300 - 350 online. Not pocket change, but not disastrous either.

Yeah 10 years ago the 3008 had the DMF and it fucked itself, helpfully 2 days before we were due to complete on our first house. The clutch was slipping a lot and I got quoted £600 for it.

Picked it up and the guy asked if I had trailed the car in and I said no I drove it. He had no idea how I could drive it but, I did.

So £300/350 isn’t bad for a like for like. Just found it amusing that the van version has a single and the passenger one is dual.

[artdjones]

40 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

Yeah 10 years ago the 3008 had the DMF and it fucked itself, helpfully 2 days before we were due to complete on our first house. The clutch was slipping a lot and I got quoted £600 for it.

Picked it up and the guy asked if I had trailed the car in and I said no I drove it. He had no idea how I could drive it but, I did.

So £300/350 isn’t bad for a like for like. Just found it amusing that the van version has a single and the passenger one is dual.

I think it's more down to which engine version is fitted. Valeo also make a single mass conversion kit which is supposed to work well.

Edit:-On the factory parts diagram, the 110hp is shown with a solid centre plate, for use with DMF, the 92 hp with a sprung centre plate, as used with a single mass item.

[St.Jude]

Shit should’ve mentioned here something.

Spoke to the garage today asking how it was going etc. They’ve been waiting on a pipe, a rubber one, that goes behind the turbo. He said it was all congealed and knackered, and clipped twice so it wouldn’t come off? I’m not all that sure on that tbh. No idea what’s behind the turbo other than an engine.

He said it’s all stripped down and ready to go and should have it back by Friday at the latest.

[Sigmund Fraud]

46 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

They’ve been waiting on a pipe, a rubber one, that goes behind the turbo. He said it was all congealed and knackered, and clipped twice so it wouldn’t come off? I’m not all that sure on that tbh. No idea what’s behind the turbo other than an engine.

Presumably the oil return pipe ? 

[St.Jude]

9 minutes ago, Sigmund Fraud said:

Presumably the oil return pipe ? 

Possibly!

[MrBig]

Just caught up on this. After the Land Cruiser and now this you are surely due some good luck with cars?!?

[St.Jude]

1 hour ago, MrBig said:

Just caught up on this. After the Land Cruiser and now this you are surely due some good luck with cars?!?

You’d think! I think I had my good luck with the Subaru.

Wife happily points to the 107 I have and how little trouble I have had with it, as I had it since it was new. And I’ve looked after it.

But at the same time I am superstitious and I’m happy to have this as a sacrificial bad luck charm rather than it appearing anywhere else in my life!

[Dave_Q]

Maybe too late but only thing I would question about the bill is what turbo is being fitted for that price, is it new or recon and is it OEM brand or China special.

[St.Jude]

1 hour ago, Dave_Q said:

Maybe too late but only thing I would question about the bill is what turbo is being fitted for that price, is it new or recon and is it OEM brand or China special.

Yeah, didn’t think to do that. TBH this wasn’t the worst thing to happen to my on Monday so it kind of got forgotten about.

Saying that when I turned up on the Monday to have a word and a look he kicked, I think, a big green Lucas box out of the way. They do do turbos. So maybe the prince of darkness will now become my prince of asthma?

[Zelandeth]

6 hours ago, St.Jude said:

Yeah, didn’t think to do that. TBH this wasn’t the worst thing to happen to my on Monday so it kind of got forgotten about.

Saying that when I turned up on the Monday to have a word and a look he kicked, I think, a big green Lucas box out of the way. They do do turbos. So maybe the prince of darkness will now become my prince of asthma?

No, it's the prince of "sticking a known name on the cheapest Chinese shite going" for any vehicle parts these days.

Last set of HT leads I saw from them were arcing all over the shop right out the box (yes I found that out the har sway when I got a good belt off one).

[vaughant]

On 14/01/2026 at 15:45, Remspoor said:

Euro5 and 6 diesels are way to complicated to ensure some sort of trouble free low mileage use. 

They really aren't if you buy the right one.

Very little issues with any of the Merc 2.1d's and anything 11-12 years or newer by now will be Euro 6.

I believe the only major difference between E5 and E6 is they contain an adblue system and a dpf rather than just one.

The venerable Renner 1.5d can be had in Euro 6 flavour basically on a very old design engine which also seem to give few problems in city use. 

Probably best to blast them every now and again but that's the same of most diesel vehicles.

[vaughant]

On 19/01/2026 at 10:12, tom13 said:

What's the general consensus on these engines? My brother has a Crewcab Scudo 1.6 Hdi and it just doesn't seem like a quality unit. He has a Vito now that has replaced it and after it has had a new spill off pipe fitted it will be getting shifted.

Iirc 2011 and onwards the design was changed to an 8v engine, single cam and they are much more robust.

Like anything else though there's millions of these about with moon mileage on having had no issues whereas another person has one with 60k on its 3rd turbo.

For me, fitting a new turbo should always entail changing oil feed pipes and the like, I was doing that back in the 90's with rs turbos and the like.

I had an issue with a turbo technics replacement on my ML, only lasted about 8 months. Cunt on the end of the phone said it was all my fault as it wasn't fitted properly and he could only sell me a new one for £900. Spoke with their top man, Pete something or other, great guy and he sent me photos of the failed cartridge saying it was down to oil contamination and I needed to have  replaced all the parts listed in the pack they sent. I sent pictures of all the receipts from Merc for the parts and he looked further to be fair. I pointed out in the pictures the damage was on the shaft not the bearings/bushes and surely the bearings would fail first if they weren't being lubricated, not the damage to the shaft in the middle?

He agreed and sent me a new turbo.

[vaughant]

On 17/01/2026 at 09:25, Remspoor said:

Then there is a the adblue for some cars. Refills could mean a coding reset. All way to messy.

I just fill the adblue tank and the warning goes away? You must be talking about seriously early versions of adblue? 

Again millions of these cars/vans/trucks have been sold all over the world and very few problems given.l with the system by now.

I know in everyone's dream world we'd all still be driving XUD's and Ford 1.8td's but the modern stuff is also fine. 

I've just clocked over 200k in my Renner 2.0 DCI, still runs fine, no issues at all.

[St.Jude]

More bad news, and I know the answer is “send the fucker back” and I’m inclined to agree although I don’t agree either.

Rang garage to see if we are still on for tonight. He says “mate I’ve had a nightmare on this”.

Turbo is fitted, and when it started the oil pressure light is on. I will say right now the oil pressure light wasn’t on when I had it. He had the oil filter off and it was bone dry. He’s had the sump off which he said has been off recently, cleaned the pick up as it’s full of shit, tried again and the filter is still dry and the light is still on.

Has told me it’s likely the oil pump that’s fucked, which then necessitates a cam belt change. In fairness at this point, I’ve an invoice for that dating back to 2018. So, you know, it’s due I suppose.

I think it’s fair to say that seller knew this was a problem, possibly not as bad as what it is now, but it makes sense given a new turbo, pipes and a sump that’s been off. 

But then, the oil light wasn’t on when I left it at this garage. So that’s in my head too. Further to it, this work is then on their heads really. 

On one hand, yeah. I should just throw this back to them as has been said. But I will be out of pocket and without a vehicle, to then be still in this budget range and with a potential of having the same shit again.

However, in my mind the seller is paying for this to be sorted. Probably not the cambelt and pump all things considered, so I’m doing proactive maintenance on one part while the rest is remedied. It’d have a new turbo, belt, intercooler, all this mad shit done. What’s left to grenade? Injectors? Been there done that confidently myself mate.

And then I speak about budgets but sure haven’t we seen an £11,000 Citroen be reduced to scrap money because a belt fucked itself? Haven’t I paid £8,000 on a Land Cruiser that was a needy cunt? Yet didn’t I spend £2,000 on a Subaru that worked fine when I had it. Didn’t I have 6 months of joy and 9 months of welding practice on a £350 RAV4, and didn’t I have a wonderful time with a £250 Corolla that’s still going great guns in Scotland.

I’m of a belief now the budget doesn’t mean shit. Unless I buy the fucking thing brand new and look after it, that’s the only way I can guarantee a car that won’t fuck me financially. I look at my little Peugeot crying out for an MOT, 4 tyres and a battery. I can buy another A N Car and run this lottery of it shitting a gearbox or blowing an engine outside of any real guarantee and being even more in the hole.

So what to do? I tell you what I am going to do. I am going to get the car fixed. I am going to drive the cunt. I am going to get my £500 of my own cash post sale out of the fucker, at which point I’d imagine it’d be MOT time (runs out in October). Then punt it on as a camper conversion or some shit. I don’t know.

But I cannot be this fucking stupid surely? I heard a whistle from the front, then I lose power like this. No lights. No billowing black smoke from it while driving before hand. No blue smoke at all. I did everything as right as I could and I’m landed with a fucking nail.

Genuinely could fall in to a bucket of tits and come out sucking my own thumb at this rate.

[Remspoor]

14 hours ago, vaughant said:

I just fill the adblue tank and the warning goes away? You must be talking about seriously early versions of adblue? 

Again millions of these cars/vans/trucks have been sold all over the world and very few problems given.l with the system by now.

I know in everyone's dream world we'd all still be driving XUD's and Ford 1.8td's but the modern stuff is also fine. 

I've just clocked over 200k in my Renner 2.0 DCI, still runs fine, no issues at all.

Maybe this si the wrong thread to try an convince me about reliable diesels.😉

[St.Jude]

6 minutes ago, Remspoor said:

Maybe this si the wrong thread to try an convince me about reliable diesels.😉

Use it as an example of if I say do something - DO THE OPPOSITE!

[Remspoor]

10 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

More bad news, and I know the answer is “send the fucker back” and I’m inclined to agree although I don’t agree either.

Rang garage to see if we are still on for tonight. He says “mate I’ve had a nightmare on this”.

Turbo is fitted, and when it started the oil pressure light is on. I will say right now the oil pressure light wasn’t on when I had it. He had the oil filter off and it was bone dry. He’s had the sump off which he said has been off recently, cleaned the pick up as it’s full of shit, tried again and the filter is still dry and the light is still on.

Has told me it’s likely the oil pump that’s fucked, which then necessitates a cam belt change. In fairness at this point, I’ve an invoice for that dating back to 2018. So, you know, it’s due I suppose.

I think it’s fair to say that seller knew this was a problem, possibly not as bad as what it is now, but it makes sense given a new turbo, pipes and a sump that’s been off. 

But then, the oil light wasn’t on when I left it at this garage. So that’s in my head too. Further to it, this work is then on their heads really. 

On one hand, yeah. I should just throw this back to them as has been said. But I will be out of pocket and without a vehicle, to then be still in this budget range and with a potential of having the same shit again.

However, in my mind the seller is paying for this to be sorted. Probably not the cambelt and pump all things considered, so I’m doing proactive maintenance on one part while the rest is remedied. It’d have a new turbo, belt, intercooler, all this mad shit done. What’s left to grenade? Injectors? Been there done that confidently myself mate.

And then I speak about budgets but sure haven’t we seen an £11,000 Citroen be reduced to scrap money because a belt fucked itself? Haven’t I paid £8,000 on a Land Cruiser that was a needy cunt? Yet didn’t I spend £2,000 on a Subaru that worked fine when I had it. Didn’t I have 6 months of joy and 9 months of welding practice on a £350 RAV4, and didn’t I have a wonderful time with a £250 Corolla that’s still going great guns in Scotland.

I’m of a belief now the budget doesn’t mean shit. Unless I buy the fucking thing brand new and look after it, that’s the only way I can guarantee a car that won’t fuck me financially. I look at my little Peugeot crying out for an MOT, 4 tyres and a battery. I can buy another A N Car and run this lottery of it shitting a gearbox or blowing an engine outside of any real guarantee and being even more in the hole.

So what to do? I tell you what I am going to do. I am going to get the car fixed. I am going to drive the cunt. I am going to get my £500 of my own cash post sale out of the fucker, at which point I’d imagine it’d be MOT time (runs out in October). Then punt it on as a camper conversion or some shit. I don’t know.

But I cannot be this fucking stupid surely? I heard a whistle from the front, then I lose power like this. No lights. No billowing black smoke from it while driving before hand. No blue smoke at all. I did everything as right as I could and I’m landed with a fucking nail.

Genuinely could fall in to a bucket of tits and come out sucking my own thumb at this rate.

A bit of a bugger. I would be very very pissed off. I have already given my thoughts on this.

I have just looked at the MOT history and in recent years the rear seats have been removed. Have you checked all of the seatbelts in the rear work?

There a number on Autotrader at a similar price. 

 

[St.Jude]

1 minute ago, Remspoor said:

A bit of a bugger. I would be very very pissed off. I have already given my thoughts on this.

I have just looked at the MOT history and in recent years the rear seats have been removed. Have you checked all of the seatbelts in the rear work?

There a number on Autotrader at a similar price. 

 

Yeah I know. Believe me it’s very much in the front of my head, it’s not ignored.

The rear belts do work. All 3 of them. Though I put one belt back (the middle one) as it’s not needed.

And there are, I know. But again I’m gambling again that this doesn’t happen again.

[St.Jude]

No oil pump till 10am Monday. Hasn’t taken it out yet because why would he.

[vaughant]

5 hours ago, Remspoor said:

Maybe this si the wrong thread to try an convince me about reliable diesels.😉

Fair 🤣🤣🤣.

Still modern in this case is 17 years old 😱😱😱. They still look new to me 😬😬😬.

[artdjones]

Too late now, but once an engine develops several faults at once, the best cure is often a complete engine from a crashed car. If I'm looking for a car and some prospective candidate has just had engine work done, I don't buy it, because engines that have been taken apart very rarely seem to be as good as ones that are undisturbed. Even if the undisturbed ones have much greater mileage.

 

[vaughant]

5 hours ago, St.Jude said:

More bad news, and I know the answer is “send the fucker back” and I’m inclined to agree although I don’t agree either.

Rang garage to see if we are still on for tonight. He says “mate I’ve had a nightmare on this”.

Turbo is fitted, and when it started the oil pressure light is on. I will say right now the oil pressure light wasn’t on when I had it. He had the oil filter off and it was bone dry. He’s had the sump off which he said has been off recently, cleaned the pick up as it’s full of shit, tried again and the filter is still dry and the light is still on.

Has told me it’s likely the oil pump that’s fucked, which then necessitates a cam belt change. In fairness at this point, I’ve an invoice for that dating back to 2018. So, you know, it’s due I suppose.

I think it’s fair to say that seller knew this was a problem, possibly not as bad as what it is now, but it makes sense given a new turbo, pipes and a sump that’s been off. 

But then, the oil light wasn’t on when I left it at this garage. So that’s in my head too. Further to it, this work is then on their heads really. 

On one hand, yeah. I should just throw this back to them as has been said. But I will be out of pocket and without a vehicle, to then be still in this budget range and with a potential of having the same shit again.

However, in my mind the seller is paying for this to be sorted. Probably not the cambelt and pump all things considered, so I’m doing proactive maintenance on one part while the rest is remedied. It’d have a new turbo, belt, intercooler, all this mad shit done. What’s left to grenade? Injectors? Been there done that confidently myself mate.

And then I speak about budgets but sure haven’t we seen an £11,000 Citroen be reduced to scrap money because a belt fucked itself? Haven’t I paid £8,000 on a Land Cruiser that was a needy cunt? Yet didn’t I spend £2,000 on a Subaru that worked fine when I had it. Didn’t I have 6 months of joy and 9 months of welding practice on a £350 RAV4, and didn’t I have a wonderful time with a £250 Corolla that’s still going great guns in Scotland.

I’m of a belief now the budget doesn’t mean shit. Unless I buy the fucking thing brand new and look after it, that’s the only way I can guarantee a car that won’t fuck me financially. I look at my little Peugeot crying out for an MOT, 4 tyres and a battery. I can buy another A N Car and run this lottery of it shitting a gearbox or blowing an engine outside of any real guarantee and being even more in the hole.

So what to do? I tell you what I am going to do. I am going to get the car fixed. I am going to drive the cunt. I am going to get my £500 of my own cash post sale out of the fucker, at which point I’d imagine it’d be MOT time (runs out in October). Then punt it on as a camper conversion or some shit. I don’t know.

But I cannot be this fucking stupid surely? I heard a whistle from the front, then I lose power like this. No lights. No billowing black smoke from it while driving before hand. No blue smoke at all. I did everything as right as I could and I’m landed with a fucking nail.

Genuinely could fall in to a bucket of tits and come out sucking my own thumb at this rate.

Sorry but IMO once your start changing oil pumps I reckon you're at the point of its fucking fucked big time mate and I'd really consider nipping it in the bud and getting out of town.

I'd personally get out of it and get a better M59 with the 2.0 HDi in it, it's a far better engine and a more robust vehicle in almost every way. They really aren't that much less modern inside than yours either and surely half of Europe can't be wrong? 

£2k into one of those will get you a really nice one. 

I was told on here A/C is " incredibly rare on them" but not in my experience, I've had 3 and 66% of them had A/C 🤣🤣🤣, which ironically worked perfectly on both 😱😱😱. 

Usually if you get a modutop version, you've a much better chance of A/C, found a good few for sale with it.

I've currently got a 1.6 16V version for sale as spares and repairs and that engine is pretty good too,I think it survived into the shape you have as well so perhaps sell up and look for one of them? 

I will agree though that these are going up in value and I'm still not averse to fixing my own one as truthfully there's not a huge deal wrong with it but I can't seem to sell it without an MOT..... Despite it pretty much flying every one I've ever taken it for 🤣🤣🤣.

I had another from here through @Eavb purely for spares but it was actually so good I used it as well as the 03 plate one particularly in summer as it has good a/c.

That went through 3 tests under me and my mate I sold it too, never failed on anything bad, in fact I sent think it ever failed? 

That had a weird overheating issue (disclosed on purchase) that got worse in my ownership but was easily fixed by turning the interior heaters on fire 2 mins or so🤭🤭.

I cooked that perhaps 3 times, maybe more on the hottest day in summer 2023 in Bath by the bridge stuck in traffic yet it still came back to life after a simple rad flush and my mate kept it going for another 2 MOT's and used it everyday. 

They're hard bastards.

But it's your car, whatever you decide I'm sure we'll all be interested too see what happens next.

 

[vaughant]

4 minutes ago, artdjones said:

Too late now, but once an engine develops several faults at once, the best cure is often a complete engine from a crashed car. If I'm looking for a car and some prospective candidate has just had engine work done, I don't buy it, because engines that have been taken apart very rarely seem to be as good as ones that are undisturbed. Even if the undisturbed ones have much greater mileage.

 

100% my thoughts too, I almost always insist on hearing it running if I can and I've not been caught out yet on a used engine from memory. 

It's the oil pump that would scare me on this one... Why and how long has this been an ignored issue quickly fixed up for sale? 

 

[artdjones]

3 minutes ago, vaughant said:

100% my thoughts too, I almost always insist on hearing it running if I can and I've not been caught out yet on a used engine from memory. 

It's the oil pump that would scare me on this one... Why and how long has this been an ignored issue quickly fixed up for sale? 

 

I bought a late M59 1.6HDi during COVID, and it seemed fine during the test drive. But after a much longer drive the oil light started flickering at idle. It knocked slightly too. Once that was noticed I put in a mega mileage engine that ran well, and all was well.

[St.Jude]

55 minutes ago, vaughant said:

It's the oil pump that would scare me on this one... Why and how long has this been an ignored issue quickly fixed up for sale? 

Well there is this. But again, it didn’t throw a light when I parked it up. No mention or report of a light at any point up until now. The first light I got was when I was 10 mins away from the garage and it was the EML which threw up the EGR and Turbo, along with the anti pollution fault. From me getting it to this point it did 160/170 miles. 80/90 on the motorway, the rest A roads.

There is something that has played in my head and I had to re-read what I said above, and (I think) @artdjones mentioned two things previously regarding a cleaning procedure with these engines as linked and the injectors. But I can’t really tell even say I’m being right thinking this.

Wednesday I ring up for an update, bloke on the phone has been waiting for a pipe as it’s congealed behind the turbo. Possibly/likely oil return pipe. Should be good for Friday.

I call today and I’m told it’s NFG at the moment. And this is the key bit that is going round my head. They have fitted the turbo, put it together, started it and then they’re presented with the oil pressure light. They check the filter and it’s bone dry.

Then they take the sump off, and clean it. They comment it’s been off recently. There is crap on the pick up, and they clean that, but the light persists and the filter is dry. Then the oil pump is mentioned.

So at this point two things: doesn’t the clean procedure mention dropping the sump first? Can’t say that’s been done at the moment, only after the turbo has gone on. Secondly - what causes this failure? A quick google mentioned loose(?) injectors creating carbon.

When I called at 3pm for an update and I was told 10am Monday for the pump the Land Cruiser popped in my head. It never fucking leaves tbh. But when I did the injectors the whole cam case/cover was covered in caked on shit. Gloopy old oil looking like black bogies. Looked like my lads nose when he has a cold from nursery, but black.

I mentioned to him would it not be worth taking the rocker cover off and seeing the state of the top of it? He didn’t seem to think it was.

I explained to a mate my point of view after, oil spends its time at the bottom of the engine, only being thrown to the top when it’s on. When you turn it off the oil clings to the top, but if it’s hot and old then shit accumulates at the top and burns in or clags together. Then he mentions if the turbos fucked wouldn’t that have thrown swarf in to the oil on the return? Which the pipe is congealed.

So yeah, I have bought a nail. But now the thought I have is have I ended up bringing it somewhere who haven’t done this before and aren’t really sure themselves how to cure it?

It’s just fairly shit and amazingly lads this isn’t the worst thing to happen this week! No one dead or in hospital but even more infuriating/anger inducing than this. May have a thread for that too for cathartic reasons.

[rusty_vw_man]

I think it’s like this:

You buy vehicle. It has a new turbo. You drive it, and lose boost. 

You take it to a garage and find its shat its turbo again (potentially after a very short time). After replacement, you find that it’s not making oil pressure because the pickup is full of shite. 

Cleaning this and it’s still not making pressure, so oil pump diagnosed. 

Your question is what else could possibly go wrong if you fix this.

To me it sounds like it’s lunched a turbo, some of which has ended up in the sump. If there’s enough shit to clean off the pickup you’ve got to wonder where else it might have worked its way to - so you might get pressure with a new pump (and cam belt) but what’s to say the rest of the engine isn’t full of the same shite that’s blocking oil ways or contaminating crank bearings, big ends etc. 

You have a chance to walk away from this now with a possible loss, but not a total loss. I would assume that within the next 12 months you’ll be fixing a series of injectors, bearings, low oil pressure until it’s just new engine time or scrap as non-runner for big loss.

Dealer you bought it off tried a fix and flip but it’s still broken, I would take it back. Yes another one might be as shite, but you know this one really is…..

You do seem to have the worst luck with cars. Hope the other stuff that was worse is getting better! 

[St.Jude]

27 minutes ago, rusty_vw_man said:

I think it’s like this:

You buy vehicle. It has a new turbo. You drive it, and lose boost. 

You take it to a garage and find its shat its turbo again (potentially after a very short time). After replacement, you find that it’s not making oil pressure because the pickup is full of shite. 

Cleaning this and it’s still not making pressure, so oil pump diagnosed. 

Your question is what else could possibly go wrong if you fix this.

To me it sounds like it’s lunched a turbo, some of which has ended up in the sump. If there’s enough shit to clean off the pickup you’ve got to wonder where else it might have worked its way to - so you might get pressure with a new pump (and cam belt) but what’s to say the rest of the engine isn’t full of the same shite that’s blocking oil ways or contaminating crank bearings, big ends etc. 

You have a chance to walk away from this now with a possible loss, but not a total loss. I would assume that within the next 12 months you’ll be fixing a series of injectors, bearings, low oil pressure until it’s just new engine time or scrap as non-runner for big loss.

Dealer you bought it off tried a fix and flip but it’s still broken, I would take it back. Yes another one might be as shite, but you know this one really is…..

You do seem to have the worst luck with cars. Hope the other stuff that was worse is getting better! 

So what do I expect to get back from this? A straight refund on the car or the work done by this garage as well? It was on a PX, cash and credit card.

I need to find the advert again, I’ve a feeling it mentions it as a trade sale but I’m not 100% the receipts I have state that. I’m deffo not a trader anyway.

[rusty_vw_man]

https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/rejecting-a-car/
 

Start here - citizens advice can also help. As far as I can see seller agreed to find fix, so that is covered. It will be a fight but you do have rights at this stage.