A giffertastic Rover 45 - engine removal and autopsy

[N Dentressangle]

9 hours ago, High Jetter said:

Bet it's the w/pump

That or a cracked expansion tank as @Imhotep says.

Leave it idling and see if the leak reveals itself - it's coming out somewhere

[grogee]

Or pressure test? I've found pressure testing cooling system with engine off helps you find leaks, because you can hear air or water escaping then track down the leak. 

[RoverFolkUs]

11 minutes ago, grogee said:

Or pressure test? I've found pressure testing cooling system with engine off helps you find leaks, because you can hear air or water escaping then track down the leak. 

Oh yeah I should have said I did one ages ago and it was fine. Although the workplace provided one is knackered now and I haven't got my own 😅

[RoverFolkUs]

On 10/01/2026 at 00:29, Imhotep said:

Do these suffer the cracked thermostat housing the KV6s suffer? 
 

Also I know expansion tanks on these, like Rover 800s can be a pain. Might be worth getting it really warm and seeing if there’s a small crack opening up in the expansion tank when the car is warm. 

I've just replaced the thermostat and housing anyway because it wasn't getting up to temperature properly, so that's ruled out

Good point well made on the expansion tank, I did have it right up to temperature (105C) ensuring the fans were cutting in as intended after doing the above repairs and I couldn't see any signs of it letting go. Nor is there any residue that I could see around the tank

[The Old Bloke Next Door]

Had the same fault on a 1.1 K-series Metro, it was the expansion tanks joint seal had failed, ok cold, then as it warmed up would loose the coolant until it was up to temperature, a new tank solved the problem.

[Matty]

6 hours ago, The Old Bloke Next Door said:

Had the same fault on a 1.1 K-series Metro, it was the expansion tanks joint seal had failed, ok cold, then as it warmed up would loose the coolant until it was up to temperature, a new tank solved the problem.

Had the same on a Fiat Coupe. No obvious damage or leaks but a hairline crack in the expansion tank that opened up going up to temp then sealed again at full temp. Right bastard to find.

[RoverFolkUs]

Maybe I'll parts cannon a new expansion tank then if I don't find anything untoward under the timing covers, thanks all

[rainagain]

Worth trying one of those UV dye leak kits off Amazon? I used one to track down a weeping connection to a heater matrix in a Volvo that I’d never have found otherwise. 

[RoverFolkUs]

18 minutes ago, rainagain said:

Worth trying one of those UV dye leak kits off Amazon? I used one to track down a weeping connection to a heater matrix in a Volvo that I’d never have found otherwise. 

Oh blimey that's a good shout, just ordered a kit 

[Zelandeth]

If it's running the pink OAT coolant just a blacklight might help you find it as it is as it glows orange pretty well just on its own even without a trace dye.

[paolodivichio]

Is it leaking from the coolant elbow on the front of the head? There's a gasket that can go between it and the head that can leak. Also I haven't seen it mentioned, but have you tried changing the coolant cap as cheap ones can cause problems! 

I once had a leak like this after changing the thermostat housing, which turned out I hadn't seated the o-ring correctly when pushing it into the back of the water pump too, a new o-ring sorted it. 

[beko1987]

Can you rev the engine whilst being in the engine bay?

I got pissed off with a similar slow but there coolant leak in my old xm. I angrily revved the fuck out of the engine in mild anger one day and that caused the pinhole in the hose to open up. In normal driving the fine jet it sprayed evaporated by the time I could pull over to top it up.

Or add some bubble bath? The foam should make any leaks obvious and you can treat the rest as a coolant flush

[RoverFolkUs]

Well this car really knows how to twist the knife 😂

Treated it to a windscreen chip repair on Tuesday, this evening it decides to stall/cut out as I put the clutch down to change gear, then upon restarting I had a battery light in my face 😃

So it's eaten it's alternator. Wonderful

[sierraman]

Steel Seal to the rescue! 

[RoverFolkUs]

Pulled the timing covers and front pulley off, found a pool of coolant behind the engine mount bracket. Presumably it's hiding in there and evaporating without a trace. 

That explains where it's going then! 

Sadly it looks like OMGHGF is setting in anyway. There's some scummy oily residue in the expansion tank building up and I looked under the oil cap and there's a pretty horrific amount of mayo under there. At least it's oil and water mixing HGF instead of overheating etc...

Not decided on what to do just yet. I removed the alternator and took the voltage regulator off to find the brushes fairly worn, but there was still a bit on them. 

I don't think I've got any other option than to fix it. It's only worth scrap to anyone with head gasket symptoms 🤷‍♂️

I debated getting just a new voltage regulator for about £25 but it seems to be Chineseium, the next option is a Bosch one for £45 but then I've found a brand new Bosch alternator for £85 so as much as I'd like to repair it I think it would be a false economy. 

Still disappointing, but what else can I do 😅

[High Jetter]

8 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I don't think I've got any other option than to fix it.

You know it makes sense...

Good luck, hope it doesn't fight you too much.

[stuboy]

54 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I don't think I've got any other option than to fix it. It's only worth scrap to anyone with head gasket symptoms 🤷‍♂️

good luck

[grogee]

1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

That explains where it's going then! 

Sadly it looks like OMGHGF is setting in

K-series wet belt. 

Seriously though, what a PITA. Saying that, if anyone knows how to fix it - it's you. Shirley a gasket set isn't going to break the bank. 

If it were me I'd gamble on the Chinese alternator regulator too but I'm daft like that. 

[Matty]

1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Pulled the timing covers and front pulley off, found a pool of coolant behind the engine mount bracket. Presumably it's hiding in there and evaporating without a trace. 

That explains where it's going then! 

Sadly it looks like OMGHGF is setting in anyway. There's some scummy oily residue in the expansion tank building up and I looked under the oil cap and there's a pretty horrific amount of mayo under there. At least it's oil and water mixing HGF instead of overheating etc...

Not decided on what to do just yet. I removed the alternator and took the voltage regulator off to find the brushes fairly worn, but there was still a bit on them. 

I don't think I've got any other option than to fix it. It's only worth scrap to anyone with head gasket symptoms 🤷‍♂️

I debated getting just a new voltage regulator for about £25 but it seems to be Chineseium, the next option is a Bosch one for £45 but then I've found a brand new Bosch alternator for £85 so as much as I'd like to repair it I think it would be a false economy. 

Still disappointing, but what else can I do 😅

Thankyou react may seem a bit wierd. But buzzing youre going to mend it. Itll do you a good turn in return, that i dont doubt.

[RoverFolkUs]

Been a while since I've updated this one 

In the end I bought and fitted the new Bosch alternator. And promptly shoved the old one in the loft telling myself I'll rebuild it as a spare one day 😂 

I've not done much else to the car, it proved itself very useful and capacious when I had to transport my tools thanks to a career change 

Sadly someone reversed into the rear bumper (at low speed) last month which scuffed the paint and cracked the chrome trim - but this won't be a difficult fix and it's low down on the priorities right now. I've already managed to source a replacement chrome trim, which proved more difficult than I originally thought 😅

Now, elephant in the room. OMGHGF? 

Well, it's always been losing a little bit of coolant which I discovered was caused by the water pump. However I was also noticing a "scum line" in the coolant tank. Therefore, before doing a cambelt and water pump I wanted to be sure it didn't also need a head gasket otherwise I'd end up doing the same job twice. 

I've been driving the car around locally to monitor it, it has never once overheated, which is good, but with regular coolant top-ups and a bit of usage, it has confirmed.... 

Yep, definitely OMGHGF! 

Since it's not boiling up, I'm happy the liners should be ok and it should be a fairly straightforward repair. 

Coming soon then will be a head gasket replacement on this. I'm hoping to crack on with it later this month 

[RoverFolkUs]

Been a while since I've updated this one 

In the end I bought and fitted the new Bosch alternator. And promptly shoved the old one in the loft telling myself I'll rebuild it as a spare one day 😂 

I've not done much else to the car, it proved itself very useful and capacious when I had to transport my tools thanks to a career change 

Sadly someone reversed into the rear bumper (at low speed) last month which scuffed the paint and cracked the chrome trim - but this won't be a difficult fix and it's low down on the priorities right now. I've already managed to source a replacement chrome trim, which proved more difficult than I originally thought 😅

Now, elephant in the room. OMGHGF? 

Well, it's always been losing a little bit of coolant which I discovered was caused by the water pump. However I was also noticing a "scum line" in the coolant tank. Therefore, before doing a cambelt and water pump I wanted to be sure it didn't also need a head gasket otherwise I'd end up doing the same job twice. 

I've been driving the car around locally to monitor it, it has never once overheated, which is good, but with regular coolant top-ups and a bit of usage, it has confirmed.... 

Yep, definitely OMGHGF! 

Since it's not boiling up, I'm happy the liners should be ok and it should be a fairly straightforward repair. 

Coming soon then will be a head gasket replacement on this. I'm hoping to crack on with it later this month 

[RoverFolkUs]

It's dead, Jim  - A very sudden and mysterious death to this car

I went down this evening to tackle the head gasket job. Went to start the car to turn it around but it wouldn't go. Just a "click" - I assumed flat battery. 

Carried on stripping it down, and then hit a stumbling block. The engine wouldn't turn by hand to time it up!

I tried various things such as rocking the car while in gear, with the spark plugs out, but no, it's locked solid. Removed the starter motor incase that had somehow jammed against the flywheel. Again, no joy. 

Whipped the head off anyway, it's definitely the bottom end that's locked up. 

The liners feel like they're sitting flush with the block. I'm thinking either a liner has moved and jammed a piston, or a bottom end bearing has bound up, or spun. Probably the latter

No signs of oil starvation to the cams, no signs of scoring to the bore whatsoever. 

I'm utterly baffled. I last drove it last week and it performed fine. No untoward noises, no warning lights, no overheating. Simply parked it up and left it untouched until this evening when it had seized up. 

My options are to carry on stripping the bottom end down. God only knows what I might find. And then I might be in for a replacement engine. 

Sadly, I just don't think it's worth it. Rover 45s aren't desirable unless its a KV6 or diesel. 

I'm hoping someone might want to save the shell and swap their own running gear into it or perhaps do a 1.8 VVC or 1.8T swap. The shell has been garaged and it's low miles, it's the cleanest, most rust free 45 I've ever seen. It's almost literally immaculate as shown above. 

Oh well. Looks like it's the end  - not the outcome I expected 

[Anglevan]

Thats sad, wish I could save this, I'm sure my mate has a spare 1.8 engine !!! 

[RoverFolkUs]

16 minutes ago, Anglevan said:

Thats sad, wish I could save this, I'm sure my mate has a spare 1.8 engine !!! 

It would be an ideal donor for an engine swap, the shell is incredibly solid for a 45. 

I don't personally see the point of me taking a risk buying a second hand engine, I also don't have the facility to move or store an engine at home without hiring equipment to do so which would only add to the cost, and a standard 45 isn't worth very much. It would be an ideal shell donor for someone with a good running gear already, or someone who fancies a 1.8T or VVC project

[High Jetter]

You do need to know why, tho? You're an engineer, what's fucked it?

[Mrs6C]

2 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I'm utterly baffled. I last drove it last week and it performed fine. No untoward noises, no warning lights, no overheating. Simply parked it up and left it untouched until this evening when it had seized up. 

As you have had the OMGHGF, there will have been a bit of water sloshing around in the bores. It could be a s simple as a bit of rust has developed in one or more of them, across a big enough surface area to glue a piston and/or rings to the cylinder/s so that you can't break it free. That happened to the Sigma estate we have.

It was recommended to us to mix ATF with acetone (I think 50/50), pour that down the bores and leave it for a few days to free things. Along with a block of wood and a mallet to tap the pistons, that worked. You could try the same, as you have nothing to lose by doing so...

[RoverFolkUs]

32 minutes ago, High Jetter said:

You do need to know why, tho? You're an engineer, what's fucked it?

In a way, yes, but I feel I'm only going to start throwing good money after bad. Bog standard rover 45's seem to have a ceiling price. Now feels like a good opportunity to cut my losses. 

I could strip it down to investigate but that probably would involve having to remove the engine. I don't have the means to do that at home and it would cost the best part of £100 to have it transported to a workshop I could use. I may then find the engine is beyond economic repair if it's a spun bearing. Then I have to choose between scrapping it or fitting a second hand lump which comes with its own risks. 

If it needs another engine, it feels a good opportunity to offer it to someone who wants a shell for a 1.8T or VVC project, or they already have an engine lying around from a rotten or crashed car etc 

I've been itching for a change anyway as I quite fancy a 75

However, I'm not going to give up and scrap it as it is. If it can go to good use, great. If nobody wants it, I will be happy to delve further. 

[RoverFolkUs]

3 minutes ago, Mrs6C said:

As you have had the OMGHGF, there will have been a bit of water sloshing around in the bores. It could be a s simple as a bit of rust has developed in one or more of them, across a big enough surface area to glue a piston and/or rings to the cylinder/s so that you can't break it free. That happened to the Sigma estate we have.

It was recommended to us to mix ATF with acetone (I think 50/50), pour that down the bores and leave it for a few days to free things. Along with a block of wood and a mallet to tap the pistons, that worked. You could try the same, as you have nothing to lose by doing so...

That's a good shout - although I'd be a little dubious if they're so far able to withstand rocking the car with it in gear and it still refusing to budge. With it being a wet liner engine, it adds complexity because moving the crank with the head off can cause the liners to come detached from the block which would then be another headache. I appreciate the idea, and I agree it's worth pouring some slosh down the bores to see if it helps

[Mrs6C]

1 minute ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I'd be a little dubious if they're so far able to withstand rocking the car with it in gear and it still refusing to budge.

They do withstand such treatment.  It was two cylinders stuck on one bank of three in a V6 and they would not move at all. A very thin band of rust had spread out in a line around the lower edge of a portion of the piston crowns (being a 'V' the water had sat on one side of the bore) and it was grippy enough to stop everything moving...

[RoverFolkUs]

9 minutes ago, Mrs6C said:

They do withstand such treatment.  It was two cylinders stuck on one bank of three in a V6 and they would not move at all. A very thin band of rust had spread out in a line around the lower edge of a portion of the piston crowns (being a 'V' the water had sat on one side of the bore) and it was grippy enough to stop everything moving...

Understood!