1971 MGB GT - Engine is now cranking over correctly - see page 17

[tooSavvy]

.... RAIN!! & more soon....

GR9 hit on this 😉

🚙💨

[Peter C]

I got cosy behind the wheel, whilst it’s small, I can still see the dials ok.

 

[Mr Pastry]

1 hour ago, Peter C said:

The original flasher unit has two pins, the new one has three. Apparently, the third pin is an earth. Is it?

Not an earth, who told you that?  It is the feed to the warning lights on an earlier version.   You can use it in place of the 2 pin unit if you can ID the correct pins, how are they marked?  Canister does not need to be earthed.  I'd check the supply from the fuse box first though.

[Marina door handles]

Interesting wheel that, the metal part looks Mota lita -esque but the rim seems to be a bit fat for them. I like it, makes a change from the more common Mountney jobs (like my one). 

[Westbay]

Is it an 'optical illusion' or is that leading edge of the silencer a bit low ?

[Peter C]

58 minutes ago, Westbay said:

Is it an 'optical illusion' or is that leading edge of the silencer a bit low ?

[Noel Tidybeard]

flasher units can be a little fickle

[Rusty_Rocket]

I don't bother with traditional flasher units now, the modern (all Chinese) ones are hopeless, sometimes DOA.

Solid state alternatives, fit and forget -

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic?srsltid=AfmBOorkMLi-sBFEr1JN2Ij_YZNjh15RBeLTk2YheU1EmNWn7nf4_r5D

[RayMK]

1 hour ago, Rusty_Rocket said:

I don't bother with traditional flasher units now, the modern (all Chinese) ones are hopeless, sometimes DOA.

Solid state alternatives, fit and forget -

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic?srsltid=AfmBOorkMLi-sBFEr1JN2Ij_YZNjh15RBeLTk2YheU1EmNWn7nf4_r5D

In most cases, yes.  However, I found that the solid state ones don't like voltage fluctuation, particularly if it dips below 12Vdc.  Probably ok with alternator equipped cars but my dynamo and old fashioned voltage regulator equipped '61 Reliant kept having the solid state unit going off line until I discovered why.  A new voltage regulator did not fix it. The  cure was a bag of Chinese flasher units (3 off), one of which worked and got me through the MOT.  Still works several years later, admittedly with only very occasional use of the car.  

[Peter C]

My auto electrician friend supplied me with a brand new alternator. Nice!

Fitting it was a doddle.

With the alternator refitted, I tried to start the engine. It wouldn't fire due to a complete absence of any spark.

When my auto electrician friend came over to diagnose the electrical faults earlier this week, he disconnected the plug from the back of the alternator. At the same time, he pulled another wire.

A couple of days ago, I posted on an MG related Facebook group, asking what the spare wire is for.

One chap very kindly advised that it's for the coolant temperature sensor and 14 other lovely chaps agreed.

Seemed legit. Except all 15 of those lovely chaps were wrong. Turns out that the spare wire connects to the side of the distributor. 

Once the rogue cable was reinstated into its rightful position, the engine fired up immediately and ran ok. When cold, there was a slight hesitancy when the throttle is opened but after a minute of idling the engine idled and revved up smoothly. The remains of the old fuel don't smell great and I suspect that the engine will run better with a tank full of fresh petrol. I didn't want to drain the fuel tank as it's 50/50 whether the drain plug will unscrew or break in some spectacular way.

With the engine running, the charging system seemed to be working ok as the ignition light was no longer shining brightly. 

I replaced the brake lights switch. Again, when I asked for advice, the people of the MG group advised me to have another person in the car, pressing on the brake pedal to avoid air finding its way into the system, whilst others warned me of imminent brake fluid spillage on an industrial scale. I removed the old switch, working by myself, no air got into the system, no brake fluid escaped and the brake lights are now operational.

I cleaned up the fuse box and replaced the missing top fuse.

Front and rear sidelights and number plate lights came back to life.

Once the lights started working and all connections were good, the original flasher unit came back to life and the indicators are now fully operational. 

My wife helped me refit the bonnet. No matter how I adjusted the hinge bolts, I couldn't get the bonnet to line up with the wing on the passenger side. The bonnet was already like that when I bought the MG.

I noticed that the brake servo clamp was preventing the bonnet from shutting properly.

With a grinder, I shaved off the top of the clamp but the bonnet still wasn't right.

I suspect that the bonnet is bowed. 

The shape of the bonnet is wrong more or less where the support bracket is located.

Perhaps the bonnet got distorted whilst it was raised at some point?

Not to worry, this is a problem for another day.

I put the wheels back on and noticed that the nearside front brake was binding badly. I removed the pads, pumped the pedal and freed off both pistons. To my surprise, the pistons were shiny and clean, so hopefully easing them out has solved the problem, at least for now.

With the brake sorted and wheel refitted, I dropped the MG on the ground.

For now I've done as much as I needed to get the MG to safe driving condition. There is still plenty of work to do, including tidying up the interior, sorting out a carpet for the rear load area, getting the radio and speakers to work....  and various other little bits. 

I would like to take the MG for a maiden drive today but as storm Bert is up to no good, probably best if I wait for a dry day. 

The plan for today is to dust down and clean the bodywork (in the workshop) and clean the interior, including the dashboard and trim and, of course, I need to tidy up the workshop.

I will leave you with these photos for now.

More soon.

 

[jamescarruthers]

I cannot wait for you to get a drive in this. I take my hat off to you, you’ve made great progress. 

[loserone]

12 minutes ago, jamescarruthers said:

I cannot wait for you to get a drive in this. I take my hat off to you, you’ve made great progress. 

Same here.  I hope you don't hate it!

[Marina door handles]

Before you do take it for its first drive .... Have you greased all the important grease nipples? Most importantly of all the ones on the king pins? If the king pins are not greased the steering will be bastard stiff! I hope you do enjoy it, the drive not the greasing process..... 

[tooSavvy]

Plenty of lube, before you *slide in....

*behind the wheel 😉

Hats Off.... Top doings M9

🚙💨

[chadders]

My bonnet's a bit like that and has been since I had the front wings replaced in the 80s. The shut lines have been iffy from new though. It's only since I've had new sills fitted, for the second time, that the door apertures are good.

[Peter C]

4 hours ago, Marina door handles said:

Before you do take it for its first drive .... Have you greased all the important grease nipples? Most importantly of all the ones on the king pins? If the king pins are not greased the steering will be bastard stiff! I hope you do enjoy it, the drive not the greasing process..... 

Good point well made.

I don't have a grease gun. I intended to buy one from Moss Europe but I spent so much time worrying about the new exhaust system, I forgot to ask for a grease gun. 

I have ordered one from MGB Hive, should be with me mid week.

I have filled the radiator with water, no antifreeze. I intend to drain the system again after the test drive, flush it with fresh water, then add antifreeze. I will do the grease nipples at the same time.

[Peter C]

I cleaned the MGB with a waterless wax something or other, which I've had lying around for a couple of years. It actually did a decent job, the paintwork gleams again, although the MGB is still definitely a ten footer. 

The centre console would have made for a convenient support for me whilst exiting the bucket seat but, unfortunately, the lid was moving around too much.

I put a screw into the bottom of the lid and drilled a hole in the console. The screw fits into the hole, lid no longer moves around. Win.

I was hoping that WD40 would improve the patinated dashboard.

Apologies for the shit photo. The WD40 worked but I was hoping for a better result.

The MGB and the garage are now clean, I'm taking it easy for the rest of the Sunday afternoon.

Weather permitting, the maiden voyage will take place on Saturday.

More soon.

[tooSavvy]

What do you reckon to 'back 2 black' on the dash...🤔

*NoShineWoodShine

🚙💨

[Peter C]

19 minutes ago, tooSavvy said:

What do you reckon to 'back 2 black' on the dash...🤔

*NoShineWoodShine

🚙💨

Not sure, I don’t want it too shiny.

[Bmwdumptruck]

Looking really good.  You’re making me feel so guilty that mines sat in it’s lock up for so many years.  The last two or three years I’ve said to myself that my aim is to sell a few motorbikes to make room in my garage for it so I can start getting it going again.  Although I’ve no idea how bad it’s become since it’s been in storage. 

[N Dentressangle]

7 hours ago, Peter C said:

 the MGB is still definitely a ten footer. 

Doesn't matter at all. There are loads of concours MGB's with mirror paintwork, but this one's yours.

[N Dentressangle]

6 hours ago, Peter C said:

Not sure, I don’t want it too shiny.

Rust converter to turn it black, then Ankor wax maybe?

[2flags]

The important thing is to use it. You want to be able to pop down the shops, to perhaps take it to work on a nice day, to drop the kids off at their friends/activities and not be too worried about parking it. As had already been said, there are thousands of 'show queens' that only go out on sunny day to car shows then go straight back into the garage. Use it, enjoy it, have fun. 

[Peter C]

Test drive achieved! The weather has drastically improved since yesterday evening, the roads were mostly dry and I made time to pop to my local BP station.

Looking sweet (from ten feet)!

So, how does it drive? Better than I thought.

Engine - pulls nicely, doesn't smoke, sounds ok, maybe a bit tappety but that's easily solved. The oil pressure gauge doesn't work. The engine temperature gauge suggests all is well. The rev counter stopped working but I reckon that I didn't take the engine past 3,000 revs, no need as it has plenty of torque and old eight valvers don't like to rev anyway. When I got back home, left it to idle whilst I opened up the garage doors, the idle speed was too low. Hitherto, I set the carbs and ignition timing when static, more fiddling is required. 

Once I got above 30MPH, there was a strange hissing / radio static sound coming from the centre of the dashboard. Not sure what's going on, there is nothing rubbing or leaking. Needs further investigation.

The fuel gauge came to life on route home, which is odd as one of two cables that extends from the sender unit is disconnected (damaged terminal). Perhaps the disconnected cable is an earth and the sender is earthing itself via the tank? Anyway, nice surprise.

The gearbox works well, all gears go in smoothly, no crunching, all synchros are good.

The overdrive is supposed to work on 3rd and 4th gears. I flicked it on, whilst in 3rd gear, at about 35MPH, nothing happened. I didn't go fast enough to try it in 4th gear. Electrical issues? Or a knackered solenoid? 

Clutch take up is nice and smooth and the biting point is about half way up the pedal travel. Nice.

Steering. What a surprise!!! I was expecting heavy and vague but it isn't. Even with the smaller steering wheel, it is perfectly manageable and has no slop whatsoever. Nice. 

Brakes. A bit shit. The pedal still feels soft and has too much travel but once pressed down fully, the brakes work well, pull up straight. Maybe more air in the system? Maybe the master cylinder is not happy?

Suspension. Another lovely surprise. The ride comfort is great, it doesn't crash and bang down the road. All feels tight, with no rattles or knocks. Very nice.

Bucket seat and small steering wheel work really well together. The driving position is great, low but not sitting on the floor low and the steering wheel is placed perfectly at the right height. 

Overall, LOVE IT!!!! Yes, there are a few things that still need TLC but I managed six miles to the BP station and back without breaking down. Result.

I took a few more photos outside my house. What a lovely looking motor.

More soon!

 

 

[tooSavvy]

11/10..... Sharing every creak, M9 😉

UseItUseItUseItUseITTT.........

🚙💨

[danthecapriman]

Glad you like it. Makes all the expense and effort worthwhile!

It does look good. Tbh, it is possible to overdo car restoration and create something that’s unusable because you don’t want to damage/wear/get it dirty! Which obviously defeats the object. The way this car is, is perfect - looks great but is very usable.

Maybe worth spending (a bit more!) and treating it to a good cavity waxing though, just to give it the best possible chance against rust.

[Peter C]

I ❤️ the back end in this photo!

[Zelandeth]

The overdrive solenoids can be a bit sluggish to engage, especially when cold and/or haven't been used for a while.  So might well get better with some use.

Oil pressure gauge is an interesting one as they're mechanical...so not working suggests either it's not connected or it's just jammed.  The other option would be immediately obvious as there'd be no oil left in the engine by now!

[Mally]

Not cheap the oil/temp gauges, I've bought a few.

Seem to recall there is no oil light? I'd not run it  without the gauge if no oil light.

[chadders]

The overdrive can take some time to work if it hasn't been used for a while, in my case it's invariably a bit of dirt or whatever on the switch, it sorts itself out in time.

My revcounter needs a tap on the glass to work and has done for years.

At one stage there was a small speaker in line with the middle of the dash sort of behind the centre console. It might be tucked away behind it.