Putting some (s) miles on it: BMW E46 330CI Thread.

[Split_Pin]

6 minutes ago, camryv6 said:

Oil filter collapsing might cause issues too

Oil filter is brand new.

[camryv6]

Has it only done it since you fitted the oil filter ?

[camryv6]

Years ago i had a Vauxhall Carlton with an oil pressure gauge and the oil pressure was noticeably lower after doing an oil change, i had fitted a Fram filter, so i fitted a different make oil filter, i can't remember now what make  it was, i didn't touch the oil and the oil pressure was noticeably higher with just changing the oil filter. 

[Split_Pin]

No just since last week, I changed the oil at the beginning if the month. Could be worth a shout though but TBH if the sensor doesn't sort it then I think I'm going to bail. I've barely slept since the oil light started flickering and it's getting on my nerves (in a literal sense).

[Split_Pin]

2 minutes ago, camryv6 said:

Years ago i had a Vauxhall Carlton with an oil pressure gauge and the oil pressure was noticeably lower after doing an oil change, i had fitted a Fram filter, so i fitted a different make oil filter, i can't remember now what make  it was, i didn't touch the oil and the oil pressure was noticeably higher with just changing the oil filter. 

It was a 'Blueprint' Filter. I'm going to Euros tomorrow, so I might just pick one up and try it, since I essentially did an oil change with a free filter.

[camryv6]

Never had a problem with Blueprint, but i think it will be sensor, filter or oil related, rather than a knackerd engine

[Split_Pin]

Definitely worth trying the cheap fixes first. 

I did use Mannol 5w 30 but I've never really heard any bad stories about it.

[camryv6]

Worth checking nothing is in the oil filter housing too.

[Split_Pin]

1 minute ago, camryv6 said:

Worth checking nothing is in the oil filter housing too.

I'll give it a quick clear out with the Pela extractor to be sure.

[Popsicle]

27 minutes ago, camryv6 said:

Years ago i had a Vauxhall Carlton with an oil pressure gauge and the oil pressure was noticeably lower after doing an oil change, i had fitted a Fram filter, so i fitted a different make oil filter, i can't remember now what make  it was, i didn't touch the oil and the oil pressure was noticeably higher with just changing the oil filter. 

Our 2.0 Beetle floppytop is exactly like this. Every non genuine oil filter I've used has caused the oil light to flicker, genuine VW ones have been fine. Twice the price (£14 iirc) but still cheap enough not to worry about. Seems pretty common on the forums after some googling.

Obviously like @Split_Pin at the time I feared the worst, but its been fine over the years.

[Split_Pin]

I went for a Bosch one, hopefully that will be decent enough!

[Matty]

1 hour ago, Split_Pin said:

Definitely worth trying the cheap fixes first. 

I did use Mannol 5w 30 but I've never really heard any bad stories about it.

Can't believe it's oil. I've put gallons of Mannol through allsorts of cars. Any oils better than no oil.

[SiC]

I think these do prefer 5W-40 but tbh I'd be very surprised if it makes that much difference apart from burn rate. (Presumably there is oil on the dipstick!)

I'd have thought these cartridge oil filters have less potential for manufacturing fucks ups than spin on. No oil back flow valves or over pressure valves on them for two. (I.e. those bits are built into the housing itself)

Being these are hydraulic lifter engines and the Vanos needs oil to function, low pressure enough to trigger the light I'd thought it would be clattering it's head off. Still might be the engine (never say never) but I'd have expected more obviousness if it wasn't pumping oil fully up to pressure. 

[Split_Pin]

19 minutes ago, SiC said:

obviousness

Yeah thats a good point, I purposely had a listen in the drive when the light was flickering with the bonnet open and it sounded fine, no untoward noises at all.

So @captain_70s kindly offered to lend me his oil pressure tester which almost certainly has the right fitting, so I'll pick that up tomorrow night and check the pressure before I stick in the new sensor.

Theres so much doom and gloom on the FB pages and online in general about these and oil pressure. Folk are saying that its definitely fucked if you get any sign of a red oil light at all. Others are saying the 330 is prone to vibrating its oil pump nut off, with the usual choir telling me to check this as if the horrible subframe-lowering and sump removal was not even something to think about. Hopefully its not that, again I would have expected a racket from somewhere in the engine being starved of lubrication.

I wouldn't be so bothered but it does still need a gearbox as well so I've got to be sure the engine is fine before going to the trouble (and NorthernMonkey's) of changing it out.

Fingers crossed!

[SiC]

Maybe too soon but these two came up on my FB feed in the last few days...

 

[cort16]

I had this on a 318i auto and it was caused by the oil being thin as I don’t think it had been changed in years. it came out like Coca Cola . It only had 40 odd thousand miles on it too. I engine flushed it and changed the oil and it was fine . 

If the sensor  doesn’t work out then an engine flush may be worth a shot .

[Split_Pin]

10 minutes ago, SiC said:

Maybe too soon but these two came up on my FB feed in the last few days...

 

That came up on my FB feed last night except it was an E36. I could still relate to it 😂

[SiC]

Having a Google it does seem that many who use 5w30 end up having the low oil pressure trigger as it thins out too much when warm. 

Also seen people mention that a too low idle can cause it too. What's your idle speed when warm? Maybe the dodgy box or dirty/sticky Idle Control Valve is pulling it down further. From memory the M54 should be 700rpm (99% sure my Z4 sits at that). If it's been pulled down as low as say 500rpm then it will likely be getting too low especially with a thinner oil. 

[SiC]

A common "fix" seems to be to fit a motorbike pressure switch with a lower trigger pressure 😅

Many say take the pressure from the oil temperature sensor port as then you can check the light status and the real pressure. Supposed to be easier to get to as well.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2377775-M54-Oil-Pressure-Light

 

[Split_Pin]

Just now, SiC said:

Having a Google it does seem that many who use 5w30 end up having the low oil pressure trigger as it thins out too much when warm. 

Also seen people mention that a too low idle can cause it too. What's your idle speed when warm? Maybe the dodgy box or dirty/sticky Idle Control Valve is pulling it down further. From memory the M54 should be 700rpm. If it's been pulled down as low as say 500rpm then it will likely be getting too low especially with a thinner oil. 

I was wondering that as it does seem to idle at just above the 500rpm mark when in drive and I wondered if it was something to do with the gearbox. It isn't shuddering but it does seem a bit low for a petrol to idle at. 

[Split_Pin]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

A common "fix" seems to be to fit a motorbike pressure switch with a lower trigger pressure 😅

Many say take the pressure from the oil temperature sensor port as then you can check the light status and the real pressure. Supposed to be easier to get to as well.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2377775-M54-Oil-Pressure-Light

 

Yeah it's much easier, I actually took it out first as I thought that was it but it's got a small probe rather than the expected larger flat shiny sensor.

[SiC]

This is for the Z4 M54 but I'd be extremely surprised if these idle specs are any different to any other BMW M54.

My suspicion is that 0w30 is too thin with your idle too low if it's sitting at 500rpm. 

These are very smooth engines  - inline 6 is the smoothest config out there, so if all cylinders are firing it's likely to stay smooth even at lower revs. 

[SiC]

Also don't rely on the tach for real idle speed. Plug in an OBD tool. Doesn't need to be BMW, a generic OBD2 tool will be fine. While there, check the long term fuel trims - they'll give an indication on an air leak. Likewise disconnecting the MAF should do too. 

[Split_Pin]

Cheers Si, I don't think  mine is idling at 700rpm. It's got the correct 5w30 but maybe I should try 5w40?

[JakeT]

Feel free to ignore all that I say, but between me, my Mrs and my parents we had 4 M54s and put over 450,000 miles on them (we’ve had M50 and M52 also which are pretty similar).

The 3.0 M54 will loosen the oil pump nut due to poor crankshaft harmonics, as the design wasn’t really suitable for being taken to a 3.0 swept displacement (I think the 2.2 and 2.5 are a little sweeter but slower). But this only matters if you’re taking it to the redline all the time. A 330 cabrio with an autobox won’t be seeing that sort of usage so you’re fine. Also the engine would have blown up already and put a bay window in the block.

 

5w-30 should be just fine for them. All of ours took that and even at high mileage (over 250k) it was fine. They just burnt a bit due to the poor piston ring design and tired CCV systems. You can put 5w-40 or even 10w-40 in them and they’ll be fine, and burn less of it too. Fuel economy suffers though.

 

For low oil pressure symptoms the sensor can give problems, I think I said a friend had the same issue on his 330ci and a new sensor cured it. If it was genuine low pressure you’d know about it from clattering top end, or probable VANOS issues, as that runs on high pressure oil. Using a gauge is a good idea, and a new sender will probably see you right. 
 

As you (and SiC) are finding out, E46 (and the owners community) are a funny bunch. They look great, and the interior feels built better than anything else comparable at the time, but they funny niggles as they age cause so much aggro, and then owners groups give owners stick for them. Stuff like leaking coolant no matter what you try, ABS problems, Oiling issues and running issues, rust rust and more rust, interior electrical issues, and more. Bottom arm bushes being total shyte are a common thing too, especially on 18” wheels.

 

keep the faith though, you’ll get there with it. I owned a 325ti, a 328ci and a late 330d  sport and put probably 80k on them. None ever left me stranded either. I liked the petrol ones, and couldn’t get on with the 330d, and sold it to a cretin they crashed it as it never saw another MOT afterwards.

[Split_Pin]

Sage advice Jake and I can identify  with much of your experience already between this car and my 2.2 E60.

The engine does sound  fine so it feels like all is well, pending a pressure  check and new sensor!

Think I'll give the FB groups a swerve now!

[Dobloseven]

You jinxed the poor thing a few weeks back,when I said I'd got my eye on one abandoned round the corner from me!Told me how they're ten a penny and what a good one you'd bought.Shame on you! Seriously,hope you get it sorted and add to the pool of knowledge for them.

[NorthernMonkey]

Just change the sensor if you’ve got one on its way. As said elsewhere, if it really was low on pressure, the VANOS would tell you all about it.

[NorthernMonkey]

Bloody thing was fine with @HMCon the south coast.

Each time it gets further north, it complains!

[Split_Pin]

Got a new sensor now and the pressure testing kit. Just need the rain to go off (and to not have to go back to work!)