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kev's Fleet, TR7V8,Lotus Elan, Morris Minor, Range Rover, MX5, StreetKA and Fiesta


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Posted

Range Rover Passed MOT with the usual advisories (wax on brake pipes, rusty springs, slight fraying on seat belts and minor oil leaks)

Heated seats are also connected up and working on Fiesta.

After not being used for 4 or 5 months I also went and got the minor started, after a bit of input from the Rangie it started easily.

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I need to get it home and give it a going over, issues I know about are:  clonking from front somewhere, leaking rear dampers(have telescopic kit to fit), rear springs sagged (have a pair of Traveller ones), its losing brake fluid, smokes at idle . ( I think the last 2 may be linked via the servo).

There are also a couple of body bits which need doing before it heads up to my son in Scunthorpe, the paint on the roof is very thin in places, and there is the common issue of a crack at the waist line just behind the door.

As they are both doing 1000 miles a month a service for the fiesta and Street Ka are first on the agenda though.

Need to get the new wheels / tyres on the TR to.

 

Posted
10 hours ago, kevins said:

Range Rover Passed MOT with the usual advisories (wax on brake pipes, rusty springs, slight fraying on seat belts and minor oil leaks)

Heated seats are also connected up and working on Fiesta.

After not being used for 4 or 5 months I also went and got the minor started, after a bit of input from the Rangie it started easily.

IMG-20250125-WA0000.thumb.jpg.ef323be8f4c866d50ca2e83213bacea5.jpg

I need to get it home and give it a going over, issues I know about are:  clonking from front somewhere, leaking rear dampers(have telescopic kit to fit), rear springs sagged (have a pair of Traveller ones), its losing brake fluid, smokes at idle . ( I think the last 2 may be linked via the servo).

There are also a couple of body bits which need doing before it heads up to my son in Scunthorpe, the paint on the roof is very thin in places, and there is the common issue of a crack at the waist line just behind the door.

As they are both doing 1000 miles a month a service for the fiesta and Street Ka are first on the agenda though.

Need to get the new wheels / tyres on the TR to.

 

CALENDAR SHOT

  • Agree 1
Posted

went and had a look at the TR which also hasn't been used since well before xmas,  connected the battery, turned the key and hey presto.

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Thats steam not smoke!

Must get the wheels/ tyres done so I can take it for a drive..

  • Like 3
Posted

First class antics kevins, just caught up with a year's worth of your thread and it is highly rated.

11/10, with distinctions for the window ratchet and fiesta sill.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

spent a day on the Street Ka, its recently had plugs and brakes from a service point of view it was just an oil change, and check the oil filter.

For some time its had a stumble when you tip in from a light throttle,  as they are cheap I changed the throttle potentiometer.

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Had to remove the air cleaner and throttle body but all easy enough and went back together with no problems, not sure it's much better but its not any worse!

Also wondered about this in the aircleaner,

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seems to be a restrictor, left it in for now  but wonder what removing it would do.

 

next up was the grumbly rear wheel bearing, again easy enough, the bearing races were blued and the grease smelt rank, spindle and hub were fine though so easy enough job.

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fine afterwards.

finaly a simple one, the boot lid didn't rise and barely stayed open, new gas struts fixed that.

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Posted

one thing i forgot on the KA was this.

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the thermostat housing is leaking. its already been replaced once and the worst of it seems to be coming from between it and the block which probably has some corrosion, though looking a the photo the sensor on top seems to be leaking too.  It's not losing much coolant but you can smell it. As a temporary fix I've added a bottle of kseal, when its not being used again (probably easter daughter is trainee teacher)  I'll change the housing (not to  bad at around £50 for a new one).

 

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

k seal seems to have worked on Street ka, its done around 1000 miles since and not lost any coolant.

In fact its now being used even more simce my Daughters partners modernish mazda 6 seems to have shat a DMF.

I've ordered  a load of parts, bits to repair pas pump, new water pump., belts and fan hub for the range rover all the parts to do the cam belt  and a new air con condensor from rockauto for the mazda.  Range rover will be first as I plan to take it away on holiday for a week soon.

Between all the ongoing building work I did manage to get the TR out and fit the new wheels and tyres.

need to peel the MG stickers off the centres and paint them, might have a go at 3d printing some new ones with the TR7 or Triumph logo one day.

with new rather than a mixed set of ancient tyres it drives really well to.

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Posted

finaly got round to gettng the new tyres mounted and fitted the new wheels to the TR7

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with half decent tyres it also drives much better.

I also made decent clamp  for the battery in the boot and cleaned up some rust on the inner wing (low down in single skinned bit so will be a easy repair)

Next thing is to look at the starter(it has always been very slow to crank) weld up some pin holes in the downpipes and fix the gearbox leaks (or at least top it up for now)

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Street Ka clutch is slipping,  to much to do to change it myself and local guy only wants £175 to change it (I've already bought clutch at £105) so it going there next week.

one of the things I'm doing is building a block summer house round my daughters, needed some extra sand / cement (around 500kg) so Range Rover is doing sterling service .

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Posted

been doing a few odd jobs:

Noisy clutch pedal on the mazda was due to the rubber pad the clutch switch acts on disentigrating, £6 got a genuine mazda one which took seconds to fit.

Clutch has started slipping on the street ka, I've bought a new one and sent it to a local Mechanic to be fitted, lack of time and a bad back meaning I didn't do it myself.

Gave the Range Rover a good look over before we go on holiday in it, mostly good all the oil levels were ok, nothing broken, I did change the fan clutch as it didn't lock up when the engine gets hot and the front pads are worn(I have new discs calipers and hoses to fit so will need to do that when I get back)

Then we went out for a day in the Lotus.  It performed faultlessly even when stick in traffic for 30 minutes, the larger alloy radiator was a worthwhile investment.

parked at Frinton for a walk along the coast.

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Posted

image.png.54e8964c3d83bddda80e526020d8c633.png

Top tailgate envy :-) That's lovely and so un-rusty

  • Agree 1
Posted

Its a aftermarket alloy upper tailgate which I picked up secondhand for £50  a few years ago, I need to look at it though, the lock rods rattle inside the bottom channel.

On holiday in it at the moment, the tornado ECU might have cost a small fortune (£800) but it has transformed the way it drives, average so far is 19mpg even with using the A/C it used to strugle to better 13mpg. I have had one issue though , a worn out brake pad, I checked them before we left and it had about 4mm, assumed that would be OK for 300miles and then I'd fit the new discs, calipers and hoses I have on the shelf at home when I got back.

Got here in Norfolk and it started making metalic grinding noises. Fortunatelly we are near N&K 4x4 (highly recommended) and they had new pads on the shelf,  turns out this one has worn tapered, so while the visble top has lining the bottom edge is catching on the disc. The pistons went back in easily enough (i'd bought a couple of F clamps from screwfix too) so it was only a 15min job to fit the new pads and it's all fine again.

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

Really didn't like the alloy tailgate I had, it felt flimsy and didn't shut well, when we measured it one side piece was 5mm longer than the other!

At the moment I've grafted new steel into the better steel one I've got, been looking at how hard it'll be to remanufacture a bottom frame section. 

I've bought some steel, but not got much further 

Edit - N&K, I know it's an emergency but they only had britpart stuff last time I needed them, daughter MK2 lives in watton.

I tend to drive to Norwich and use JSF these days 

Edited by comfortablynumb
Additional
Posted

The pads were delphi, pins britpart. most of the stuff on the shelves was in blue boxes though. That said britpart does seem to be better than it used to (not difficult!).

The alloy tailgate fits ok, fixing the glass in with windscreen bonding glue made it much stiffer, it is much lighter though and it does need a fair shove to shut it.

the original was rusty all over the place.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

so what have I been up to, until a few  days ago not much on the cars but over the last week I've had a bit of a push.

Firstly the range rover, the waterpump occasionaly leaked, the viscous fan didn't lock up  and a couple of the 4 drive belts were looking a very tired.

Past experience has told me the long bolts which go through the front cover to the block and into the water jacket can shear and sure enough one did, that means I ended up taking the front cover off too.

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I was suprised it had been fitted with a duplex timing chain conversion, which had virtually no wear, I'm guessing it may also have had a cam as they usually go hand in hand.

I ended up drilling the snapped stud out and tapping it to M10, also had to repair 3 others which had previously been bodged.

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after that it all went back together easily enough with new hoses and a new viscous fan hub.

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planning to go away in a couple of weeks towing our small caravan hopefully no dramas after this.

Then I went and got this out.

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 A couple of issues to sort out, it was very slow to crank, the exhaust downpipes leaked through rust pin holes and I wondered if the gearbox had any oil as it was not leaking as much.

up on the 4 poster and the gearbox oil was fine, the slow cranking seemed to be a poor connection on the battery isolator, the downpipe had already been patched many times, and adding a few more bits of weld got it gas tight but what a mess.

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then I found it also had a significant leak at the downpipe to manifold flange, looking for new gaskets led me to spend £250 on a pair of new downpipes too in the end,   so waiting for those to arrive now.

If i get time tomorrow I may swap it with the minor and get that on the ramp to identify its ailments (I know one rear shock has gone and its losing brake fluid, also has some heavy clonks from the front and a leaking rear side window)

 

 

Posted

the other thing I've done is give the Mazda some attention, it was due a cam belt, the water pump has leaked for ages when parked and my wife wanted the aircon to work.  The problem with the aircon on these mk1 eunos is the condensor is nla, I eventualy found a U.S.  miata one was very similar and only £80 delivered to the UK from rock auto.  Armed with this a universal drier and some hose fittimgs from car builder solutions and a splice frpm Amazon U.S.  I set to.

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cam belt / waterpump went as per manual with no issues.

 

old condenser was pretty knackered though

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new one fitted directly to the cbs drier at the top and had to be spliced to the original hose at the bottom, I made a new #6 rubber hose to join the drier to the car feed line.

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(pic is upside down red splice is at bottom new hose is cpming from drier at the top) To be honest I wasn't expecting much but it held a vacuum so I introduced some R290 (otherwise known as Propane) as a trial to see what happened.  Lo and behold it worked and after 6 weeks still is!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

spurred on by the above I set to fixing the only significant body issue, rust holes in the bottom of the wing where the mudflap once was.

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next made a masking tape 3d template

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set to some steel til I had this.

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welded it in

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primed, stone chip and topcoat.

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then as a treat I gave tje dull patches on the door and bonnet a going over with the polisher

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We have also splashed out on new tan leather seat covers, just need to get round to fitting them.

 

 

Posted

Don't know what it is about land rovers, I've had V8 bolts go like you did, and on my 200 TDI they did too, and when MK1 son was doing a cambelt on his mates 300disco, that did it as well!

Like you say, past experience, you just come to expect it now🙄

Posted

I don't think the bolts they use are great quality, took very little force to shear it and there didn't seem any corrosion at the fracture point.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

time for an update, mazda sailed through MOT, only 2 advisories, minor oil leak (very minor, doesen't drip and from rear crank, not taking gearbox out to probably not fix it anyway) and weeping front damper which I spoted  when I changed the brake pads, probably change them over the winter and pull both arms of to derust and paint.

Used the Range rover to go on holiday in, approx 600 miles, half of it towing the caravan,  behaved its self, only issue was getting the caravan to fit, the Alko hitches need a spacer otherwise they hit the towbar.

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It averaged around 20mpg,  used no oil but did need a water top up but hasn't since which makes me think it might have had some trapped air after the pump change.  A couple of existing issues to fix, the instruments randomly rise by 1/4 of gauge travel, a new voltage stabaliser was easy enough to change and seems to have fixed that.

 

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It must also be the tacho driver because that reads more sensibly now.

Exhaust has a small blow when cold since I changed the autobox,  driving through a flood when we were away didn't help,  some paste and new clamps seem to have fixed that.

Other issues still to fix are heat in the passenger footwell and juddering brakes ( have had new discs, calipers and hoses on the shelf for 3 years better fit them).

Also noticed some nasty looking corrosion where the inner wing joins the passenger footwell, not too difficult to cut out and weld but a lot of wiring and AC being close to it may be a problem.

 

Street ka also needed a new exhaust and at the same time I cleaned up and treated some rust on the back of the petrol tank. not sure what to do about the spare though, can't think waxoyl is a great idea. 20250715_100132.jpg.cfe0eabe736e87b6f33f752fd8c174a6.jpg20250715_115640(0).jpg.8314bfa6d2094fa4f1978b4382af2241.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...
Posted

been a while, fleet update is

Street ka MoT'd only thing it needed was tyres, one failed on a cut and the others were getting towards the end f their life, I also finaly wired the heated screen in the hardtop up and gave it a coat of underbody wax.

Used Piggy back fuses rather than cut into the loom.

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Also had a go at polishing up the headlamps as they were a mot advisory.  Right done, left to do.

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TR7V8 used for a few days, ride is still awful as the rear crashes through so I've bought some stock springs to try, also welded up some pin holes in the downpipes but they are really past their best so I've  got some new ones to fit. Next spring my Son is having it so I want go sort all the odd little things out over the winter.

Lotus Elan., just been driving it.

MX5 , mostly been driving it, took off the loud stainless exhaust and fitted a standard mild steel one,  much nicer to drive any distance now,  got new leather seat covers to fit.

old exhaust, ready for scrap man.

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Range Rover, still going well, just been away in it with 400 trouble free miles at around 20mpg.  Before we went away one downpipe snapped, replacement fitted easily enough but it is now leakimg around the manifold flange. Should have checked it more thorougly stupid me for assuming a new part would fit straight on!

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finally the minor, been busy on this, replacement traveller 7 leaf  springs,  telescopic dampers and poly bushes on the rear. currently fitting new poly bushes on the front and raising the ride height one spline as its only a few mm off the bump stops.

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Ride height with new rear springs, happy with that.

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Also fitted a speedi sleeve to the axle as the hub seal kept leaking.

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Posted

Speedi sleeve. Wow, ive used them at work but never in that small an application. Generally we prep a seal land in a lathe, metal spray and then grind back to a size. Not really an option for most of us with the car job mind.  Good to know SKF are doing this stuff for automotive.

Posted

East sussex minors sell them for virtually every leaky seal on the minor, I've also fitted one to the crank pulley on the TR7V8 a couple of years ago which seems to have stemmed its incontinace.

Talking of which, used it for the 20 mile drive to my Daughters, it was great this morning roof down in the outside lane of the A12. When I left it was pouring, new hood didn't leak, new tyres actually gripped decided the A12 at rush hour wasn't  for me so came back via Maldon,  still going great when I got there and put 18L of fuel in. 2 miles down the road it started to run rough, found it was OK with the choke out but smoked like a chimney.

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Got home Ok, by the smell of the exhaust I think I've put diesel in it didn't get a receipt so can't check.  Not the end of the world on something like this, I'll drain it out and all should be well, worst case I guess It will need new plugs and a fuel filter.

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

someone sent me this.

 

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Seems some idiot at Morrisons thinks its a bright idea to stick bright green advertising the same colour as the unleaded on the diesel pumps! might explain how I messed up.

Anyway, thats all history, I've been busy on the minor, all the front bushes replaced with poly.

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Found the cause of the knocking under braking, the brake caliper bracket bolts had lost tension (I'd removed them in picture) , I think it was due to paint, so I cleaned all the paint off and fitted new high tensile bolts.

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Also tried adjusting the torsion bars up one spline but it was too high so I've put it back where it was and  I'll have a go at using the intermediate adjuster on the centre crossmember.

Today I looked at the dissapearing brake fluid, as there were no external leaks and we've always had an issue with white smoke at idle I theorised it could be the servo.  Took it off today and this is what was inside it.

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at least half a litre of brake fluid, it looks like my theory was correct.  For now I have just joined the two pipes together and I'll see what its like without a servo.

Next up is to fit the new engine mounts I have made based on mx5 ones.

  • Like 3
Posted

Easy mistake to put the wrong nozzle in with them both having the green sticker.

I always have a panic on filling with vpower unleaded, the vpower diesel looks similar at a glance. 

Posted

Took minor for a quick drive today,  new bushes and rear springs/dampers have  vastly improved the way it drives/handles, compliant yet corners well in a way many modern cars don't manage.  Brakes need a servo though, they do work but don't inspire confidence. I could fit something like greenstuff pads but a servo doesen't cost much more and will mean is can use any pattern Corsa pad. 

Posted
3 hours ago, kevins said:

Took minor for a quick drive today,  new bushes and rear springs/dampers have  vastly improved the way it drives/handles, compliant yet corners well in a way many modern cars don't manage.  Brakes need a servo though, they do work but don't inspire confidence. I could fit something like greenstuff pads but a servo doesen't cost much more and will mean is can use any pattern Corsa pad. 

Servo? I don't think they had one, BITD

Posted

Didn't have front discs either. Because the discs don't self servo they really need a servo, A smaller master cyl is another option but it has a beetle dual circuit one which in its self is smaller than the original and there doesen't seem to be a smaller bore one.

Posted
2 hours ago, kevins said:

Didn't have front discs either. Because the discs don't self servo they really need a servo, A smaller master cyl is another option but it has a beetle dual circuit one which in its self is smaller than the original and there doesen't seem to be a smaller bore one.

Ive got a Mini dual circuit master midget discs and greenstuff pads on mine. Stops well for what it is in my opinion. Takes some ridiculous amount of miles to bed the pads in but after that i really reckon theyve improved stopping power. Ive heard yellowstuff are better though. Either way a cheaper thing to try first before going down the remote servo kit route.

Posted

Greenstuff was the thing that  really made a difference on my elan when I deleted the servo (after 3 attempts at fixing it).

There is another reason for the servo, I only have it on the front circuit, this fixes the brake imbalance and makes the fronts lock first (though more grippy pads may fix this too). Also its my Sons car and he drives a new Focus with ridiculously sensitive brakes so having the servo is less of a shock. (if it was mine I'd probably persevere with the servo delete).

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