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ULEZ Expansion Solution* - Skoda Estelle , Czech it out


wesacosa

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so in the cold light of day, how's it looking

Well ok I think.   Threw a bucket and sponge over it but nothing more. Paint is pretty grim but it looks good wet so hoping it might polish up better than it looks now . picture below is wet!

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Found a little bit of grot I didn't notice before but hasnt gone all the way through 

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The bit of grot I did notice in the engine compartment is a little worse for poking (why did I do that?!) but don't think Its a disaster as its pretty localised and even the car I viewed for £1200 more than this was going a bit around there

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I have also changed the manky rear lights for a better but not perfect second hand pair I sourced. pattern replacements are available new but they don't have the cool made in Czechoslovakia stamping!

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. Looking through the history its done most of its 29000 miles between 1990 and 1994.  I know it was laid up from some time in 90s until about 2011 when it was recommissioned. Its had new coolant, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines and other bits and bobs in 2011.  Its only done 3000 or so miles since. Main issue is all of the coolant hoses look original as it water pump etc so going to need a fair bit of recommissioning again

so am I pleased with it?  Yes, I think so. It seems solid in all the right places and the bits of rust I found don't seem too bad. sills, arches, inner wings etc all look ok. To be truly sure I need to polish up the paint and see how presentable it looks and get the MOT done to be fully sure.  only real question is if I paid a bit much for it.  They are so hard to value at the moment but I have a sneak feeling I perhaps did.  That said its in much better condition than the one @barrett and I viewed last year for same price (although that was a 130 so more saught after). Its also straight, original, low mileage, not rotten , has all five alloys recently professionally restored and the seller did pretty much hold it for me from January until May whilst I ummed , ahhed and then agreed to buy when I couldn't collect it for 3 or 4 weeks. So I will forget about the cost now and try and get it MOTd as soon a possible 

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Speaking of the green hoses - don't forget there's one which joins the bottom halves of the fuel tank around the central tunnel.

That often gets missed when the rest of the car are changed, with predictable results.

Someone had changed that on my orange one... unfortunately they'd changed it for a piece of heater hose...

Tail lights will polish up with some elbow grease, but are about as fond of staying that way as the rest of the paint work.  My Rapid was this colour and it had to be the worst paint for oxidising I'd ever come across.

A well sorted example does drive really well though.  Always surprises me how smooth and rev happy the engines are for a relatively old fashioned OHV design.

I'd probably buy and keep a head gasket in stock if there's no history of it having been done vaguely recently (seems especially common to be an issue with cars that have sat around).  Plus side is that it's only a few hours work to change so long as it's not warped and the most specialised tool needed is a torque wrench.

Check that the seal on the coolant expansion bottle is present and in good shape - otherwise you can end up in a situation where water boils in the head and stops circulating under heavy loads.  

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15 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Speaking of the green hoses - don't forget there's one which joins the bottom halves of the fuel tank around the central tunnel.

That often gets missed when the rest of the car are changed, with predictable results.

Someone had changed that on my orange one... unfortunately they'd changed it for a piece of heater hose...

Tail lights will polish up with some elbow grease, but are about as fond of staying that way as the rest of the paint work.  My Rapid was this colour and it had to be the worst paint for oxidising I'd ever come across.

A well sorted example does drive really well though.  Always surprises me how smooth and rev happy the engines are for a relatively old fashioned OHV design.

I'd probably buy and keep a head gasket in stock if there's no history of it having been done vaguely recently (seems especially common to be an issue with cars that have sat around).  Plus side is that it's only a few hours work to change so long as it's not warped and the most specialised tool needed is a torque wrench.

Check that the seal on the coolant expansion bottle is present and in good shape - otherwise you can end up in a situation where water boils in the head and stops circulating under heavy loads.  

thanks. is the seal on the expansion bottle in the cap or is there another seal

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2 minutes ago, wesacosa said:

thanks. is the seal on the expansion bottle in the cap or is there another seal

Standard pressure cap setup with a flat rubber seal on the cap which sits against a shoulder in the bottle.  

Irked me that a £2 part had been skimped and wound up causing me a whole bunch of headaches.  Granted that pretty much set the tone for ownership of that car when it barfed half the contents out of the cooling system on the journey home.

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Great purchase. Much envy. I have three reasons why.

My mum and dads hippy mates had two of these  when i was a kid. Jim always had one on the road because he was a mechanical genius and had two. I learnt a lot from this man.

Stock pile. They'll be exempt soon enough.

Back lights. So sexual that they have an actual clit. 

As you were.

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19 minutes ago, Rustybullethole said:

Great purchase. Much envy. I have three reasons why.

My mum and dads hippy mates had two of these  when i was a kid. Jim always had one on the road because he was a mechanical genius and had two. I learnt a lot from this man.

Stock pile. They'll be exempt soon enough.

Back lights. So sexual that they have an actual clit. 

As you were.

when it's up and running you are welcome to pop around and have a look 

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3 hours ago, tooSavvy said:

I understand the 'Jerkoff' carb can be, err, *finessed for poke....

*Relative term 🤣

Weber can be slapped on, webbiemining of old Skoda forum postings would be somewhere to look

🚙💨

As I was saying ....

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500903-weber-3236-dgv-on-a-74212x/

Maxspeedingrods 'chinesium Weber clones' are to be had for under a ton...

🎱👍

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haven't done too much on the Estelle this week as I have had some horrible bug since I got back from holiday last week.  Got the carb off last weekend but haven't started to strip it down yet

Today I thought I'd make a start on some other jobs. First up there is a water ingress issue in the passenger side. There is a small cap between the quaeterlight glass and frame in the door which may be the cause but the heater pipes run that way too so its the passenger footwell which takes the brunt when they leak

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Got the carpets out. The under carpet foam is completely saturated so there is a lot of water in there.   Looks like no damage to the floor thankfully so will bail it out and get some rust converter down on any bits that look suspect.  A fair bit of orange/brown gloopy stuff, not sure if that's is coolant system sludge or something from the carpets

Second job was the previous owner said the fuel gauge wasn't working. I whipped the sender unit out to see if it was stuck ( it wasn't) so now need to test resistance and if all ok clean up the terminals and refit.  However I did notice the fuel tank is completely dry in the area under the sender.  Could it be that the broken fuel gauge and poor running/idle are due to it being out of fuel ?!  I am guessing not as the previous owner has been running the engine up a bit even though its been off the road for a while, but I guess its not out of the question.  I didn't follow my usual advice I give to people to check the simple stuff first. Probably should have stuck a tenners worth in before I had the carb and sender off.  That said I'm sure a carb check and service after 7000 miles in 30 years probably isn't bad plan anyhow 

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I think the fuel sender is dead. Its a bit of an odd one as its an old school looking manual variable resistor. Haven't quite figured out how it works. Seems there is a connector from the gauge to each end of the coil but no connection to the moving wiper (think that's the name) . The earth prong also touches the windings of the coil

Gave up on the resistance test and just plugged it in and moved the arm back and forth. light goes on and off but gauge doesn't move. 

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My GCSE electronics knowledge was a long time ago so will likely just buy another

Checked the pipe @Zelandeth mentioned but no sign of leaks. I still find it hard to believe the small gap in the quaeterlight could lead to so much water but can't find anything else obvious.  Forums seem to suggest the quaeterlight dropping is a common issue as its only held in by the seals so will try and fabricate some support or use a wooden prop

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  • wesacosa changed the title to ULEZ Expansion Solution* - Skoda Estelle , Czech it out
On 5/12/2023 at 8:40 PM, wesacosa said:

yes indeed.  Welcome to AS to this very late G reg Skoda Estelle 120 5 speed in regal red.  Its was old couple owned from new then off the road for a number of years. Recommissioned in 2013 but has only done about 1000 miles since and off the road since late 2021.  Its all solid straight and original with only 30k on the clock and minimal rust, but the paint has seen better days . Interior is good apart from the rear seat tops

Runs and drives but roughly 

 

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Wow, I'm up to my oxters (armpits) in nostalgia as I had an E Reg 120L 5 for around 2 years about 30 years ago, bloody loved it! Mine was the redder red whatever it was called. Near where I lived there was a junction a bit back on itself and uphill, many a happy tail out on a wet day was had pretending to be Jonh Haughland. It was a bit hard on rear wheel bearings funnily enough!

If I recall you can help the handling with SAAB 900 shocks, unfortunately I can't remember if it's front or rear shocks. Anyway I look forward to reading about this beauty's revival.

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@wesacosa... "Forums seem to suggest the quaeterlight dropping is a common issue as its only held in by the seals so will try and fabricate some support or use a wooden prop".

Travelling along in my Rapid coop, I hear a loud 'crack' and the ns 1/4 shattered (no glass actually came away). No idea what did it.

I stopped at a Skoda breakers (yupp.... Then a thing 🥳) and bought a new triangle.. guy let me take it out of a scrapper and charged me 50% dealer price. Glass = Glass ✔️

Unscrewed front edge windy window guide & slotted it in 😎.

ahh..... them dayzz 👍😉

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mate had one too learn too drive in, but he was rubbish at hill starts, he killed the battery as was facing up hill, i was in my subaru estate,  his stepdad says can i push start with it, yeah off course, so off we go and he still not starting the rapid, so we stop, his stepdad gets out angry as hes frustrated says can i give it more welly, off course.. all was moving till learner mate failed to bump it, que me stoving the rear panel in, and mates stepdad  going mental at his stepson..

sadly no pics... but google makes it all rose tinted like.....

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1984-skoda-rapid.webp

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owned 2 1/2 of these, a 105 povo spec, 130lse ranger topper and I think the 1/2 was a 120 (rear end to attempt to make a trike)

the 105 was poo brown...the 130 was White - but log book stated green?????? cant recall the colour of the 1/2 think it was baby blue-ish!!

Loveed the 130 surprised a few festa owners and around bends was great fun

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Need to make a number plate decision. The car is still wearing its dealer plates which is nice, however they are a bit tired so would like to replace them with replicas and save the originals as part of the cars history. 

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As a number of Estelles seem to have been at the time it's fitted with an oversized rear plate .  I have to say I'm not massively keen but it is original fitment

So do I get my replica made up in original size or go for standard size 

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32 minutes ago, wesacosa said:

Need to make a number plate decision. The car is still wearing its dealer plates which is nice, however they are a bit tired so would like to replace them with replicas and save the originals as part of the cars history. 

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As a number of Estelles seem to have been at the time it's fitted with an oversized rear plate .  I have to say I'm not massively keen but it is original fitment

So do I get my replica made up in original size or go for standard size 

 

I was going to say 'I'm not a number plate worshipper: go for standard size,'  and searched for a rear end view of all of my Skodas to attach, showing off their smart standard sized plates.   Oh.  Well maybe go with the original size 😀.

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13 minutes ago, RayMK said:

I was going to say 'I'm not a number plate worshipper: go for standard size,'  and searched for a rear end view of all of my Skodas to attach, showing off their smart standard sized plates.   Oh.  Well maybe go with the original size 😀.

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nice. I saw a 105S spotted on Facebook group in Chiselhurst in that colour recent, wonder if its the same one

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I doubt it.  Much to my regret that one was scrapped by me in 2006 or thereabouts  when its engine was extensively damaged by an errant nut which dropped past the carb butterfly and locked the engine. The car also needed structural welding despite its smart appearance, this all occurring, as ever, when my youngish family was financially demanding.  Kids or multiple Skodas?  Tough choice,  but my wife helped me make the decision.   

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In other news I think I have found source of water under the carpet. Looks like the pesky cooling hose that runs inside the car transmission tunnel from engine compartment to either heater or rad (not sure yet) seems to be where its coming from Judging by the water in the transmission tunnel area 

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2 hours ago, wesacosa said:

In other news I think I have found source of water under the carpet. Looks like the pesky cooling hose that runs inside the car transmission tunnel from engine compartment to either heater or rad (not sure yet) seems to be where its coming from Judging by the water in the transmission tunnel area 

The pipes in the tunnel are metal (at least were on mine) though there is a hose running between the riser where it comes out and the heater matrix which can (and do) leak.  

Indeed can let go when you're doing 70 and douse your left ankle in scalding hot coolant.  Wakes you up quite effectively that one.

If it's still present, be VERY careful removing the plastic shield that covers those hoses, they were incredibly fragile and nigh on impossible to find intact 20 years ago when I got my first Estelle.

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