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I Should have run away


STUNO

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2 hours ago, Jon said:

For all the mention of the 3.6 versions on here, I'm happy to say that this is the 3.2 version (in 2003 launch year) - a relief, as I forwarded a Rock Auto link for the 3.2 cam belt kit!

But in double checking this detail on Carjam, I found out it was imported from Japan in 2011 and in 2014 received the much coveted and highly respected number plate BIGJEF.

Said large Geoffrey is obviously a connoisseur of highly regarded All American sedans (with German underpinnings), as he transferred the plate in 2016 and has been wafting round since, in a 2007 diesel 300c.

Class in a glass.

I had initially thought that it was ex Singapore, but found later it was Japan new. I had assumed that as I could not find any Handbook that the Jap. language one had been tossed. But  I found a something odd HIDDEN in the glovebox and pulled it out. It turned out to be a leather pouch with the handbook and another book on the details of how to use everything  and all in english. So very happy about that ! Also discovered that it appears to have every option fitted and they all work--so far.

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Just had a visit from @STUNO and I can now say I've driven a Cadillac. Due to cam belt roulette (new one yet to be fitted), the emphasis was more on waft than pedal mashing progress but it all seems very acceptable for what is shockingly a 20 year old(!!) niche car.

We also got to work on the sunroof drain tubes, after a YouTube tutorial to help us gain access at the exit end. All the trim came apart and was put back together without any lost bits or breakages and 3 of the 4 drain tubes were cleared, where previously they were all blocked.

 

20230413_120226.thumb.jpg.896c553e02c50155562d547fb9fcc135.jpg

That was the state of the NSF tube - mega blocked. Cleared easily enough and gushing resulted.

 

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Apologies for upside down image but the 4th drain tube (NSF) had a bit of tape covering it. Thinking it was a great idea to remove and test, the A pillar cover then got soaked - so we dried it off and put a fresh new bit of tape on - 3 out of 4 will do for now.

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4 hours ago, Jon said:

Just had a visit from @STUNO and I can now say I've driven a Cadillac. Due to cam belt roulette (new one yet to be fitted), the emphasis was more on waft than pedal mashing progress but it all seems very acceptable for what is shockingly a 20 year old(!!) niche car.

We also got to work on the sunroof drain tubes, after a YouTube tutorial to help us gain access at the exit end. All the trim came apart and was put back together without any lost bits or breakages and 3 of the 4 drain tubes were cleared, where previously they were all blocked.

 

20230413_120226.thumb.jpg.896c553e02c50155562d547fb9fcc135.jpg

That was the state of the NSF tube - mega blocked. Cleared easily enough and gushing resulted.

 

20230413_120233.thumb.jpg.ea1fca52051c3d3d2e1f7b5c67edd11c.jpg

Apologies for upside down image but the 4th drain tube (NSF) had a bit of tape covering it. Thinking it was a great idea to remove and test, the A pillar cover then got soaked - so we dried it off and put a fresh new bit of tape on - 3 out of 4 will do for now.

A huge thanks  to @Jon and excellent coffee too! The sunroof problem is consigned to history.  3 drains working will be quite enough to do the job. I was pleasantly suprised how easy it was to get at the drain tubes and poke about to clear them. the roof itself worked as it should and closed properly so I assume someone had been playing with it while it was just sitting about for many months.It goes in to have brakes and wheel bearings done  by a real mechanic on Monday as there was a noisey bearing and one brake was binding, it seems ok now but checking is best.

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Thank you for not drilling a hole in the floor. The 4th drain is probably the rubber/plastic hose that came off the stud it slides onto. If you are lucky you only need to unclip the A-pillar trim and push the tube back onto the stud, definitely worth having a look as the tape will not last forever.

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2 hours ago, Schaefft said:

Thank you for not drilling a hole in the floor. The 4th drain is probably the rubber/plastic hose that came off the stud it slides onto. If you are lucky you only need to unclip the A-pillar trim and push the tube back onto the stud, definitely worth having a look as the tape will not last forever.

Let it be noted that I was happy to proceed with gentle persuasion of the A pillar trim to do just that but got the kibosh from the owner, probably on the basis that he'd be lumbered with finding replacement unobtanium bits, should I have messed up!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Correct Jon. However today I got the car back from my friendly mechanic after suffering from an oil leak round the filter and low oil pressure. He found that the person who did the last change very nearly destroyed the engine. The wrong oil filter had been put in and was not doing anything. It was just sitting in the housing unattached and also causing low pressure warnings  and engine fault light warnings. The oil was also leaking badly  from the filter housing which had been improperly replaced without the O ring. He has recommended I get a new filter cap as it is a bit damaged. He also did the rear brakes which had been failed at the test when I bought it. He found nothing wrong with them or the axle bearing they failed it on, but checked everything and fitted new pads. He is also a WOF (MOT) tester so passed the car.  There is now only a small cooling water leak to find and all will be done. I also found a sticker under the bonnet which announced that the cam belt had been changed and is not quite due for the next, so that can be put off for a while.  I shall sleep well tonight !

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8 hours ago, STUNO said:

And as the result of the above, have you any suggestions as to the best way to remove oil stain patches from the concrete garage floor ???

I've got some degreaser and a pressure washer that I can bring round and test out?

Works well on my driveway but our concrete has a rough finish - if yours is smooth, it may not be so effective?

Bullet dodged on the oil filter! The workings of the guy you bought it off?!

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  • 3 weeks later...

An update..... at last.  We decided to fit new pads to the rear brakes, bad move, the calipers reacted badly and decided to seize up. The only solution was to fit new ones or send them for rebuilding. So  rebuilt ones were ordered from Rock Auto. Ordered at midday on Friday and delivered on Tuesday at midday.

So round to the mechanic, oh dear, closed up and off sick for at least a week. I waited a week and when I spoke he said it would be another week before he caught up with work so bring it in next Saturday. That was yesterday and I left it there with the new calipers and more pads. got it back today at midday all fitted and the discs skimmed too . It made a huge difference to drive, I had only been able to get it from home to work with the brakes holding it back (a 5 min + journey) for 2 weeks. A 1 hour drive today was a pleasure, so now there is only a small radiator leak to be fixed. And speaking of leaks the weather has been very wet and water got in round the sunroof and through the mechanism into the headlining ( see various owners v GM for the lawsuits) so a bead of sealant has been applied round the roof and it is now dry inside in heavy rain. I don't miss the sunroof so quite happy.  I will probably get a set of front calipers as they may be bad too with a change of pads ! Interestingly there was a surcharge of US$21 per caliper which I would love, but it will cost more than that to return them so will put them in the spares pile.

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On 30/04/2023 at 12:26, DSdriver said:

Kango hammer and readymix? Or maybe try kittylitter first (as recommended by recovery truck driver when my Citroen XM was picked up.

Fairy liquid and cat litter, has always worked for me. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought my problems were over for a while, but of course the car fought back.

It started to leave a pool of green liquid on the ground every time it was left alone, so I made some enquiries with radiator repairers. their reply was simple and uniform,  GO  AWAY ! (or something suggesting similar). They don't repair these days without large amounts of cash handed to them, and anyway the plastic top and bottom tanks are unobtainable. So a new radiator is currently on its way from Indianapolis for a reasonable price, It was listed as "last in stock" by the manufacturer and was  less than others listed by quite a bit. It should be here early next week. 

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  • 4 months later...

Just a small non-update on this. NOTHING AT ALL HAS BEEN DONE ! The new radiator is still in its box and has been joined by radiator hoses. The problem is that it starts instantly every time and has still only been leaking about 1/4 of a pint a week. The roof being sealed up has meant that all is dry and warm inside. Even the brakes are working well.  Everything works except cruise control which is on its second time off working, so it may start again any day ! I rarely use it so not very worried about this.  Another discovery was an almost unreadable service sticker under the bonnet which announced that it has had a cam belt change and is not quite ready for another yet. Still needs to be done but now not desperately.

Apologies for not having to spend hours and $$$$$$'s fixing bits to keep you all amused. I just enjoy the drive!! 

 

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On 6/2/2023 at 11:26 PM, Schaefft said:

Always buy from rockauto/ebay US, "specialists" and importers often have horrendous mark ups.

I bought 3 oil filters from Rock auto for about $10.50nz for the lot plus freight. The local places have them at $72.00 each. 

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