Toledo 2000TC

[N Dentressangle]

Proper halogens will look much better than those nasty LEDs. I've had good results with Halfords 200% brighter H4 bulbs.

[leakingstrut]

The LED’s will be gone soon, I’ve got some h4’s to fit into the standard headlights. They’ve been in the boot for a while now, it’s just not been a high priority as I’ve not been planning to drive it much till the gearbox is done.

Cue my Freelander doing typical Landrover things, and the Toledo being pressed into commuting duty and not having time to swap the lights because I’ve got a daily to bodge fix.

[leakingstrut]

Progress has definitely slowed, having hit a few snags getting it back together. First I hadn’t got all the bolts I needed for the gearbox adaptor, but I was able to find some suitable metric ones.
 

With that sorted, the starter top bolt was a pain. On the old gearbox it was bolted in (I think) but the adaptor plate had studs, however this meant getting a nut onto the stud between the starter and manifold. As is typical we thought it would be easier to leave the manifold on and blindly try and get the nut on. Of course I hadn’t checked which bolt would best fit before fitting the plate. Three hours, three bolts and trying (then failing) to use two phones and a video call as an endoscope I got it on in the dark as we were giving up for the day. 
 

Today, full of hope I got the adapter plate torqued up and we tried to fit the gearbox. The old one came out no bother, but of course this one is longer. After a few failed attempts I consulted the forums and found it couldn’t be done without dropping the subframe fully or partially. FFS if we’d done that at the start of the job it would have made a lot of things easier, but I thought we could manage it with it in place.

So after some head scratching, not wanting to drop the subframe for the last bit of the job we jacked up the back of the engine, and with mm to spare and careful manouvering we got it in. Then I put the new exhaust / gearbox mount bushing on the wrong way round, no wonder it was a pain to fit. We called it a day there. 
 

Lessons learned, but we are getting there slowly.

Oh, and the rear drums are siezed on. Really hoping to get them off, but also pricing up halfshafts, backing plates etc. 

Edited November 30, 2022 by leakingstrut

[leakingstrut]

Drums on the new old axle are off, gearbox is in, new engine mounts on and clutch is bled.  Had a few more shitemares - the prop was touching the trans tunnel even after putting the rubber mount the right way round. Turns out the gearbox mounting plate I had reused was offset, fitting the one that came with the sprint box fixed that. Still a little offset due to the tr7 engine being at a different angle to the sprint one. If that becomes an issue I'll fit a sprint subframe. 

We've ran the engine sans prop, it sits nice and solid in the new mounts with minimal movement. If there is 10mm of gap on the tight side of the prop, it's moving 1-2mm max. New engine mounts are smooth aside from at idle, where the car properly shakes. If the tach is reading right idle is at ~1500 rpm and has always been a bit lumpy and shook at idle but this was previously taken up by the wobbly engine mounts. I'm taking it over to a friend who knows carbs better than me to check that out at some point. It was on axle stands on the subframe so that probably made it rougher. Clutch pedal feels great, shifter action is so much better with the sprint box than the 1850 one. Offset on the knob doesn't bother me. First time using an easibleed, what a difference that makes, especially was we ended up bleeding the clutch 4-5 times for various reasons. It's well flushed out at least. 

Hoping for no issues with the axle swap, mounting hardware at the back looks brand new. Plan is to get it in storage by this weekend as I'm pretty busy until Christmas, so it just needs to be driveable not necessarily finished. 

[leakingstrut]

Car is now theoretically drivable. But has no gearbox cover or diff oil. The latter due to a stuck drain plug. Temporary fix might be to squeeze it in from the breather.

We did spend a while today fabbing a gearbox cover - mating a sprint shifter end  from a rusty sprint one to the one that came off the car. I was very happy with it till I realised the clutch slave was catching it. More fettling is required, but I wanted an access hatch for clutch anyway, so it’ll be a big one with a lump.

 

I’m aware the paint is a bit shit (and only covers the bit we modified) but it should do. Lack of sparky stick means we went with rivets and sealant. 

[SiC]

Is the sprint gearbox tunnel cover different to the others? I was hoping to use my Dolomite 1300 carpet in my Sprint!

[leakingstrut]

I’ve  got three quite different tunnels , one unknown that came with the car , but probably Toledo seeing as the paint matches the shell. One probably 1850, and one sprint (which was too rusty to use).

I got the 1850 and sprint ones from Alun, the plan being to stitch a usable one from the two. I test fitted the 1850 one to see what modifications were required, but most of the top section was too low. The Toledo one was a lot closer, but was too low / don’t line up at shifter. Seeing as it was closer I used that one. 

I don’t have a continuous carpet, but a mix of off the shelf and custom cut bits so I’m hoping it all fits. But given that the Toledo gearbox cover was only off by an inch here or there the carpet might *just* fit, even if it was a standard carpet. I think it might just fit over the box but the biggest issue would be that the shifter is about and inch backwards and toward the driver. The sprint hole is bigger so gives you a bit of wiggle room. Not sure if having a single or three rail box changes starting the position. 

 

 

 

[GMcD]

Yeah, most of the carpet was missing apart from the mid section around the tunnel. The rest of it was from a roll and made using CAD* and doing the edging badly using my mother in-laws sewing machine.  I think there was some carpet roll left in the box, but I'm not sure how much. 

[SiC]

The sprint has a tray and trim over the gearbox area so hopefully that will be hidden in my car anyway. I'll just cut the wombles nose off the carpet. 

[GMcD]

I think there was a tray too in the box?

I had it in place then took it out as it didn't sit that great. Maybe it might now with the tunnel being tweaked?

[leakingstrut]

If you hadn’t told me I’d have thought the whole carpet was off the shelf, it looks great. 

I do have a tray, but I had to cut off the Mount for it when I modified the gearbox cover. I kept it, so it can be refitted. I’ll chuck it on and see if I like the look. 

[M'coli]

14 hours ago, GMcD said:

Yeah, most of the carpet was missing apart from the mid section around the tunnel. The rest of it was from a roll and made using CAD* and doing the edging badly using my mother in-laws sewing machine.  I think there was some carpet roll left in the box, but I'm not sure how much. 

Cardboard Aided Design...?

[leakingstrut]

Between starting a new job, getting a brutal cold and the festivities, progress has been slow. However the car is now back on the road, albeit with a few niggles to sort. New gearbox and clutch feels great! 

[leakingstrut]

 

That’s it all tucked up in storage. I’m going to leave it there while I acquire a few more bits and prep some electrical bits. I’ll take it out for a bit when there is some more light in the evenings to get the final bits done. 
 

Clutch is a bit noisy, so might need to come out again. Overdrive isn’t wired up as I need to redo the wiring. LED lights are still in, and I need to get a nut welded on the diff to get the stuck drain plug out (we filled it from the breather). 

 

Ripped the bootlid off the daily. £260 for a bit of plastic! Got a whole boot for £110 delivered and hopefully the wiper will be working - mine hasn’t for years. 

[Crackers]

25 minutes ago, leakingstrut said:

Is that shared storage or do you have any connection to the fire engines and ERF in the background?

[leakingstrut]

 

6 hours ago, Crackers said:

Is that shared storage or do you have any connection to the fire engines and ERF in the background?

Dundee Museum of Transport, £36 a month. Access requires 48 hours notice and I can’t work on it there, but it’s dry and secure so I can’t knock it for that price! 

[GMcD]

26 minutes ago, leakingstrut said:

 

Dundee Museum of Transport, £36 a month. Access requires 48 hours notice and I can’t work on it there, but it’s dry and secure so I can’t knock it for that price! 

Absolute bargain! You'll struggle to even get a council lockup roundabout that price. 

[Crackers]

1 hour ago, leakingstrut said:

 

Dundee Museum of Transport, £36 a month. Access requires 48 hours notice and I can’t work on it there, but it’s dry and secure so I can’t knock it for that price! 

That is a Billy bargain, great find.