Dyslexic Viking's vehicle fleet.

[Dyslexic Viking]

5 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

You need to check the voltage regulator, item 6.  Possibly just dirty contacts in there, or a bad earth.

Maybe a stupid question but wouldt there be no charge of the battery if there was a fault or poor contact on the voltage regulator?

[Zelandeth]

Worth checking the lamp wattage - quite often the one for the charging light was a higher wattage than the rest of the dash lamps - if one of a lower wattage was fitted you could end up with a situation where it would still remain visibly lit when it should be off.

Same lamp holders as Skoda used in the Estelle on there.

Does the brightness of the lamp change with engine speed or electrical load?

I had an issue on one of my Skoda's where one of the rectifier diodes had failed.  This didn't take out the charging system (but I'm sure did badly hurt it's efficacy), but resulted in the battery light glowing more brightly the higher the engine revved.  Took me a while to figure that one out.

[Dyslexic Viking]

7 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Worth checking the lamp wattage - quite often the one for the charging light was a higher wattage than the rest of the dash lamps - if one of a lower wattage was fitted you could end up with a situation where it would still remain visibly lit when it should be off.

Same lamp holders as Skoda used in the Estelle on there.

Does the brightness of the lamp change with engine speed or electrical load?

I had an issue on one of my Skoda's where one of the rectifier diodes had failed.  This didn't take out the charging system (but I'm sure did badly hurt it's efficacy), but resulted in the battery light glowing more brightly the higher the engine revved.  Took me a while to figure that one out.

Thanks for the suggestions then I will also check the light bulb in both the old and new instrument panel. And have not tested if the intensity of the light changes with engine speed or load on the electrics but I can do that.

And it is not surprising that this has the same lamp holders as on Skodas of the same age as they probably share some parts and constructions. This one also has the same lubrication on the water pump that I think I have seen on some Skodas.

[Mr Pastry]

2 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Maybe a stupid question but wouldt there be no charge of the battery if there was a fault or poor contact on the voltage regulator?

You are quite correct, but where are you measuring the voltage?  If the warning light is on, you may be seeing an output voltage at the dynamo but it won't be getting to the battery if the regulator or cutout are faulty.   I will try and find a detailed description and post it later,

As said it is worth checking the wattage of the warning lamp. 

[Dyslexic Viking]

12 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

You are quite correct, but where are you measuring the voltage?  If the warning light is on, you may be seeing an output voltage at the dynamo but it won't be getting to the battery if the regulator or cutout are faulty.   I will try and find a detailed description and post it later,

As said it is worth checking the wattage of the warning lamp. 

I measure on the battery. And you do not have to find it yet. For now I have received many good tips so know where I can start. Thanks for the help.

[Mr Pastry]

@Dyslexic Viking  This is more complicated than your system as it has a current regulator in addition to the voltage regulator and cutout, but the working principle is exactly the same. The Dynamo Control-box (mgb-stuff.org.uk)

[Dyslexic Viking]

Today has been a frustrating day with the Zetor tractor. To start with the charging light I can not see anything clearly wrong with the voltage regulator, light bulb for the charging light is 2w it is the same on both old and new instrument panel but all the other bulbs are also 2w. So should I switch to a bulb with a slightly higher watt? 5w?  But that's what I got done with this today.

The other thing I wanted to do was change the oil pressure sensor to the one that belongs to the new oil pressure gauge. This meant that I had to loosen the starter and move it away a bit. But then things went wrong, both sensors should have 1/8 thread but the old sensor has clearly coarser threads than the new one so the new sensor will not be screwed into the block. So then I just had to put the old sensor back and am not sure how we are going to do this as would love to have an oil pressure gauge on this one.

But today's biggest problem and frustration the water pump has started to leak a lot so it needs to be replaced. This means that I have to disassemble almost the entire cooling system again and more to change it and to top it all off, the tap on the diesel tank has also started to leak so it also has to be replaced.

But got to film some of the tractor that was wanted by some of you. Just need to figure out youtube.

[Dyslexic Viking]

After a lot of swearing and anger management and giving up youtube, this is the best I have managed to do. And is 2 this is 1.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Zetor video 2. I had to shorten them down a lot to get them uploaded directly to the forum. And this one has a special engine sound since is 2 cyl diesel.

[junkyarddog]

Oh yes,

That's the sound I remember 😁

That starts really quickly.

[Dyslexic Viking]

4 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

Oh yes,

That's the sound I remember 😁

That starts really quickly.

Yes it is a special sound like it a lot. And it is very easy to start, which is nice. Hope it's like that in the winter too.

[junkyarddog]

6 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Yes it is a special sound like it a lot. And it is very easy to start, which is nice. Hope it's like that in the winter too.

It is a very unique sound,it was extremely common here,but now it's all monster John Deere and other huge tractors that really are too big for the narrow single track roads where I live.

[Dyslexic Viking]

8 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

It is a very unique sound,it was extremely common here,but now it's all monster John Deere and other huge tractors that really are too big for the narrow single track roads where I live.

Is the same here too. Zetor sold well in the 70s and 80s in Norway but not anymore. Now there are just big tractors of more expensive brands.

[junkyarddog]

On 5/30/2022 at 8:05 PM, Dyslexic Viking said:

Is the same here too. Zetor sold well in the 70s and 80s in Norway but not anymore. Now there are just big tractors of more expensive brands.

Just taken a few mins ago, these things are huge and fast,towing a massive trailer for hauling round bales of wrapped silage.

Too big for this narrow road.

[Dyslexic Viking]

41 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

Just taken a few mins ago, these things are huge and fast,towing a massive trailer for hauling round bales of wrapped silage.

Too big for this narrow road.

 

Yes this looks too big for the roads. But it makes me wonder if the fields have really become so big that such tractors are needed? I understand that a larger tractor can be more efficient but there is a limit and it gets too big.

[junkyarddog]

1 hour ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

 

Yes this looks too big for the roads. But it makes me wonder if the fields have really become so big that such tractors are needed? I understand that a larger tractor can be more efficient but there is a limit and it gets too big.

There isn't any really big farms around here,but with unpredictable weather and a short season,it's get as much done as you can in the shortest time possible.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Today there was water pump change on the Zetor after the old one started leaking.

Started with moving the radiator a bit and then disassemble everything in the way and then removing the old water pump.

The old water pump looked better on the inside than I thought. There are also some small differences between new and old water pump but nothing that matters. The biggest difference is that the new water pump does not have refillable grease lubrication like the old one.

The new water pump is from the brand called Long Life which I have never heard of and can not find anything about so do not have much faith in this but hope it can last a few years. The pulley that came with it was so cheaply made that I chose to use the old one. And then the assembly of the water pump.

And then the assembly of the rest.

Will fill the cooling system with coolant tomorrow and I hope I do not get any leaks. I also going to hold on to the old water pump and overhaul it once I have time and then have it as a spare.

The second thing I got done today was to change the angle drive to the wire that drives the tachometer and hour meter. Also replaced the wire.

Since I work slowly and want to do the job properly all this took 6 hours. Tomorrow the plan is to hopefully complete the diesel system.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Got a little more done on the Zetor tractor today.

Started by replacing the copper washer on the tap of the diesel tank and it seems that it has stopped leaking now. The next thing I did was to install a new water separator since someone had removed it earlier then I also got the rubber hose shorten and made it look better.

The next thing I did was to protect the body and slow down the rust. There are several ways I could do this but chose to apply Fluid Film. I applied this as one would with a car wax, applied it left it on for a while (longer than wax) and then wiped away the residue. It also brought out the color better which is visible in the picture below.

And the result was very good and after I had wiped away the remnants of Fluid Film it was completely dry and clean to touch. But unfortunately someone has applied spray can primer on the bonnet that does not look good and rust is coming through so it must be painted before winter.

 

So now this is almost done. If I do not get any leaks on the cooling system or the diesel system the big things are done. Then there are only small things left like greasing, figuring out the charging lamp and other things.

[Dyslexic Viking]

A little Zetor update. Today it was put to work with pallet forks to move pallets with firewood. Have a small diesel leak that I am struggling with, changed the bulb for the charging lamp from 2w to 4w it did not help anything and is still lit so changed back to 2w I do not understand any of this. The cooling system has no leaks and the new water pump works. But we got a new problem we forgot to test the 3 point and there is something wrong with it. Is a bit complicated to explain but after talking to specialists there is probably an internal hydraulic leak. This is a lot of work to fix and is complicated so this needs to be done by professionals. This will most likely be fixed and by the local tractor  mechanic is not sure when but will most likely be after the summer holidays.

[Mr Pastry]

22 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

changed the bulb for the charging lamp from 2w to 4w it did not help anything and is still lit so changed back to 2w I do not understand any of this.

Have you checked the dynamo itself in isolation from the rest of the system? 

Don't do the following unless you understand it, but this is the procedure for a Lucas dynamo, taken from a BMC manual.  The voltages for yours may be slightly different.  In effect it bypasses the control box and runs the dynamo at full power, so it needs care: 

Disconnect both wires from the dynamo, and secure them safely where they will not make contact with anything.

Connect the two dynamo terminals with a short length of wire.

Connect a voltmeter with a 20 volt range, between either of the two terminals and a good earth on the dynamo casing, such as a mounting point.

Start the engine and increase the speed slowly.  Watch the voltage.  The voltage should rise rapidly and without fluctuation.  Do not let it rise to more than 20 volts and do not let the dynamo run faster than 1000rpm.  Do not race the engine to try and increase the voltage.

If there is no reading, check the brush gear.

If the reading is low , around 1 volt, the field winding may be faulty.

If the reading is around 5 volts the armature winding may be faulty.

 

It is worth checking the brush gear as a first step anyway, as a bad contact here could cause the light to stay on.

HTH.

 

 

[Popsicle]

2 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

A little Zetor update. Today it was put to work with pallet forks to move pallets with firewood. Have a small diesel leak that I am struggling with, changed the bulb for the charging lamp from 2w to 4w it did not help anything and is still lit so changed back to 2w I do not understand any of this. The cooling system has no leaks and the new water pump works. But we got a new problem we forgot to test the 3 point and there is something wrong with it. Is a bit complicated to explain but after talking to specialists there is probably an internal hydraulic leak. This is a lot of work to fix and is complicated so this needs to be done by professionals. This will most likely be fixed and by the local tractor  mechanic is not sure when but will most likely be after the summer holidays.

Liked for the fact its working - sad for the issues you've got.

[Dyslexic Viking]

51 minutes ago, Popsicle said:

Liked for the fact its working - sad for the issues you've got.

Thanks. Yes it is sad and frustrating but it will be fixed in the end I hope and the tractor will be very good when we are done and can provide many years of service after this so it is worth it.

[Dyslexic Viking]

2 hours ago, Mr Pastry said:

Have you checked the dynamo itself in isolation from the rest of the system? 

Don't do the following unless you understand it, but this is the procedure for a Lucas dynamo, taken from a BMC manual.  The voltages for yours may be slightly different.  In effect it bypasses the control box and runs the dynamo at full power, so it needs care: 

Disconnect both wires from the dynamo, and secure them safely where they will not make contact with anything.

Connect the two dynamo terminals with a short length of wire.

Connect a voltmeter with a 20 volt range, between either of the two terminals and a good earth on the dynamo casing, such as a mounting point.

Start the engine and increase the speed slowly.  Watch the voltage.  The voltage should rise rapidly and without fluctuation.  Do not let it rise to more than 20 volts and do not let the dynamo run faster than 1000rpm.  Do not race the engine to try and increase the voltage.

If there is no reading, check the brush gear.

If the reading is low , around 1 volt, the field winding may be faulty.

If the reading is around 5 volts the armature winding may be faulty.

 

It is worth checking the brush gear as a first step anyway, as a bad contact here could cause the light to stay on.

HTH.

 

 

Not sure if this will be too much and too complicated. And after talking to dad who owns the tractor we wonder and just leave it as long as the battery is getting charged. Since I have already spent over 40 hours on the tractor now. But maybe I'll look at it more later. Thank you for taking the time to help I appreciate it.

[Dyslexic Viking]

We took today and tested the Zetor tractor on the firewood machine but first I had to empty and clean the sediment bowl/water separator these are very efficient.

 

And the Zetor tractor worked well on the firewood machine. 1100 rpm on the engine with pto on 4 gear is 350 rpm on pto. So it's going to spend a lot of time in the winters on this. I also got the rpm gauge and hour meter to work earlier after the angle drive on the wire was changed.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Audi update. The loud scraping sound on the right brake rear was fixed with new brake drum and wheel bearing. Have tried to bleed the brakes it resulted in a broken air nipple on the left brake calipter had intended to replace this and now it must be done but the brake hose is completely rusted to the brake pipe and is not possible to get loose.

So I took this on an 40 km drive today to test it and the brakes are not good and the brake pedal is still going to the floor, it thanked me for a new brake drum and wheel bearing with that the brake drum is getting too hot so things are not as it should be here. Is also unsure if the engine is running properly but it is drivable and that is the most important thing. And the cooling system seems to work after the overhaul this winter but does not know how hot the engine is. So everything is as usual on this one and that is the reason why I post little about it as most things are just frustrating.

 

[Nibbler]

That Zetor sounds so nice! There was quite a lot of Zetors around in Sweden as well. You can still see them from time to time.  I bought this Zetor a few weeks ago 😀 Nice Audi as well 👍

[Dyslexic Viking]

20 minutes ago, Nibbler said:

That Zetor sounds so nice! There was quite a lot of Zetors around in Sweden as well. You can still see them from time to time.  I bought this Zetor a few weeks ago 😀 Nice Audi as well 👍

 

Thank you. And I agree the Zetor has a great engine sound I like it a lot. I assume that Sweden suffers from the same as Norway that Zetors is bought for export and leaves the country Norway has apparently lost half the population of Zetors in the last 20 years. It's a little sad. And nice Zetor you have got now you only need one in full size haha:).

[Nibbler]

On 13/07/2022 at 22:17, Dyslexic Viking said:

Thank you. And I agree the Zetor has a great engine sound I like it a lot. I assume that Sweden suffers from the same as Norway that Zetors is bought for export and leaves the country Norway has apparently lost half the population of Zetors in the last 20 years. It's a little sad. And nice Zetor you have got now you only need one in full size haha:).

No Idea about the current status of the Swedish Zetor population. But the same thing happened here many years ago with Vaz/Lada.

[Dyslexic Viking]

1 hour ago, Nibbler said:

No Idea about the current status of the Swedish Zetor population. But the same thing happened here many years ago with Vaz/Lada.

Judging by how few Zetors there are for sale on Blocket, many Zetors have probably left Sweden.

[warch]

Decent old tractors command a premium these days. As previously pointed out there was/is a thriving export market for simple tractors especially those from the 60s and 70s, destined for developing countries. Most farmers who have a nice old tractor in good condition are inclined to keep hold of them especially as it is often difficult to justify spending tens of thousands on a newer more complex tractor for none revenue jobs.