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Rover 827 update.... Putting things back together, more faff...


Marina door handles

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back to body work.., Hang hadn't I finished that bit? Well I had a bit of a moment checking over the car I reminded my self how rough the weld on the drivers side sill was and after giving it a good eye balling realised I couldn't really live with it...

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When I finished that side last year I think I figured that I would get back and sort that, well now I am! Firstly clean it back as far as I dare with the grinder and finger sander.

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Then add a long line line of filler and sand it back....

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Not too bad - then primer, paint and clearcoat....

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Yep I can live with that. 

Next up the roof gutter on the drivers side.....

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Eak!

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Not an MOT fail but it will let in water and its not going to fix itself - so out with the welder.......

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Okay not pretty but its rather thin metal wise at that point and best of all its completely hidden behind a rubber strip so I don't care!

 

In my previous post I mentioned the horn issue, well I haven't forgotten. The security bits duly arrived, so I got the pad off the steering wheel, checked for voltage....Nothing hmmm. Had a tiny brain wave and checked the fuses - the fuse was missing! Problem solved? Nope after replacing the fuse I had power to the horn contact but when you made the connection, nothing happened? I tried to check the wiring but its a bit inconclusive.... So I've decided on the lazy parts cannon approach and have ordered a new contact ring, mainly because its cheap and it seams like a likely culprit! 

Other jobs I have started on - ordered up new discs and pads front and rear and one brake hose as I accidentally hung a suspension arm off it! And started re fitting the front bumper but I am considering making at least one replacement bracket as they are a bit knackered.

Anyway that's all for now, thanks for reading. 

 

 

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Slight update on the horn/steering contact ring......  Fucking  Rimmer Bros.... The website says in stock the reality is they seem to have literally nothing for the 800 at all. I wish they would be honest and keep the site updated, so no steering contact ring for me though..... Might have to bodge a horn button in some were on the dash.  Annoying.

I am also having slight issues getting front discs and pads, partly its indecision over a lack of quality branded parts, I guess cheap no name brake parts are better than utterly shagged discs and pads of indeterminate origin......

I just want to throw parts at it and get it finished and I am coming up against annoying hurdles....... First World problems I know......

 

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To be honest I remember getting Ridex/Starkk brake discs for my RAV4 from Autodoc (I had ordered Blue Print but they didn’t have any) and they tried convincing me it was an upgrade.

As brake discs went the car stopped when I wanted it to. Pads are another matter though 

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On 30/04/2024 at 22:15, Marina door handles said:

Slight update on the horn/steering contact ring......  Fucking  Rimmer Bros.... The website says in stock the reality is they seem to have literally nothing for the 800 at all. I wish they would be honest and keep the site updated, so no steering contact ring for me though..... Might have to bodge a horn button in some were on the dash.  Annoying.

I am also having slight issues getting front discs and pads, partly its indecision over a lack of quality branded parts, I guess cheap no name brake parts are better than utterly shagged discs and pads of indeterminate origin......

I just want to throw parts at it and get it finished and I am coming up against annoying hurdles....... First World problems I know......

 

Slight update and feel like I owe Rimmer Bros a slight apology! it was the brake hose not the slip ring they didn't (and that was an out side supplier so the info couldn't be 100% accurate anyway) have. But having now received the slip ring I am not sure if the part is generally wrong or if I ordered the wrong version - need to do some digging! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update time....

Horn issue - resolved turns out the missing fuse was the issue, I was just testing the part dismantled steering wheel wrongly!

Driver's  window apparently jammed or inop.....

As its shut I guess some people could live with it but I am very much a drive with the window open person, plus car parks and toll booths become an issue if you cannot get it open, so I really need to fix this. My initial thought was it's jammed, so I stripped the door card, unbolted the mechanism and uplugged the motor. I then checked the voltage when you operate the switch. It appears to have a permanent 12v feed, when you flick the button to go up one of the contacts shows a whopping 2 volts and a beep, when you switch down nothing. 

I plugged the window regulator into the rear window electrical socket and check the action, goes up and down, so its not the regulator...

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I did a bit of googling, it appears this is pretty common, the causes can be either the fuse box under the dash or the window "brain" under the passenger seat. I thought I would try the basics, un plug and re plug the under seat ecu. No improvement. Realised that the sunroof is also controlled by the ecu, realise its switch is not plugged in, spent a good hour finding the switch pack! Re connect and recheck, the window still doesn't work but at least I have ruled out that connection.

I think the next step is to put my brave trousers on and try and re solder the fuse box connections (as heavily recommended in old forum posts).

Rear Anti roll bar....

I decided that as I now plan to drive the car I need this fixed, so I have gone aftermarket adjustable drop links to replace the unobtainable originals...

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They look a bit out of place attached to the super cruddy anti roll bar but should do the job...

Thanks for reading!

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  • Marina door handles changed the title to Rover 827 update.... Putting things back together, more faff...

Windows 94 update.....

I like really simple electronics, sadly that isn't what the big Rover has... Anyway, were had I got to? Well I was lining up to re solder the fuse box. 

Before I got to the soldering I faffed some more checking and whilst re checking things noticed that it had developed a new fault. The rear driver's side window would only go down when controlled from the driver's multi switch but not up, how ever when you used the switch on the rear door it would open and close? Which looking back is a massive clue to what was going on!

Problem is I convinced my self the people on the 800 forum from ten years ago new best, so I wrestled the fuse box out and carefully dismantled it.....

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Hang on what's that??? I will come back to this...... And no it has nothing to do with the windows...

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When I got it apart on the bench I didn't really find any obvious cracks in the soldered joints etc. I wasn't sure on the best course of action so I decided to follow the advice on the forums and re made connections on fuses 21 and 22  and then re fitted it to the car...  No  change,  actually I was just relieved I didn't create any new electrical faults, yes I did run a bit of a systems check and not just for the windows!

About that mystery cable, turns out its an extra live feed for something, its end ( a weird little jack plug) was hanging out of the dash) maybe it was for a radar detector or a dictaphone, travel kettle or a phone? No idea! It wasn't even in one part, the first section was scotch locked in to a live feed and ended with a cigar lighter socket, which was then lashed to the second cable. The whole thing was messy and it had to come out!

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Weird!

Anyway back to the job in hand... Now let me recap, the drivers switch pack doesn't work the rear window properly or the driver's and yet the switch for the rear window does work as it should, hmmmmm.  Could it be the obvious, the switch pack maybe???????  So having a slight epiphany I took the switch pack apart...

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I eased the driver's door window switch off, checked the action, blew out any crap, couldn't see anything obvious I was a bit disappointed not to spot anything. In despair I put it back together and re fitted it, tested it just in case and........

It fucking worked! I don't know how I fixed the switch but I now have a working switch pack and window motor, just need to re assemble the regulator. I sort of hate issues like this - fixing something without actually finding a fault probably means the fault will re occur at some inconvenient time. The correct course of action would be to replace the switch pack but I very much doubt you can get a new one for this car and second hand units are just as likely to have issues. Anyhow it works for the moment so that will have to do! 

Thanks for reading this waffle! 

 

 

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With my 825's driver's door switchpack, I've found the issue to be with the connection/plug from the switchpack itself. I need to fix it at some point, but my workaround is to have it only resting in the aperture so I can swiftly lift it out and manipulate the connection when I actually need to use it.
 

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9 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

I think there's a fair bit of crossover between these and the P38, whose window switches are easily gubbed by a bit of dirt/corrosion on the contacts. Could well be by cleaning things out and using them you've fixed the problem.

I hope there isn't too much cross over.... Our first P38 committed  Harakiri by setting itself on fire and the second one lost its marbles during an MOT test and due to the fact that we were trying to move house at the time it ended up going for scrap 😪..... 

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Further update, I have now received a the new 2nd hand switch pack and guess what...........

Its faulty but in a different way to the original, the OG switch pack will only raise the drivers window, this new one will only lower it! Its almost a fix in two not quite functioning parts! At least this means my original diagnosis is correct the switch pack is the issue..... Some comfort I guess?

If any knows any Nineties/Rover electronics experts in the Stoke/Crewe area please let me know!  

 

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26 minutes ago, Marina door handles said:

Further update, I have now received a the new 2nd hand switch pack and guess what...........

Its faulty but in a different way to the original, the OG switch pack will only raise the drivers window, this new one will only lower it! Its almost a fix in two not quite functioning parts! At least this means my original diagnosis is correct the switch pack is the issue..... Some comfort I guess?

If any knows any Nineties/Rover electronics experts in the Stoke/Crewe area please let me know!  

 

Supposing it IS like the P38, are you able to take it apart? Folks seem to try and find new switch packs for them, but they're actually really easy to dismantle and clean.

Having looked at this:

the contacts arrangement is v similar to P38s. You probably just need to clean it, with no soldering needed.

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