project 1968 MG Midget - Bodywork repair and welding

[SiC]

Replaced some of the o-rings on the dash clocks. Also took some time to clean up the chrome work with some autosol.


Lost a bit of paint when removing the rev counter despite me being as careful as I could.


Also the terminal broke off for the heater fan override switch. Annoying as I quite liked the weathered look to this switch. A new one would look a bit wrong. I'll see if I can reaffix it.


Also moved some of the switches over. The little card that came with the car describes them but they're not factory. Actually the driver's manual for 1967 had them in the wrong places too. Thankfully they are documented online exactly where they should go. Essentially the top left at the moment is a panel switch but that needs to go below the oil pressure gauge. The hole there is then filled with washer pump control. This makes sense as the left side switches are for wipers and right are for lights.


Decided to fit a manual washer back in. The pump on mine fell to bits just trying to remove the hoses. Plus I like the quirkiness of the manual washers.


It's not clear which is inlet and which is an outlet. I presumed the J means jets.


Tbh I'm not happy with the look of this modern unit. The locking ring is all wrong and the pump button is way too long with a too obvious plastic moulding line on. I'll probably look out for a good used or NOS pump if I can. My last one went on the blue 1100.


I also removed some of the post factory wiring this has had. The fused link goes to the aftermarket cigarette lighter socket. Personally I hate this in the dash and it looks awful. Problem is, I'm left with a bit hole in where it was. Might fit a map reading light to fill the hole. The other grey wire into the dash was for the fan override. I've reconnected this into the factory loom for the original heater switch.
At least none of this has been chopped into the factory loom and it's easy to remove.


While fiddling around I decided to take off the shifter cover. I removed the gearstick, cleaned up the ball joint and regreased. Hopefully will improve the shift. Also noticed the reverse switch wiring was damaged. I did try removing the switch but I couldn't figure how it came out. Not sure if something else is locking it in. It'll stay in for now as it appears to mostly work.



Finally while refitting the Speedo I noticed that it is a 1376tpm unit. This is very good news as it means I've got the longer 3.9:1 diff in the back. Not correct for my age car as it was changed at the end of the year to that. However it drops the revs a fair bit. Basically makes 60mph under 4k rpm.

[SiC]

The aerial on this was snapped right to the base. Decided I'd probably never refit a radio anyway, so the hole had to go.

Made a small piece to fit in. I had hoped this would fit through the hole perfectly but it didn't. So decided to use this as a backing to fill it up with weld instead.



Grind back


More grinding.


A few pin holes left, so I ran some more welds over.


Then flap disc back some more to get a flat surface.


Underneath you can see the plate that went on. Even though you can only see this by poking your head up, now was a good time to at least smoothen it out. While access is not great, it's much easier with that wing off.



While not perfect, at least you shouldn't cut your hand on it now.


Then paint to protect with my trademark paint dribble. That bit will need repainting anyway as the welds the otherside have penetrated through and burnt the paint.

[SiC]

Just about to flick down the visor.
Fuck doing this for a living. Reminds me why I earn my crust sitting in an air conditioned office with baristas, free drinks, snacks, food and unlimited* holiday.


I'll be thinking and feeling for you guys burning up in work tomorrow striking that arc in this weather, while sipping my orange juice and eating an ice cream during a debate on the pros and cons of splitting a git repository up.

[Matty]

2 hours ago, SiC said:

Just about to flick down the visor.
Fuck doing this for a living. Reminds me why I earn my crust sitting in an air conditioned office with baristas, free drinks, snacks, food and unlimited* holiday.


I'll be thinking and feeling for you guys burning up in work tomorrow striking that arc in this weather, while sipping my orange juice and eating an ice cream during a debate on the pros and cons of splitting a git repository up.

Absolute bastard. I hope your air con breaks 😄

[SiC]

I spent an absolute age yesterday figuring out how this panel should fit. The gap at the front b-pillar is much larger than I'd like. Admittedly the same on the other side, no doubt from this being a Steelcraft repair panel than a whole Heritage rear wing.
After a lot of bending and persuasion I got it to pretty much the same as the other.
Incidentally the back end of these are so light, that even though I'm not particularly strong, I can pretty much dead lift it up on one side. Thankfully I found this out when it wasn't on stands!


Also had to figure how much this bottom bit bends in. On the other side it's straight but that's been worked on before. From the photos on the Spridget club Facebook page it is reckoned that it should bend inwards a fair bit.
As this isn't welded yet, it was a case of pushing it in by hand to make the right fit and angle.


Then tacked in place.


These big clamps are awesome. Wish I got some much sooner.


At this point it was an overlap joint. I don't really want to do that on this piece. Not only is it a potential rust trap, you get a ridge that you need to remove with heaps of filler.

So I ran the grinder down at an angle to chop the remaining piece underneath out. Ever so carefully in the middle to not cut through the inner wheel arch that has not long been welded up.


Then used clamps to level it off all the way along.


Then re-tack into place. I also used a straight edge to make sure the panel was completely flat.


Finally tacked all the way along with long pauses using compressed air to make sure there is no excessive heat put into the panel and warping it. I'd have loved to just run a single bead all along but as this panel is so visible, I couldn't risk buggering this up. Not least it would mean more filler work.

I'm crap with filler, so I try to reduce the need for it as much as possible!


Next will be to weld the arch. Might have to tack it in place and then jack it back up again so I can get access by removing the wheel.

[2flags]

This is looking amazing. It will be so satisfying to drive once it is done and you will know that it has been done properly. It is terrifying to think of how many fiberglass and pudding specials are out there especially as these no longer need an MoT.  

[Back_For_More]

The rear wing lower half is where I went too quickly on my BGT..... 1st timer n all that. Went mental trying go figure out what I'd fucked up before an old guy in the club pointed out my error....... 

Cue tears and grinder action trying to sort it..... 

I'm still too impatient and will probably do it yet again on the next major panel replacement 🙄

Great work. Iirc other side won't be as much hassle? 

[SiC]

10 minutes ago, Back_For_More said:

Iirc other side won't be as much hassle? 

Of course it won't be hassle...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah right, you knows it 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[2flags]

But at least it will be done right! Just think, it could be inner arches and sills made of cornflake packets and P40 with copious covering of underseal with an MoT from 'we pass any car' I even saw a U tube video where the guy 'repaired' accident damage with a floor tile and copious amounts of wob!! He posted this and was proud of it!! 

[SiC]

19 hours ago, Matty said:

Absolute bastard. I hope your air con breaks 😄

Some tough decision were needed to be made today in the office 🤔

 

It was hard but I decided this was the best course of action 🤣

Ot course I had to have that thermometer flexing into view. 🙃

[SiC]

Yesterday I welded up the arch. Welding upside down isn't pleasant at the best of times. I wear a head cover, goggles and visor. Then you get spatter falling onto you, with the head cover preventing that particular smell of burning hair. Then add in 26c heat, it's quite an ordeal.
But needs must.
Also I probably didn't need to run a bead on that edge - just if I see something I can run a welding bead along, I can't help myself 😂


This evening has been a busy one now the weather is a less barmy 23c in the garage.
Ground back the arch.



Then spent absolutely ages grinding back along the main panel. Started with a 40 grit flap disc to get most off and then moved to a 60grit to finish. I'd have preferred an 80grit but I have run out of stock of those. I found a particular technique of going at one angle to grind the bottom edge and then rotating it 120 degrees to grind the top edge.


Still will need some more work as there are a few holes that need filing. I'll turn the welder right down, tack them and then run the grinder back over.
There is also a slight ridge where I welded along. It's tempting to go over the grinder some more but I fear that I'll just end up thinning it too much. What do the bodywork experts reckon on here?
I think a skim of filler should suffice?
Or bash it in gently with a hammer?

Welded up the door area and ground back too. The bottom hole I need to weld a piece in. This I didn't cut out, apart from the repair piece in there but I presume it was done last time to provide access at the bottom. I used it as a place to weld the bottom corner of the wing in to prevent it flexing.


Also welded the rear end. Ran out of noisy time to grind it back.


Next I need to figure out how to sculpt this backend. I've bent it into place and ran a few tacks to get a rough shape.
There is also a bit missing from the rear valance. This was covered by a patch that I ripped off. Crap welds again. Might get some thin metal and smash it into place to shape.



This is how the other side looks. I think it'll be a case of smashing it mostly into shape with a hammer. Welding and grinding to sculpt it. Finally filler to get a smooth finish.


This gas bottle is starting to get low now again. I found I had to turn the gas up when welding upside down. Plus helps extinguish when the underseal catches fire.

[GingerNuttz]

hammer and dolly the ridge then fill. 

If you have any high spots after you rub the filler just knock em in with the hammer and dolly and fill again.

[SiC]

Having a garage clean and tidy up.


I'm really rocking this look though. So much so I've just put the front wing on and headlight.
Okay it needs a windscreen, door and a bit more blue paint.
But I lovingly the bumperless and grilleless look.
Wing mirrors I'm swaying between must come off or maybe just one side.

[GMcD]

I like it...I'm not sure why yet..but I like it! 

[SiC]

Mrs SiC says it looks broken. She's of the mind set that how it was originally is "how it should be". I put the grille roughly on and said it looked better. I kinda like it but not sure.

Frank is coming to inspect and give his opinion too.


He didn't piss up the side of it, so I presume that means he didn't mind it.


Stupid thing about going bumperless, is that I bought this year car because it had the big bumpers. I could have got a later one with the narrow bumpers for the same money but that would have not needed all this work! At least it has the extra chrome on the side. Yes that could have easily been retrofitted too. It also needs reattaching on the passenger side too.

Here is a reminder of how it "should" look.

[High Jetter]

One featured in a book in my childhood. Red one. Will try to find it.

[SiC]

Mission creep but I'm pondering about welding up those reversing lights. Less of a carbuncle than the MGB but still looks a lot cleaner without. They were added in early 1967.

I think it looks much better? Mine are a bit sad looking anyway.


1966 in the same/similar colour for comparison.

[barrett]

58 minutes ago, SiC said:

Mission creep but I'm pondering about welding up those reversing lights. Less of a carbuncle than the MGB but still looks a lot cleaner without. They were added in early 1967.

I think it looks much better? Mine are a bit sad looking anyway.


1966 in the same/similar colour for comparison.

Yeah they look miles better without, I would lose 'em whilst you're in welding mode. I'd also lose the wing mirrors entirely, they look wank so far forward. If you're not comfortable having no mirrors then just an offside one, mounted on the door (or at least very close to the screen pillar) will be better. I don't really see the point of external mirrors on cars of this age though, they're pretty useless if you can turn your head. I did once buy a Triumph Herald almost entirely because it had no external mirrors and looked so good for it.

Also, note how much nicer the big sprung wheel looks in DCN there. That would be pretty high on my list of changes too. Oh, and painting those wheels non-body colour!!

Bumpers off look good, but grille needs to stay on. As you say, though, the big bumpers are a big part of the appeal so should probably stay.

 

[Fabergé Greggs]

As above, ditch those reversing lights & mirrors! I dig the bumperless/ no hubcap look but would be curious to see it with a slightly less chrome grill, maybe like so: 

Might be too much of a mish mash of eras for you though. 

[SiC]

On 7/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, barrett said:

Yeah they look miles better without, I would lose 'em whilst you're in welding mode.

Someone did a Photoshop without them. It kinda works well.

Vs

On 7/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, barrett said:

I'd also lose the wing mirrors entirely, they look wank so far forward. If you're not comfortable having no mirrors then just an offside one, mounted on the door (or at least very close to the screen pillar) will be better. I don't really see the point of external mirrors on cars of this age though, they're pretty useless if you can turn your head. I did once buy a Triumph Herald almost entirely because it had no external mirrors and looked so good for it.

I'm leaning more towards ditching them now. That Frogeye Sprite I had as a rental in the week didn't have them. Bit weird at first but I quickly got used to not having them. Like the Frogeye I had, I'm going full length tonneau and no roof. Looks better that way imo and also means no need for mirrors. 

On 7/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, barrett said:

Also, note how much nicer the big sprung wheel looks in DCN there. That would be pretty high on my list of changes too. Oh, and painting those wheels non-body colour!!

Those Banjo wheels are quite a lot of money to replace. Like £150+ for a semi decent one. 

While they look great, I'm not a massive fan of thin rimmed steering wheels. I like to chuck my cars around a bit and I prefer the grip of a chunkier wheel. 

If you look at the wheels, you can see where they've only painted the outside and not the centre. Not sure why they did that. Trouble is, I don't know how I'm going to bring it back to stock. Perhaps chuck some paint remover on it and see if it'll come off that way.

On 7/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, barrett said:

Bumpers off look good, but grille needs to stay on. As you say, though, the big bumpers are a big part of the appeal so should probably stay.

I'm thinking maybe back to bumpers on, especially as I bought it for the big bumpers. 

I've enjoyed working on this so much, that I'm currently thinking about maybe keeping this reasonably stock and then getting another. One that is tatty but fixable. That way I can go my own way with it and lightly customise it, without feeling like it needs to be original. There are so many Spridgets about, especially scruffy ones, that I don't feel bad about not keeping it totally original. 

No full retro-ride tosser but stuff like welding up rear lights, no bumpers, no screens and maybe muck around with the suspension like gas shocks, panhard rods and stuff. 

These Midget Mk3 and Sprite MK2 with quarter light windows won't work as well without a screen. Mostly as this corner would look all wrong.

[SiC]

36 minutes ago, SiC said:

I've enjoyed working on this

About that, as I open up the garage door this evening 😒

 

[GMcD]

It's widdled, it's just happy to see you! 

[SiC]

43 minutes ago, Gerrymcd said:

It's widdled, it's just happy to see you! 

I think more scared on what I'm about to do to its backend

 

[SiC]

No wonder my car was leaking oil on me when I got into the garage!
From utter fear as I started poking its backend and making more holes where there shouldn't be holes.

Looks like it's double skinned on the back. I don't think it'll be pretty once I get the wire wheel out. Likewise this offside panel I think is braised and bad welds with no penetration. Was hoping that I could reuse this panel but it might end up being quicker.
I think another panel order is inbound. Only just cleared my credit card off from last month's orders! 🫣


Looking at rear panel options, it looks like my decision of no reversing lights might be made for me! Heritage either make the early panel with no holes or a much later panel with far too many holes, but none for mine without the split bumpers.

[barrett]

15 hours ago, SiC said:

If you look at the wheels, you can see where they've only painted the outside and not the centre. Not sure why they did that. Trouble is, I don't know how I'm going to bring it back to stock. Perhaps chuck some paint remover on it and see if it'll come off that way.

I'm thinking maybe back to bumpers on, especially as I bought it for the big bumpers.

Are you planning on putting new tyres on it at some point? If so, I'd buy another set of wheels (like these ones - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194877741859) and then when the time comes, I think it's safe to assume you can sell your original set for whatever you paid...

[SiC]

22 minutes ago, barrett said:

Are you planning on putting new tyres on it at some point? If so, I'd buy another set of wheels (like these ones - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194877741859) and then when the time comes, I think it's safe to assume you can sell your original set for whatever you paid...

Yeah it's going to need them once it's ready to go on the road. Existing ones are 18+ years old and cracked. 

Did see them and consider those but it'll cost like £50 in petrol to get them. Once that's added into the price, I could get mine professionally refurbished locally for similar. 

[SiC]

It really doesn't like its arse end in the air. This is just from one days worth of leakage. I know they will leak but not usually anywhere near this bad. Going to have to get another grow bag tray and put it under here.


Trying to figure out where it's coming from. I expected it out the front, not the rear. Possibly out of a seal in the gearbox? Then mixing with dirty engine oil from elsewhere.


If I have to rip the engine and transmission out, it'll mean it turns into an even bigger project. Seriously now contemplating stripping everything off, having the shell media blasted and going for a full restoration from there.

At least it doesn't do it when it's sat level though.

[barrett]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

At least it doesn't do it when it's sat level though.

Sounds like you've fixed it already then. Get the thing solid and running and drive round in it for a bit, and THEN work out if you think it's worth the expense of a proper strip-down and rebuild. Old cars drop oil, nothing to be concerned about.

[SiC]

1 hour ago, barrett said:

drive round in it

I won't be if this is contaminating my clutch. Then engine + gearbox out job. 

1 hour ago, barrett said:

worth the expense of a proper strip-down and rebuild

As it's all me doing this, there isn't extra expense for a full strip-down. Apart from media blasting costs. The tail panel and offside wheel arch & panel is going to need action with the wire wheel. That'll be the majority of the paint removed! 

It really should be properly resprayed with the amount of paint removed. Budget dictates that will likely be a home brew effort. 

1 hour ago, barrett said:

Old cars drop oil, nothing to be concerned about.

Yeah my driveway is testament to that! This is more than a drop of oil though, more Exon Valdez even for an old British car. The rate it's going at, whatever is leaking will be out of oil in 2 weeks. It needs to be up in the air for at least that. 

[Matty]

You know what your problem is Si? You're a perfectionist 😄