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OLLI-Tart D1 300tdi acquired.


Dan the van
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Aware that D1 prices are rising rapidly I've been on the lookout for a cheap one for a while.Spotted this on the'Bay,committed the cardinal sin of purchasing unseen(@£900 it was worth a gamble).Cheap because it only had 1st/3rd/5th but i pre booked an MOT,got insurance and i intended to drive it back.WCPGW?.So come yesterday we loaded my oppo's D1 with everything I could think we would need and set sail for N Cornwall.Found the place easy enough,car looked ok,chucked in the new battery I'd bought(it had been laid up for 2yrs) and turned the key.Nothing.Immobiliser stuck on,tried a new battery in the key fob but it was dead.Ok so far so good*.Decided to tow it the 30 odd miles home which we duly did.No pics of the journey back due to a strap a little* shorter than I would have liked and not much brakes hence left hand was permanently  holding the transmission brake.🤣.Anyway,Jim knows what's what and the miles steadily clicked off until we arrived back at the DTV Ranch.Further update dreckly.🙂.

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So,sit rep:Approved factory immobilizer bypass fail due to probable drivers door lock problem.It works but not doing what it should.Have ordered an immobiliser bypass loom for £20 which should get me up and running.In other news I got the pressure washer out and gave it a good clean above and below.Body is real straight.Paint is v shiny,even the roof.Isolated lacquer peel on top of drivers wing and door.Already found two small holes in the n/s inner wing last night along with a bit inside the o/s/r inner arch.tadts.N/s is fine.Had a good poke underneath and it's proper solid in all the usual places.Nothing to do really,bit of surface rust to chase back and paint but the proper job can wait 'till the spring no prob.Looks like I accidentally  bought a decent one.😁.Engine still unknown but it's got oil and water in the right places and I've turned it over.134000 is nowt for one of these so should be reet.🙂.

 

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I'd quite like a D1 without any ollifications tm but I suspect they fall into classic car territory and are priced accordingly. 

That said, if you do like off roading it makes more sense to buy a cheapo Disco and use that than a Defender, seeing as they're essentially the same give or take six or eight inches but a fraction of the price. 

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18 minutes ago, warch said:

That said, if you do like off roading it makes more sense to buy a cheapo Disco and use that than a Defender, seeing as they're essentially the same give or take six or eight inches but a fraction of the price. 

I did exactly that with a RRC, as I figured I could do more than its value in damage to my 110 in one afternoon just by resting the sides of it against trees, as tends to happen in slippery clayey woods.

As it turned out that was a good decision because by the time I scrapped it the body was absolutely fucked and had adopted a broken backed appearance due to the knackered body mounts getting squashed.  It still had the quietest V8 I've ever heard, with not a hint of timing chain or lifter noise. Pity I didn't have time to take the engine out before it went, but circumstances prevented that.

I'd take that bull bar off fairly early in proceedings, btw. They weigh a ton, get in the way if maintenance and don't do a lot to save panel damage because they get pushed into the wings much too easily.

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40 minutes ago, warch said:

I'd quite like a D1 without any ollifications tm but I suspect they fall into classic car territory and are priced accordingly. 

That said, if you do like off roading it makes more sense to buy a cheapo Disco and use that than a Defender, seeing as they're essentially the same give or take six or eight inches but a fraction of the price. 

10 inches to be exact. The D1 has a very desirable 100inch wheelbase over the 90, the 110 being long enough to get beached easily. I want to cut the body off mine and put a 90 rear tub on it, make it a discfender but that’s a lot of work and effort that I don’t have 😂

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43 minutes ago, sutty2006 said:

10 inches to be exact. The D1 has a very desirable 100inch wheelbase over the 90, the 110 being long enough to get beached easily. I want to cut the body off mine and put a 90 rear tub on it, make it a discfender but that’s a lot of work and effort that I don’t have 😂

Fun fact, the old 90 didn't really have a 90 inch wheelbase, it was actually just under 93inches. Presumably calling it the Land Rover 92.9 wouldn't fly with the marketing people though. Weirdly the 130 extra long wheelbase model was originally sold as the 127. 

The current Defender 90 has a 102 inch wheelbase. 

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1 hour ago, Dead_E23 said:

I did exactly that with a RRC, as I figured I could do more than its value in damage to my 110 in one afternoon just by resting the sides of it against trees, as tends to happen in slippery clayey woods.

As it turned out that was a good decision because by the time I scrapped it the body was absolutely fucked and had adopted a broken backed appearance due to the knackered body mounts getting squashed.  It still had the quietest V8 I've ever heard, with not a hint of timing chain or lifter noise. Pity I didn't have time to take the engine out before it went, but circumstances prevented that.

I'd take that bull bar off fairly early in proceedings, btw. They weigh a ton, get in the way if maintenance and don't do a lot to save panel damage because they get pushed into the wings much too easily.

I hear you about the bull bar.I don't like em for the reasons stated.I ll replace it with an A bar probs to hang the spots on.

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I'd be more tempted to fit a low profile LED roof bar than anything on the front, although those can have the disadvantage of illuminating the bonnet so it might need a 'lip' underneath it to stop that.   I'd definitely want rear, and probably side illumination if I was doing that kind of thing now.  LED has to be the way forward for power consumption and robustness.

Recently I've noticed that rock crawling enthusiasts fit lights inside their wheel arches so they can see what their wheels are sitting on. I thought that was an intriguing idea, although I doubt they'd work too well when the wheel arch is rammed full of clay.

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I'm intending to re jig the roof light set up(which mysteriously stopped working today.🤣). Keeping the light bar,1 round to go on the back for reversing other don't know but will come in handy.Already got the side spots fitted.Has marker lights on the sills as well but don't work atm.Someone spent a lot of £££ 's on this back along.It's got half the Maplins catalogue inside.3 x DVD players,had cb radio,3 extra gauges in a pod etc etc.Some of it will stay but there's miles of fucking wiring and as I didn't fit any of it I'm having fun* tracing it all.There's almost what I paid in added electronic tat!!!.

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10 hours ago, warch said:

Fun fact, the old 90 didn't really have a 90 inch wheelbase, it was actually just under 93inches. Presumably calling it the Land Rover 92.9 wouldn't fly with the marketing people though. Weirdly the 130 extra long wheelbase model was originally sold as the 127. 

The current Defender 90 has a 102 inch wheelbase. 

So the (old) 90 actually had 4.9in more wheelbase than its Series III predecessor, or was that only nominally 88 too?

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2 hours ago, Dan the van said:

I'd wait,give it a couple of years and that'll be worth 5k.Chancers already asking(but prob not getting) that or more for nice ones.Liking that subtle winch set up,not seen that before.

I'd be inclined to agree, I've seen quite a few really quite shonky looking Disco easy* restoration projects knocking about for silly money.

I remember seeing Mk1/facelift Discoveries in use as rally cars too. As a big fan of unlikely rally cars this was always something I looked forward to.

 23614d1501375585-hello-dsc_7131.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Dan the van said:

My local 4x4 indie(Tamar 4x4) does a supply+fit new galv chassis for about £3.5k.It's getting to the point where that is money well spent.Assuming you have it of course.😁.

All good and well if the body is worth keeping too. 
 

ive found a mint powder coated chassis for 500 quid but my brother says it pointless if we aren’t swapping the body, which is pointless if we aren’t swapping the engine and axles too….. so I gave up.

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Update.It runs!.Had a moment to look at the key fob lunch time.Opened it right up and a widget bit fell out.Close inspection with a glass assertained where it should be,tiny dab of super glue to hold it on the contacts and,bugger me, it worked.🙂.Took a fair bit of cranking(fuel related) but sounds ok.Oil +charge light not going out tho',will look into that later.I shut it off and walked away congratulating myself,looked back,and saw the huge puddle of oil underneath.🤣🤣.Not terminal tho',the big oil feed to the turbo has a huge split in it.🤬.Was gonna change the oil anyway.🙄.Will order a new fob tomorrow.Progress!.

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12 minutes ago, Dan the van said:

Oh and the gear shift.Got drive in 1/2/5+reverse,hard to find 3rd,4th ok but no drive in either.Still a linkage problem I think??.Input welcome.🙂

All my gearbox knowledge is based on earlier vehicles, but I'd check the bias plate or whatever they call it hasn't come loose and is impeding the gearchange. If this is ok and the bush for the gearstick isn't buggered have a look at the linkage on top of the box and make sure it operates smoothly*. IIRC 3rd and 4th are on the same shaft so the issue could be fairly major or something piddly like a sticky mechanism. 

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