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Peugeot 309 rescue thread.


DoctorRetro

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Earlier I tried again to get it running and have figured that the fuel isn't getting through. Finding the pump was interesting, because earlier g1a engines had a mechanical fuel pump. However, it looks like the later ones use an in tank pump. Which I found but there's no sound coming from when ignition is on. 🤔

Here's where the mech fuel pump would be. 

IMG20211008160256.thumb.jpg.f3395d9aed02fef841d1f9820879f125.jpg

 

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9 hours ago, Stanky said:

Put some WD40 or something on it, ideally plusgas or penetrating oil, but it'll wash out anyway.

Always been told to rub a candle on it..

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4 minutes ago, SiC said:

Looks readily repairable. Chop the rot, use flat sheet steel for the inner membrane and bend a bit of sheet steel for the sill.

How would you approach the jacking point? It's kind of only held on by a small piece. Cut it off and reweld it in? Remove it completely?

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Yes... electric pump in the tank.  It's easily accesible when you remove the round plastic covers under the rear seat.  One is for the sender, the other is the pump.

Mine was seized solid with fuel that had turned to brown varnish (it's been sitting in a garage for twenty years).  I managed to salvage mine and get it moving ok; the pump is very simple and easy to dismantle.

Good luck!  I'm no body man but I'd say that rot is only what I expected it to be, and repairable without too much agg.

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1 hour ago, DoctorRetro said:

How would you approach the jacking point? It's kind of only held on by a small piece. Cut it off and reweld it in? Remove it completely?

Is it actually a jacking point or a mount used for production?

Tbh on this car I don't think I'd bother remaking the jacking point on this car. If I was, I'd make a square section going up the inner membrane to provide something substantial. But there are likely plenty other places to jack the car anyway and would be a lot quicker not remaking it. 

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1 hour ago, DoctorRetro said:

How would you approach the jacking point? It's kind of only held on by a small piece. Cut it off and reweld it in? Remove it completely?

I'd cut the outer sill off, about 12mm initially below the joint lin to hopefully leave something to weld to. Then cut the membrane back now there's access. Then the inner sill, now it's get atable. If the jacking point is only held on by a little bit, it's no good as a jacking point.I'd remove it, clean it up, they're usually made of thick metal,andmake sure there's something sound to fix it to. Once the bad metal is all cut out, a dangle finder with a thin cutting wheel is best, clean the good metal with a flap wheel. If it'll stand that without turning blue, it's a sign it's thick enough to weld. Start with the inner sill, fix the repair pieces with self tapping screws before welding. The punch part of a joddler makes lovely holes near edges, at least, with no burrs. Looks like the membrane was spot welded to the horizontal bottom of the outer sill. This can be tricky to reproduce. But can be done by  welding the membrane repair  piece(s) in and drilling holes in the outer sill piece where it fits against it and plug welding through. Some might say forget the membrane, nobody will ever see it again. It all depends on what you want to achieve. It's sometimes not that much harder to do a proper job than a short term fix. Good luck with it,it's only metal, what a bore, to parphrase Steve Harley. 

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I don't like when inner membranes aren't repaired. They after all part of what makes up the box section strength of a sill.

Most garages for an MOT would whizz over with the wire wheel and slap a patch on that. Not pretty but simple, quick and gets it through a test. I can't be doing such bodges myself given it only takes an hour or so more to do it properly. 

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On 10/1/2021 at 3:38 PM, tooSavvy said:

I went for a 'sort of test drive/sit in' in a 5 door... Sunroof was sealed with an inflating seal?? Went 'ssszzs' when I yalked the release. Also it was 'exterior fit' = it slid in tracks on the roof..??

Didn't decide to buy.... 🤐

Actually reverse process from memory - seal was deflated with vacuum to allow you to slide it in the tracks - the shhhh you hear when closing the lever was the vacuum being released and allowing the seal to re-inflate 

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On 10/5/2021 at 12:38 PM, SiC said:

Chainsaws are the one tool I refuse to use or own. It's if they snag up and kick that has to be watched out for. If you're not wearing the proper safety trousers, it'll rip through normal leg wear and straight into the leg.

Yes.

20170915_143244.thumb.jpg.992ac4192bf2a23a11ebf13a9ada8c0e.jpg

I'm older and wiser now (and own the proper trousers).

Oddly I've never been much of a 309 fan, preferring the looks of the 205. But reading this thread and the history of the Talbot Arizona almost makes me want one!

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On 10/4/2021 at 9:38 PM, Dobloseven said:

I suppose money spent on tools at least, is rarely wasted. My Mig cost a lot in 1989,more than weeks gross wages. I'm still using it now, must have kept well over a dozen cars on the road with it. To me, the 309 would have to have some sentimental value to make me want to get it back on the road. A red D reg 309 1100 GE was my dads last car. Bought new in 1986 and kept till 2002 when he gave up driving at 83 years old. He gave it to me to do what I wanted with. It was in a bit of a state. Don't think it had ever been washed, mushroom growing on back seat. Loads of little parking dents and scuffs. Rust starting on sills, engine breathing heavily despite, or because of the low mileage. A friends daughter bought it to go back and forth to university before passing it to her brother.Their Dad has a farm nearby and think it might have been eventually parked up and might even still be there (sound familiar?). Hope it works out for the good Doctor one way or another, met him a few weeks ago at the last FoD. 

I bought a cheap "box mover" SIP because I only needed to fix two brackets on my Monza to placate my MOT man (He said if I brought it back again with washer bottle and rad header tank held in place with bungy cords he'd fail it - I saw his point it had been like it for a few years after I converted it to 24V) Anyway - SIP "POS" welder what a fucking nightmare - I got taught to weld at college TIG MIG ARC and Gas but jesus this thing made me think I'd forgotten everything - countless hours spent trying to make it work better (stupidly long thread on the migwelding forum which still gets bumped on a regular basis) in the end I got it working reasonably well but by that point I'd decided I need to buy something that I'd never need to buy again - This is why I have a portamig (inverter welders were just too new to trust) and why in however many years I've had it I've not had to do a thing to it - turn it on guess the settings and then buzz whatever needs gluing up - Downside it's not portable but it is freaking brilliant

Now the Old SIP is sitting at the back of the garage with a unused bottle of CO2 - it welds fine I keep it as a spare that has never been used........

Thinking could loan it out for this project as long as I don't have to babysit your lad for the duration of the loan

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5 minutes ago, Bstardchild said:

 

Thinking could loan it out for this project as long as I don't have to babysit your lad for the duration of the loan

I reckon I need to teach him to be doing this project, I'm aching already from crawling under the bloody thing 😂

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Just now, Bstardchild said:

Put a guard back on it please - no need to run without one

I have to admit I haven't had the guard or handle since about 2010/11. The whole grinder needs replacing really, it's starting to make interesting noises and feel a bit vibratey!  😳

It's done well though for a cheap silverline one.

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On 10/1/2021 at 2:23 PM, Datsuncog said:

 

Great to see swift and decisive action being taken to reel this one in. 

Just re-reading this made me chuckle. Unbeknownst to Autoshite members I was actually offered this car back in July and I've been resisting it since then. Had alloys on it back then too.

Screenshot_2021-10-08-22-59-09-14_6012fa4d4ddec268fc5c7112cbb265e7.thumb.jpg.e204b116a062e9dee1ed723c26b86bac.jpg

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23 minutes ago, DoctorRetro said:

I have to admit I haven't had the guard or handle since about 2010/11. The whole grinder needs replacing really, it's starting to make interesting noises and feel a bit vibratey!  😳

It's done well though for a cheap silverline one.

Aldi have got one for 25 quid this week. Their stuff is usually ok for enthusiastic amateur use. I've currently got a Makita one about 60 from Screwfix, early this year but needed it in a hurry so no chance to shop around. That replaced a Makro one which came "free" with a 9 inch one for about 30 quid and lasted well. 

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1 hour ago, DoctorRetro said:

Just re-reading this made me chuckle. Unbeknownst to Autoshite members I was actually offered this car back in July and I've been resisting it since then. Had alloys on it back then too.

Screenshot_2021-10-08-22-59-09-14_6012fa4d4ddec268fc5c7112cbb265e7.thumb.jpg.e204b116a062e9dee1ed723c26b86bac.jpg

The GTi alloys look good - I'm a bit of a sucker for that style, truth be told - but hey, sometimes it takes time for the planets to align and a car to fit with your circumstances.

Anyone else could have bought it over the past three months, but it fell to you to throw your hat in the ring - so kudos for that.

My two cents: I'd have run away screaming at the sills, but then I'm pretty easily daunted. I can't weld, and I don't think I've broken out the P38 since Wobfest 2002, when I attempted to reconstruct quite a lot of a MK2 Fiesta, with mixed success...

Still, plenty on here seem to think it's still viable enough, so I'll bow to their greater expertise...

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Those sills look way better than expected given how much filler is clearly in the wheel arches.  For that sill repair, I'd be looking for a 309 or similar era Peugeot someone was breaking and seeing if you can get a cut from the sill since the profile should be close enough that you can tweak it out to suit the sill end.  Front wings can sometimes give you the profile you need from the bottom trailing edge for this sort of repair.  All you really need is something close to the right profile to make your life easier on the fabrication.

This blue four door that's being broken might offer some useful bits.  They might not be willing to chop bits of it off for you but it does have both front wings and they might not be megabucks.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154604153199

 

EDIT: I just realised 309 front wings don't wrap over the sill at the bottom like so many other cars of the period.  Might not work that way after all.

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A few more hints. Do the worst side first so you've got more to refer to for dimensions, radii etc. from the "best" side. Don't try to use too thick metal,. 7mm is more than enough. Anything thicker is a bugger to cut and bend. I tend to do my repairs on the front of the house. My workshop is down the garden. I tend to walk miles back and forth. ABlack and Decker Workmate would save a lot of effort. Metal can be bent using a couple of lengths of angle iron. A rounded off cheapo bolster chisel is good for forming creases. Finally, in the Gospel according to St Jude, shit welding is 100%  better than good rust! 

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10 minutes ago, Dobloseven said:

Don't try to use too thick metal,. 7mm is more than enough. Anything thicker is a bugger to cut and bend.

Assuming this is a typo as 7mm steel would be better for building a boat!

 

The rust looks fairly localised, panels are mostly multiple pieces and simple shapes, you could profile a "close enough" sill by hammering a plate over something vaguely sharp like a kerb stone or something.

 

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  • DoctorRetro changed the title to Peugeot 309 rescue thread.

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