Erebus Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Think the centre caps would be like these: DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 6 minutes ago, Erebus said: Think the centre caps would be like these: Ah, I wasn't sure from the pics whether it was all one piece, thanks for that info. Erebus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickvw72 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Cracking work, well done. The wheels bought back memories of a 18 year old me, painting the rims on my 1989 309 Style. It was a great car. 500tops 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erebus Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Excellent work btw. Really enjoyed reading this thread and a shame you've got to move it on DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoss Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 5 hours ago, DoctorRetro said: Yep, definitely on the to-do list. Also, lesson learned. Be careful where you put your hands when pushing a 309... 😳 Oops. And to think they made Škoda jokes at the time! Great work and great colour. I'd love park my Favorit next to this. Very similar colour and big plastic bumpers. No colour coding here. Excellent. LightBulbFun and DoctorRetro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 1 hour ago, DoctorRetro said: Figured out the non starting is due to blocked jets, or at least I think so. Even with gravity pushing fuel, or a temporary in line pump, there's nothing squirting into the carb. When I loosen the centre jet a bit , and pull the throttle, fuel comes out of the base of it. I haven't got the patience to strip and rebuild the carb at the moment, so I'll shelve that for now. Chances are if you take out the jets and emulsion tube, you'll be able to blow carb cleaner through quite a bit of the internal galleries. Pay special attention to where the idle jet connects, as if that's blocked, starting and idling will be incredible hard. LightBulbFun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozeydustman Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 As a bit of a rough & ready solution to unblocking the jets, take them out and soak them in fresh petrol or some acetone (poundland nail polish remover will do). It won’t clean them perfectly but may be enough to remove most of the gunged up petrol. Fine wire to poke out any blockages may be needed. I *think* these are a Solex 34BISA carb Very impressed with the progress on this car! Cap doffed DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 Urgh. Ran out of wire and changed the reel to the new one I had. I now can't seem to get the settings right. Any thoughts? Oh, and I've also ran out of gas 🙄 I guess it could be related, if the gas was running low. Six-cylinder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben_O Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 That black knurled knob on the wire feed is adjustable and if its too tight or too loose, it will drastically affect the wire speed and stability of the feed. If you haven't touched the switches since swapping the reel, then it's likely that. Of course, no gas will cause a very porous weld so that needs sorting too before you get going again. I must say, I'm very impressed with the repair. Cheers Ben Matty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Cleaning the rollers sometimes can help too. Crud builds up and causes them to slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juular Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 2 hours ago, DoctorRetro said: Urgh. Ran out of wire and changed the reel to the new one I had. I now can't seem to get the settings right. Any thoughts? Oh, and I've also ran out of gas 🙄 I guess it could be related, if the gas was running low. First thing to check is the wire is definitely steel, the same diameter as before and that you aren't accidentally using flux cored wire or something. Also make sure the wire is going through the right groove in the roller for its size. Easy enough to check the feed by just pulling the trigger and seeing if it's nice and smooth. If it's slipping you might want to tighten the tension down a bit. A lack of gas is definitely going to result in horrible welds. In fact if you have porous welds from no gas / wind blowing the gas away, it's best to grind them away and lay better ones as they will rust like mad. DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 1 hour ago, juular said: First thing to check is the wire is definitely steel Would the fact it is copper coloured be an indication? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juular Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 22 minutes ago, DoctorRetro said: Would the fact it is copper coloured be an indication? That's normal, it's only coated in copper. DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 If the settings seem to be wrong it's most likely a different wire thickness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 1 hour ago, Dave_Q said: If the settings seem to be wrong it's most likely a different wire thickness. Old one was 0.9mm, this is 0.8mm But I have an awful feeling it's actually flux cored, will check tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerNuttz Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Flux core is usually a grey coloured wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 40 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said: Flux core is usually a grey coloured wire. Its grey inside, well the little ball of goo that keeps clogging up the tip is anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickvw72 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Looks like standard wire, Gasless all been grey coloured when I’ve used it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 What does the label say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought 0.9mm wire was flux cored? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickvw72 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Make sure you have a 0.8mm tip if you’ve gone from 0.9. Ive used loads of 0.8 gasless in the past, never had 0.9. When I bought my three phase murex, I had a go and it welded shite. Then I realised it had a 0.8 tip, and 0.6 wire. It makes a massive difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 1 hour ago, SiC said: What does the label say? I said I'll check tomorrow ffs! 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 Ok, now I'm confused. Here's the original reel that came with the welder. Here's the box off the new reel. Dobloseven 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobloseven Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 I'm confused as well. I've always used .6 wire for thin stuff like car bodies.I've got.8 wire and tips but keep it for thick stuff. If you're putting. 8 wire down a.9 tip, then that's not good. Whatever you were doing before seemed ok though. DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juular Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Seems like you may have been welding using gas on gasless wire. Turned out well in that case. Good job! Get some 0.8mm tips (they're cheap) and reap the benefits of welding with gas, it's way nicer. If you can return that and get 0.6 wire and tips, even better. DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 21 minutes ago, juular said: get 0.6 wire and tips Stupid question, but how does the tip come off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobloseven Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 17 minutes ago, DoctorRetro said: Stupid question, but how does the tip come off? They unscrew. There seem to be at least two types of tip. The smaller "hobby" size and the larger "professional" type. Both seem to be readily available from the likes of Machine Mart etc.Halfords used to sell them as well. Didn't realise. .9 ones were available though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerNuttz Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Using no gas wire and gas is just like running dual shield so it'll be absolutely fine albeit a waste of gas. 0.8 wire is what I use for everything from 0.8mm to 8mm steel and it's been absolutely fine. Angrydicky, DoctorRetro and LightBulbFun 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickvw72 Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 0.6 mm wire requires more current to melt, as it’s less conductive. Smaller MiGs can struggle with it as they can’t provide enough amps. Id go 0.8 on everything. I can use both but I’ve been neater with 0.8. I’ve been welding cars for 24years so and 0.8, with proper gas is the way to go. GingerNuttz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 33 minutes ago, rickvw72 said: 0.6 mm wire requires more current to melt, as it’s less conductive. Smaller MiGs can struggle with it as they can’t provide enough amps. Id go 0.8 on everything. I can use both but I’ve been neater with 0.8. I’ve been welding cars for 24years so and 0.8, with proper gas is the way to go. How does physics work on your planet? It seems to work the opposite way round to the stuff here on earth. wuvvum and twosmoke300 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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