stupidity 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Ok. I'm sorry. I washed it.

[danthecapriman]

Great stuff👍

It’s amazing how a coat of primer makes it all look much more uniform and finished. It’s going to look fantastic with paint!

[Fabergé Greggs]

Incredible! I've loved every bit of seeing this come together. 

Can I buy it yet? 

[jonny69]

This is looking gr9 m7. 

Those pinholed lower panels - I did exactly the same with the rear panel on my Anglia. As long as you seal it well on both sides it works just fine. Painted mine in 2007 and it’s one of the panels which have survived the best!

[juular]

4 minutes ago, jonny69 said:

This is looking gr9 m7. 

Those pinholed lower panels - I did exactly the same with the rear panel on my Anglia. As long as you seal it well on both sides it works just fine. Painted mine in 2007 and it’s one of the panels which have survived the best!

That's good to know! I was thinking I'd be happy if I get another year out of them.

It looks like this isn't the first time they've been recreated with wob, to the extent the metal just seems like a template for filler now.

[DSdriver]

2 minutes ago, juular said:

That's good to know! I was thinking I'd be happy if I get another year out of them.

It looks like this isn't the first time they've been recreated with wob, to the extent the metal just seems like a template for filler now.

Which makes me think why not make a mould off of them and make new ones in fibreglass? 

[juular]

3 minutes ago, DSdriver said:

Which makes me think why not make a mould off of them and make new ones in fibreglass? 

Excellent idea. I've been toying with this over the past few weeks but never really looked into the specifics of it.

[DSdriver]

3 minutes ago, juular said:

Excellent idea. I've been toying with this over the past few weeks but never really looked into the specifics of it.

Once you've got the mould you can start a nice little cottage industry.

[purplebargeken]

I still have a home made but solid as fuck hub puller or something for one of these I think... Loved the look of mine but it had loads of shite stuff done to in in the name of journalism over the years and whilst it drove ok, I couldn't gel with it.

[juular]

Finished undersealing, which will hopefully last at least one Scottish winter. (L.A. Noire doubt gif).

Then on to refitting the rear axle and suspension.  It's nice to get some storage space back as things start to go on the car.

Then the driveshafts and brakes.

The wheel bearings are perfect looking, so I simply cleaned them out and repacked them.

Then followed quite a lot of timewasting and messing around as I couldn't remember how the backplates and seals went together.  The rear axles are shimmed to allow a certain amount of axial play in the driveshafts. Too little or too much can damage the diff.  I forgot to take pictures of how it came apart, so I spent a whole afternoon reading up on it and trying various combinations which didn't feel right.  It doesn't help that the documentation on these is sketchy and seems mostly to apply to the Spicer rear axle, which is different from the ENV one I have.

Eventually I worked out from a tiny note in the HBOL that I can fit all of the shims on the left side of the car and leave the right side unshimmed.  With this set up everything feels just right and there's the tiniest amount of axial movement in both halfshafts.

I did have a moment of WTF when the left side half shaft wouldn't go in properly and then felt properly stiff.  Then I realised the bolt that holds the brake line junction box on to the axle was screwed in too far, catching on the driveshaft. Absolute numpty moment and it took around 6 attempts refitting and swapping the halfshafts over before I decided to shine a light into the axle and see the problem.

Finally, fitting the backplates and brakes.

New fitting kit and brake cylinder, but old shoes as they have plenty of life left in them. Also reused the old handbrake cables as with a bit of oil down them, they worked like new.

Now progress has halted as I've managed to lose one of the four brake shoes. 

[Tepper]

Top work man, I hope you're enjoying seeing it start to come together as much as the rest of us are.

[alcyonecorporation]

This is looking fucking ace. 

[juular]

Couldn't find the missing brake shoe so I had to take apart the spare axle and use the ones from that.

Then I could start running new brake lines, and refit the handbrake mechanism.

Engine bay plumbed in to the master cylinder.

And then the front calipers fitted with new flexis.

 

Then just for the sake of it I put the front wings on.

 

[Ronkey]

I thought I'd have a go too. Easy right?

[juular]

Getting high tech for a moment.

Sounded a bit like an old wives tale but no, it works like magic to remove the spigot bearing.

New one tapped in.

Sad flywheel is sad.

Happy flywheel is happy.

A nice shiny new LUK clutch.

It didn't come with an alignment tool so I made my own from two sockets and duct tape.

Now to get the gearbox ready to go on.

[juular]

11 hours ago, Ronkey said:

I thought I'd have a go too. Easy right?

Looks a very good prospect that one. Mine should have been put out of its misery long ago!

[grogee]

2 hours ago, juular said:

Sounded a bit like an old wives tale but no, it works like magic to remove the spigot bearing

Can you expand on this? I've heard something similar from AVE on YouTube but never seen it done in real life. 

I presume you stuff the bread into the hole and compact it using a suitable bashing rod of the correct diameter, yes? 

[motorpunk]

One of my favourite cars on 'shite.

[juular]

21 minutes ago, grogee said:

Can you expand on this? I've heard something similar from AVE on YouTube but never seen it done in real life. 

I presume you stuff the bread into the hole and compact it using a suitable bashing rod of the correct diameter, yes? 

Exactly this. Bash it in, add some more, bash it in. It will start compacting in behind the bearing and force it out.

[Talbot]

10 minutes ago, juular said:

Bash it in, add some more, bash it in. It will start compacting in behind the bearing and force it out.

I've done the same with grease and (oddly effective) play-doh before now.

This is looking absolutely superb tbh.  The sort of restoration that seems implausable without a workshop.

[motorpunk]

1 minute ago, Talbot said:

The sort of restoration that seems implausable without a workshop.

Great description!

[Westbay]

Just read this from start ! Wow , well done, love these …

[scdan4]

1 hour ago, juular said:

Exactly this. Bash it in, add some more, bash it in. It will start compacting in behind the bearing and force it out.

Huh.

 

 

(Bet the first time I try it the hole will turn out not to be blind after all and I'll just fill the crankcase with hovis.... )

 

[Dyslexic Viking]

Can't believe you're doing this outside. That is impressive. So well done.

[juular]

Gearbox.

A few jobs to do on this before it can go on the car. 

Firstly, testing the overdrive solenoid by giving it power and listening for the clunk. 

That works.

Next, testing the 4th gear inhibitor switch for the overdrive.

That didn't work. Removing the switch and testing it by pressing on it showed the switch was dead.

Also tested the reverse switch. This is the most shonky design I've ever seen and consists entirely of a spring that gets bashed by the reverse gear rail and grounds a wire.

That didn't work either. Taking it apart showed why.

The one on the right is from this gearbox and the one on the left is from the spare M40 box. I just swapped them over.

Still couldn't get the switch to work then eventually realised it's because I can't find reverse.

Even dug out the other box and put a gearstick on it to see if I could find reverse on that but no luck. I think it's just impossible with the box out and wobbling around.

Next job was to change the release bearing. This should be simple, but in the process the release fork fell off. The problem was the bowl shaped washer keeping it connected to the pivot ball had disintegrated.

These bowl washers are of course NLA so I have to make my own.

First step is finding a washer that will fit in the socket.  Eventually got a perfect one.

I then chucked the assembly in the press and used the pivot ball to shape the washer.

That's very close!

That just needed some grinding and trimming and thankfully it all clipped together nicely and should last a while.

Fork reinstalled with new release bearing.

Before fitting I fitted the new 4th gear switch and redid all the wiring to the box as it was quite flaky.

On it goes.

It wasn't too difficult to line up once I realised the engine had to be canted right back for the bell housing to clear the transmission tunnel.

Propshaft on.

We now have a gearstick!

I could then finish this off by chucking the starter motor on.

 

[loserone]

Top work as always 

[GMcD]

58 minutes ago, loserone said:

Top work as always 

Seconded, your work on this is unreal!

[High Jetter]

6 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Can't believe you're doing this outside. That is impressive. So well done.

Why? He's just using his loaf...

[barrett]

Really great stuff. I particularly like that you've saved up a few updates and have published them all in a short period of time, so it looks like you've done a full brake rebuild and fitted a new clutch and the gearbox in the time it took me to send a few emails and eat a pizza (or maybe you have, I wouldn't be surprised). Can't wait to see what's next!

[dozeydustman]

[juular]

Treated the fuel tank with phosphoric acid last year and left it lying around. It hasn't rusted at all. Great stuff.

Quick check of the level sender.

Full.

Empty.

A coat of paint and on it goes.

Finished off filling and sanding the lower panels. Fairly happy with them considering how knackered they are.

Checked the wiper motor. Dead. Onto the bench, I got it to fire up eventually but it wasn't happy.

 

Taking it apart I noticed a broken solder joint and loads of muck.

Cleaned up, soldered and greased.

 

 

Finally in this round of updates, sorting the exhaust. I need to make one good exhaust from two broken ones.

Eventually got to a situation where all I needed was to fill this gap.

Did this by cutting off an angled part from the fucked exhaust and welding it on here.

That's things mostly up to date.. I think!