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1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.


juular

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1 hour ago, juular said:

Then it tried to chuck an air filter off on the motorway.

Better bolts enroute. You'd think for 50 odd quid they'd include fixings..

Go '50s LeMans' = wire the nuts 👍😉

🚙💨

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Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.

Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

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Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.

Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

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Seems to do the job ok.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chrome shite.
22 hours ago, juular said:

Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.

Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

PXL_20240321_180314248.jpg.9ddff152abcda986c63edfefda1aa615.jpg

Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.

Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

PXL_20240321_171944817.jpg.84de792c5893f8ce0b826239880441aa.jpg

Seems to do the job ok.

Needs sound on this thread @juular 😄

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You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.

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The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.

You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

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I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

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The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

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The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.

Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

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The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.

The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.

The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.

I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.
1 hour ago, beko1987 said:

Best way, rip it out and do it all properly! Gonna hide a usb socket or 2 up somewhere? 

Plus once you've done it right you probably halve the wires hiding under there without really trying 

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

PXL_20240310_131928192.jpg

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14 minutes ago, juular said:

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

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Ah yes that does blend in well! I'd argue having a sat nav plus phone charging ability fairly critical even if wanting to go oem only, especially going up and down the road* like you do so often 😂

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6 hours ago, juular said:

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

PXL_20240310_131928192.jpg

I have tried a few options along these lines until I found one which was both discreet and charged at a decent current! Do you know what it will charge at?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 25/03/2024 at 22:03, mat_the_cat said:

I have tried a few options along these lines until I found one which was both discreet and charged at a decent current! Do you know what it will charge at?

This one will do an actual charge rather than a 'charging slowly' which is all most other adapters I've tried recently seem to manage.

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Rewire complete. 

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Have made a few changes. The switched fusebox is fed from a master 100A relay which is triggered from the ignition key. This takes the heavy load off the ignition barrel which could get extremely hot with all of the current for all systems passing through it.

The coil is fed straight off the barrel and is unfused, as it should be, so even if the relay fails the engine won't stop.

Apart from that I made sure all cable ends had good quality spade connectors and heat shrink wrap with adhesive. This way they're pretty tough and reliable and eliminates some of the nasty and corroded original connectors.

The engine bay is much cleaner now without the fusebox, relays, and associated wiring nests.

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Wiring for the reverse lights and overdrive now run inside, and I've packed the gap around the gearstick with insulation to cut down on road noise.

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Important upgrade done to the brake lights. The original brake light switch is a fluid pressure switch which tends to only activate when you're standing on the pedal. 

I've changed it for an electrical pedal switch, which needed a bracket made up.

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A real pain to drill the bolt holes for this in the pedal box so the top hole is in at an awkward angle.

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Still it does the trick and is a massive upgrade. The lights now come on as soon as you touch the pedal.

While the steering wheel was off I swapped the steering column coupling bush as it was really sloppy.

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The steering column shroud also got a coat of paint after I did some repairs to the cracking brittle plastic with some epoxy.

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Last few bits done inside. A new hazard switch.

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I then remembered I bought a set of instrument panel stickers off Demon Tweeks.

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So I then did what I originally meant to and sorted the dash light graphics.

Before.

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After.

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