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Disco chassis fettle + new not clever body!


jakebullet
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I've been under the disco armed with my trusty air needle gun. Found a few holes :(

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This is what's annoying about getting garages to do welding, they use the minimum amount of plate, and surprise! you've got a hole next to where they've plated.

Then there's the weird "scabs", where the surface of the plate has gone but solid underneath.

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Except scab on the side next to the fuel tank also has a crack in it.

N another crater on the offside. It's like there's chunks of "not steel" in the steel.

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Fortunately apart from the gaping holes it's solid, as my 30 year old migmate only works on the top power setting.

I can do pigeon shite:

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The one at the side of the tank was more of a bastard as I don't want to take the tank out, but also don't want to melt it. So I welded a bit, cooled it down with wet towel, repeat. Except when I came to do the top edge I can't get the torch in. Had to get the sealant gun out stick welder, and bend an electrode. Obvs I left the slag on to make it look more pretty and will have to be liberal with the underseal.

Mega pigeon / MOT standard:

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Not sure what to do with the crater on the right of the pic above? It withstands 90 psi needle gunning.

Also not sure about wheel arches. There's this spot where the underseal has failed:

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I'll grit blast the rust spot and treat, but should I remove all the underseal for if there's more nasties hiding? Or a new coat over the top of all sound* underseal?

Ultimate plan is to fit a new rear chassis, but just haven't got time or facilities. So shonky 3mm plate to hold it together for another year.

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I'm thinking there's plenty of weld stuck on it, so an angle grinder flap disk session will make it look more weld like. I'd have had a go today but it started raining and Simon Mayo came on the radio so I had to stop.

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10 hours ago, Minimad5 said:

Get some R.E from buzzweld and cover the lot with a nice coating. Then when that goes off bang some C.I.O (or similar) over the lot.

1+ for Buzzweld.

I like the R.E and the WAR undersealer too.

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1 hour ago, jakebullet said:

Just been to A&E for a grinding spark removing from my eye. Ungrateful bastard thing!

Top tip: avoid wilko goggles.

I swear by the following:

Bolle Tracker II Safety Glasses

Get them from Amazon for about £8 or £9, yes that is expensive for one pair, but good luck buying a new set of eyes.

Ooh and they come with string too, so they don't fall off (Get a clear set and an orange set, as I find the orange ones are brilliant in bright sun)

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I’ve had to weld my D1s chassis in the same place. 2mm thick steel and a high powered welder. Your inner arches look mint in comparison to mine, mine fell out last year between MOTs. Dry stored in my unit too! 

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Does this look more acceptable? Flap disk'd it, but then out of gas so had to try and improve with stick welder. It's strong enough, so underseal?

IMG_20210915_150200.thumb.jpg.329c6e832f0b473587e3b0e07c26676e.jpg

 

Wheel arch is only localised, so going to fix smoll hole, and monitor rest of arch.

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@Minimad5 how clean do I have to get things for buzzweld primer to work? Been at it with the grinder flap disk and power file. Is this good enough? Mostly clean with odd bit of brown

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27 minutes ago, jakebullet said:

Does this look more acceptable? Flap disk'd it, but then out of gas so had to try and improve with stick welder. It's strong enough, so underseal?

IMG_20210915_150200.thumb.jpg.329c6e832f0b473587e3b0e07c26676e.jpg

 

Wheel arch is only localised, so going to fix smoll hole, and monitor rest of arch.

IMG_20210915_180756.thumb.jpg.cbc20a777fe5006fa04cebdbe9a84d8b.jpg

 

@Minimad5 how clean do I have to get things for buzzweld primer to work? Been at it with the grinder flap disk and power file. Is this good enough? Mostly clean with odd bit of brown

IMG_20210915_180741.thumb.jpg.ac460b7cac8edda3e97522e20fb5dfb0.jpg

 

 

Don't use primer Mucka' use some Rust Encapsulator (R.E) which is like red oxide. Then when this goes off you've got a choice of other products to put over the top of this, I like C.I.O (chassis in one) but isn't that hard if you're going to be going off-roading,  so something like WAR or the 2k Armour.

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4 minutes ago, Minimad5 said:

Don't use primer Mucka' use some Rust Encapsulator (R.E) which is like red oxide. Then when this goes off you've got a choice of other products to put over the top of this, I like C.I.O (chassis in one) but isn't that hard if you're going to be going off-roading,  so something like WAR or the 2k Armour.

I was meaning rust encapsulator when I said primer. Been a long vibratory day. Was thinking 2 coats of that, 2 coats of CIO, then a splash of war. Don't want to be doing this again.

CAN RE handle a bit of brown?

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If you've got a flap disc just give a quick buzz over, I think* aslong as the surface is keyed, not greasy / oily then it should be alright mate.

I normally flap disc or use them funny looking ones (I'll add a picture when I find it) .... don't be tempted to use any cleaning sprays such as Brake & Clutch cleaner, as they all leave behind a residue and make it go to pot.

These are the discs I mean ...

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Don't have a pressure washer :(

I've been needle gunning to knock off the old paint / thick rust then angry grinder.

I've got one of those strip & clean disks but can't use it, bloody thing is too thick and the pins of the grinder spanner can't reach the nut !

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30 minutes ago, jakebullet said:

Don't have a pressure washer :(

I've been needle gunning to knock off the old paint / thick rust then angry grinder.

I've got one of those strip & clean disks but can't use it, bloody thing is too thick and the pins of the grinder spanner can't reach the nut !

Don't use the spanner then, just snug it up by hand. The only time I ever use the spanner on a grinder is if it's snagged on something and done itself up tight and I can't undo it by hand. I never, ever tighten up a new disk with one and at times I use grinders an awful lot.

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  • jakebullet changed the title to Disco chassis fettle + new not clever body!

Disco is a real land rover now! All real ones need the footwells welding up.

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Took the wing off for better access. Fucksocks.

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Entertaining welding thinner stuff when my mig only works on top power (130 amp).

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Bit at top was done by MOT station 2 years ago. Mine doesn't look much worse, and a good wob up will improve it no end. Still got to fix the huge hole. Spent yonks cleaning to avoid fire, there's thick tar on inside, and  seam sealer +underseal on the outside. Apart from where the hole is the steel is in good condition.

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