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66 Mustang coupe


Low Horatio gearbox

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Thanks for doing the honours @Low Horatio gearbox.  As hoped, that's bloody gorgeous. The saloons still seem reasonable VFM compared to their fastback counterparts. I prefer them too, although always have favoured the underdog in everything automotive. I had these in my ebay watch list around 18 months ago - values seem to have crept up since. My love of 60s Americana has since been boosted further by Mr Bieri's escapades online.

As I mentioned on the other thread, your Mustang is the perfect starting point- genuine, solid car with paper trail attached. Paintwork is a minor detail 😉.

You've just turned the jealousy-ometer up to 11. 

Following! 

 

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51 minutes ago, HMC said:

Fantastic. I love the colour. OBV sort the welding etc but I’d run that cosmetically as is/ rustproof to the max but enjoy smoking about in something that you don’t need to be too precious about eg nipping off to Tesco in.

That is indeed the plan.

 

The colour is Ambergold with  and Ambergold/parchment pony interior.

Most of the bodywork is straight, a small amount of filler in the rear arches at the back but I intend to leave it as is. The welding is a bit of a faff but I've one panel and ther other is not  complicated a shape and its something to do while the DVLA do their thing.

 

Indeed its a 289 2 barrel. Power steering but no power brakes (will wait till I drive it to commuting to a servo master cylinder or not)

 

Bumpf

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Earliest history I can find.

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Not sure if this was for insurance purposes or to sell.. my my those  90s prices...

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More of the same.. a Datsun 260Z for a thousand dollars.. yes...please!

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19 minutes ago, HMC said:

enjoy smoking about in something that you don’t need to be too precious about eg nipping off to Tesco in.

Exactly. Can you imagine the clench level leaving a pristine one anywhere near the mouth breathers that park in Tesco? At least with this you can just enjoy it fully and sleep at night.

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That's great!

Just go through the jobs that'll make it a reliable, useful and moderately safe* means of transport, and have fun taking it to events and using it whenever you can without getting too hung up on the cosmetics. That should make it a very saleable proposition when you do decide to move it on. Parts availability is pretty good I'd imagine.

 

*Obviously it'll never be great on the NCAP rating.

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Cheers guys.

You have all nailed it. Make it usable and safe and just drive it, without having to worry about car parks or actually using it. As soon as its welded and registered I'll be getting some new rubber on it as it's current ones are pretty easy it.  The patina is lovely and there are so many modded and overly restored ones  that original...ish ones like this are a bit of a rarity.  Franky as much as the fastback is the cool one you cant actually get humans above 5'4"comfortably in the back and I prefer the looks of the coupe even without the fastback 100% cool factor price premium!

Tis definitly a bucket list car and I wish I could keep it forever..maybe. But I want to try too many other cars... play that nano violin.  :D

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2 hours ago, Bren said:

What does it go like with the 289 and two barrel carb?

In limited testing up the ish  200 yard sloping access road to my garage... ok-soso.

More on that when it's less rusty and road legal, I imagine it will sound and look faster than it really is, which is fine as I want a cruiser.

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1 hour ago, Low Horatio gearbox said:

In limited testing up the ish  200 yard sloping access road to my garage... ok-soso.

More on that when it's less rusty and road legal, I imagine it will sound and look faster than it really is, which is fine as I want a cruiser.

I think it would respond well to a four barrel and some tubular fanny moulds - you could get hi po versions of the 289.

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While I (we) wait for the welding to happen (very soon  the girlfriends dad is keen  he has even turned up to look at it when I'm not here!) I've been busying myself with some more motivation and cleaining. Like always I forgot to take a proper before picture, because well excitement! But the comparison hubcap is nowhere near as bad as the nkw leaned worse one.  The tar came off pretty well and it shined up well so  just a through cleaning will do nicely over repainting them, though I may spring for a few new centre caps.

 

Side by side.

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Semi before.

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And the worst one after.

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20 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

Phhhwwooarrrr.

 

*rubs thighs vigorously”

 

 

 

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On 9/2/2021 at 3:50 PM, Bren said:

I think it would respond well to a four barrel and some tubular fanny moulds - you could get hi po versions of the 289.

The temptation for a four barrel is strong, not sure on the ma folds as its cherrybombed and stright pipped pretty much.

Actual driving it on the road will tell if I'm happy  with stock horespower (less 55 years age. Mind its allegedly only done 55k). Given you can get  nearly a quater lock of play on the steering wheel before the front wheels respond (TADS) I'll be looking to get it to steer and stop before I go chasing down more power.

Anyway I took some brave pills.. or stupid pills depending on your POV😂🤣

 

I pulled the rear seat back out and prodded underneath as well. The rear floorpan looks worse than it is, I'll need about 8-10" of the back of the floorpan I was given. The metalwork where the floorpan meets the seat is quite solid.  That leaves me about 20-25 inches to use to repair the rear seat pan. I say "me"  I'll be helping and learning  as the GFs dad will be providing  90%  of the skill and work.

Rear offside floorpan looking back

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Rear offside floopan looking forward. The rusty stuff is the floopan, the black/grey panel is the rear seat crossbrace and is thankfully nice and solid.

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The seatpan hole is a fair bit larger than I first thought,  but it's mostly the flat floor and the rear wall at a 75 degree angle. There is enough good metal at the transmission tunnel side so joining it there is ok. The wheelarchside has a few more angles  so will be a little trickier but I'm looking for solid and safe repairs not concours perfect. 

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Rear seatpan from the outside. The cable  is the handbrake line. The damage is worse on the inside  so I'm still going with spilled liquid on the seat held ther by the bituminous pad. (Eyyy look at my straightpipes and cherrybombs!) 

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There is also a perforation around the outer lap belt anchor point which will need addressing though its tight access from both  inand outside and a clean up and letting in a  flat patch wont be too difficult.

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I also had a go at improving the bonnet and NS front wing alignment, its definitely  better. The rear of the bonnet is still about a quater inch proud across but far less noticeable than the 3/4 inch high on the near side but level  on the offside.

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