Jump to content

Morris Minor Ratrod - Big Rusty Holes


SiC
 Share

Recommended Posts

That disnae sound right at all for something at that price! Even the cheap chinese inverter migs I've seen have a pretty much instant arc. I think that would piss me right off when doing thin stuff as you say. Still, if the welds on the Galaxie are anything to go by I'd love to see what you can get up to with a machine you rate. 😂

Despite the odd hiccup with my R-Tech I'm enjoying it - the infinite adjustment is brilliant. Sometimes the tiny nudge on the voltage is just right where you need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GingerNuttz said:

I've got the pearl 210 and I hate it 😂

The delay from pulling the trigger till it arcs is doing my head in and the synergic thing is utter junk, I'm contemplating going back to a transformer mig. 

 

I used my mates 3 in 1 Parweld synergic thing recently on a Connect van and got on with it fine out the box, maybe worth a look? I just set it to the minimum 50 amps that showed on the meter and got on with it, I'm assuming it's on 0.8mm wire, I didn't look tbh.

As for Oxford transformer welders he's also got the big daddy 400 amp single phase unit with the 10m cassette extension and so far it's been a cracking bit of kit but very far from being portable! Imo if you know your way round a welder you just don't need the synergic complication in the mix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Scruffy Bodger said:

I used my mates 3 in 1 Parweld synergic thing recently on a Connect van and got on with it fine out the box, maybe worth a look? I just set it to the minimum 50 amps that showed on the meter and got on with it, I'm assuming it's on 0.8mm wire, I didn't look tbh.

As for Oxford transformer welders he's also got the big daddy 400 amp single phase unit with the 10m cassette extension and so far it's been a cracking bit of kit but very far from being portable! Imo if you know your way round a welder you just don't need the synergic complication in the mix.

I'm not really bothered about portability tbf but need something that has 4 rollers to push a 5-6m torch. 

The whole inverter/synergic thing made me want to give one a go but I'm not impressed. I'll give it a better go on the next project but I'm fairly certain I'll be replacing it in the near future or I'll let the wife use it and I'll grab something else.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

15 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said:

I'll let the wife use it

I didn't know you were married to @captain_70s 😯

I'd have a speak to either the retailer or GYS UK on your problems. Playing around with different button combinations there are some secret menus. I can't find anything at all on what they do so I haven't touched them. But there might be something they can tweak. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said:

I'm not really bothered about portability tbf but need something that has 4 rollers to push a 5-6m torch. 

The whole inverter/synergic thing made me want to give one a go but I'm not impressed. I'll give it a better go on the next project but I'm fairly certain I'll be replacing it in the near future or I'll let the wife use it and I'll grab something else.

 

That delay on yours sounds like a right old pain in the arse as it'll mess with your timing something chronic I'd imagine, especially when you are welding 8x4 sheets into Yank barges 😮

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Scruffy Bodger said:

That delay on yours sounds like a right old pain in the arse as it'll mess with your timing something chronic I'd imagine, especially when you are welding 8x4 sheets into Yank barges 😮

You get into that rhythm in your head and GYS just goes and ruins it 😂 

Don't get me wrong when it's laying a constant seam it's absolutely fine but it's the stop start welding it's really pissing me off.

As Sic said it could be as simple as a setting needing tweaked so I'll look into it next time I use it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, GingerNuttz said:

You get into that rhythm in your head and GYS just goes and ruins it 😂 

Don't get me wrong when it's laying a constant seam it's absolutely fine but it's the stop start welding it's really pissing me off.

As Sic said it could be as simple as a setting needing tweaked so I'll look into it next time I use it.

All right and good if you are welding rsj's. Your work shows the welding is intuitive, the easy bit, standing on your head, twist a dial, done? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



When I pull the trigger on my 162 it's instant and you get that spot rhythm going on thinner stuff but with the Pearl the delay seems to be a second or more and it's putting me off my game 


This is when I push the trigger on my torch. To me it seems zero delay from trigger in, gas and wire out.


There is a delay welding function but I've never used that, so leave it in standard weld mode.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Arch in and welds dressed back.
2bc41823b5ab0b302f29fa4ff81b5875.jpg

Then a splash of zinc primer and black paint.
48f3fc10da2b9a18ae95af5cfe2c3b4f.jpg

Haven't welded the inside chassis rail yet, so that will be tomorrows job. Does mean I'll end up repainting this outside section as it'll be burnt off. Once that is done, filler to smoothen things out and then some body colour paint.

I do need to get a chance to go into town and pick up some new rubber wing beading and fixing bolts. Bit of a hassle to have a half hour journey for those bits, but it's the final thing left to finish this repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/14/2021 at 5:03 PM, GingerNuttz said:

As Sic said it could be as simple as a setting needing tweaked so I'll look into it next time I use it.

Having a look through the manual on yours there are these options. I think I found them on mine by accident but I don't remember seeing them in my manual? I'll have a play with them on mine tomorrow, especially as I'd like to reduce the burn back slightly on mine too. Not sure what SELF is?

Screenshot_20210916-003518.thumb.png.94ac81fcb25edee19205efa2e38af481.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said:

Yours feeds much faster than mine, I'll have a look at the settings when I go up tomorrow and see if I can sort it out.

That I think was set to MIG Synergic with 0.6mm steel wire/CO2 Argon mix and 1mm steel/+2 trim/downwards butt welding. Feed roller set for 0.6mm wire, tension set I think quite high and 3m long genuine Binzel MB15 torch with its standard liner. Wire is (iirc) SWP Super 6, 5kg roll of 0.6mm. 

It would be interesting to see if yours acts differently after doing a factory reset as mentioned in the manual above. 

On the Moggie, 1mm +2 trim tends to work for me best. On the Dolomite I knock that back to 0.8mm or 0.9mm as the steel is a bit thinner and it doesn't blow holes in it then. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, GingerNuttz said:

I'll swap my 6m mb25 to my 3m mb15 and see if it makes a diff.

"For welding 0.6 wire use a torch no longer than 3m"

Screenshot_20210916-125612.thumb.png.1ed23dc676bd701725dcdba209153c1c.png

Possibly would explain the problems you have on the Synergic mode. With a 6m long torch it would have to be pushing it harder. Now the machine I believe tracks the wire feed rate but it can only do that by the rollers moving. If the wire is slipping on the rollers then what it thinks it's outputting won't be reality. A 0.6mm is probably a bit too thin for the rollers to grab hold of and push through a torch.

My machine will weld with a 4m torch but I need to keep the roller and liner spotless. But then I only have a single roller setup where you have two, so that should aid running longer torches. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used 0.6mm as I read that is usually the preferred stuff for car bodywork. I've got about half a roll of 0.8mm that came with the machine that I plan to give a go once I've run out of the wire I'm currently on. I'm interested to see how it compares. I presume you get a bigger weld pool with it? Obv the machines wire speed will reduce too and will be interested if that becomes too low for it to be accurately fed by the machine. 

My torch probably needs a good clean down soon anyway. Liner needs a blast through, the tip is getting loose and I managed to weld the nozzle onto the workpiece yesterday, so that's now a bit misshapen. 🤣

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can get the same results from 0.6 but it's not as good as 0.8 imo, I feel 0.8 is a better all rounder for thin and thick stuff with a 15% mix. I've welded down to 0.5mm steel on a transformer machine using 0.8 mm without issues and never really saw the point of changing to 0.6 to do the same job. 

Many people use 0.6 and 5% mix and do fine with it but for 4mm + steel and a 6m torch it's useless. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been welding the fronts of forklifts here and there plus I've built a few manifolds for bikes carbs for a few people using between 5-10mm steel bases. 

The Herald chassis was only 2-3 mm and would fold like a coke can in a crash, I had to reinforce it in places to cope with the extra power from engine. 

Once people know you can weld they usually ask you to fix all sorts of crap 😂 This is the reason I tell no one I can weld aluminium on the tig. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.


      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

       






      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...









      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.







      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
       
      Faults:
       
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
       
      Good points:
       
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
       
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:
       

       
      Plans:
       
      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
       
      I will update this thread once progress is made.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Hopefully these two will become good friends.
       

    • By juular
      Old car - check
      Full of rust - check
      Siezed engine - check
      Cheapest on the internet - check
      Bought sight unseen - check
      No space for it - check
      Poo count - 1.5
       
    • By Peter C
      I bought a lovely Mini Cooper S from @Sunny Jim which my wife and I collected yesterday. See here:
      The Cooper made the 250 mile 4.5 hour journey to Buckinghamshire (from North Wales!) under its own steam but all was not well under the bonnet. The fresh air vents were providing anything but fresh air, I was choking on oily fumes. I stopped on route and wiped a lot of oil from the rocker cover and gently kept going, keeping the engine revs below 3k.
      Before you read any further, I have absolutely no qualms about the car or the deal I made with @Sunny Jim I bought an 18 year old car with 120k, sold as seen, of course there will be problems! 
      I investigated further this morning. There was oil all over the front of the engine and on top of the exhaust manifold shield.


      I went to remove plug lead No 2 and it came off in two pieces, the metal connector has split from the cable.

      Next I removed the sparkplugs. Plugs 1 and 4 were a little moist but plugs 2 and 3 were sinking in engine oil.


      The rocker cover gasket and plug well seals were obviously knackered, a typical R50/53 fault. 
      To get the rocket cover off...

      All this had to be removed. It's by no means a difficult job but it was time consuming. There is a bit more space under the bonnet of my W123 & W124!

      I've bought a new set of leads £18 and I'm picking up the gasket set tomorrow morning (£40). Hopefully the whole lot will go back together without any issues.
      Look at this engine, it's hard to believe that it's done 120k miles in 18 years. Everything under the rocker cover looks mint!

      In other news, to replace a blown brake light bulb I had to remove the entire light unit. How stupid. Modern* cars ehh?

      The annoying rattle from the tailgate was silenced with a 4 inch length of insulation tape, wrapped around the lock catch.

      I do like a clean exhaust pipe. Or two. Out came the Brasso and I am pleased with the shine.

      And finally, I've noticed that the small lights in the front bumper flick on randomly. According to the experts on a Facebook group, the presence of LED bulbs is upsetting the system.

    • By vulgalour
      Fackin oops.
       

       
      My goal was not to buy any more cars but with the Lanchester out of action while we work through it and make it safe to use, and the Princess out of action and needing the engine to be removed (a job I am procrastinating about, and when I'm motivated am thwarted by schedule and weather conflicts) it was getting more obvious that I needed some personal transport.  Something basic and reliable that I know my way around, that's going to be cheap to buy and run.  This is an ideal candidate, on paper.
      Whether I really can just use it as An Car or will end up getting all finicky about making it nice remains to be seen.  I just want some hasslefree pootling for a few months and normally Maestros are just that.
×
×
  • Create New...