project Morris Minor Ratrod - First drive since 1989!

[GingerNuttz]

Should have knocked it out more before filling it so you're using less filler. Sand filler with 40 grit then 80 once you get it roughly flat then move to top stop or the like so it fills your heavy scratches in. 

[SiC]

A rare day yesterday where it wasn't throwing it down. So got sanding the filler and throwing some paint on the rear.



The side is getting there. Ran out of filler though. Pretty sure it's had a scrape along this panel in its long distant past. Its repair being a new section welded in, warped (gas welded?) and then plenty of filler.


Right now with the weather turning, my key aim is to get it the best as I can and lob paint on. It was already going below 10c last night and marginal for the paint. I've got another window to get this side done on Friday where it's sunny and warmer.

For now, I've duct tape the plastic sheet back on to keep the weather off the bare steel.


Then I need to get the brakes done sharp-ish and back on the road. It can then hide away undercover in storage until Spring next year.

I must full steam ahead on the Dolomite and just get that body done now. I've been pondering about getting a pro welder in and just finishing that side off. Then I can focus on the other side - hopefully with less work needed.

[SiC]

Changed to a different filler this evening. Last time I used bigboy ultra fine and this time bigboy lightweight. Also got some P38 to try on the Dolomite.

The lightweight filler was a lot more runnier and I found easier to work with. Spread much smoother and easier to put less on.



I'd like to have a few more filler, sand cycles but I was fast running out of time. The next couple of days the weather is turning even wetter and colder. So I had to get paint on this evening no matter what.

So I threw on some paper and tape to roughly mask off the window. The seals are knackered on this car so I wasn't too bothered if there was some over spray on them. Next summer I will take the glass out and properly paint the car. Right now it's protecting the bare metal from the elements.


Sprayed a high build filler in the hope to hide some of the blemishes. I used Simonz brand spray paint and to be honest I don't get on with their nozzles. End up putting far too much on and causing run marks. I've had their zinc primer and red oxide primer - both same problems. Think might try finding another brand. Annoying as the paint itself is pretty decent and the cans aren't ridiculously priced.
I used some thick paper as a rough smoother to reduce them.



Then a quick coat of cellulose paint after leaving it a good half hour to dry. It's 10c out there and just about warm enough for it to dry properly.



The finishing of this side is certainly not my best work, but as ever my aim is always to leave it in a better state than it was previously.

Previously the filler work was pretty bad and chipping off anyway. Rough finish and chunks that had come off were rusted underneath.

Only picture I can find of before and pre-cleaned, but gives a good idea.

[barrett]

I know MM parts aren't exactly scarce, but is this lot of any interest to you? I would have thought an electronic ignition kit and carpet set would be worth most of the asking price, but who knows. Does look like a few shed's worth of bits tbh but possibly useful to cherry-pick and then sell the rest?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/941000633151966/

[SiC]

4 hours ago, barrett said:

I know MM parts aren't exactly scarce, but is this lot of any interest to you? I would have thought an electronic ignition kit and carpet set would be worth most of the asking price, but who knows. Does look like a few shed's worth of bits tbh but possibly useful to cherry-pick and then sell the rest?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/941000633151966/

I got two estate boot loads of Moggie and A-Series parts with mine that I have no idea what I'm going to do with. As tempting as it is, being a massive hoarder, I think I'd be doubling/triplicate on a lot of stuff. Thanks for the thought and finding it though. Maybe useful to @Joey spud

While I've got your attention and I know you're pretty clued up on really old stuff, do you have any idea what this Bosch horn and what it could be off? It was in the stash of parts that came with my Moggie.

Markings say Bosch HO/ESA6B16.

 

[Mally]

They fitted them on Minors at some time or other.

Worth about 10 bob!

[SiC]

Not had much time to work on this.

Did strip off the underseal


Krust


Then rattle can primer and then black with poundland paint.


Will put some underseal on once back in the car.

[SiC]

Also pulled the sender


Cleaned the inside by spraying copious amounts of contact cleaner (IPA) and working the contact wipers back + forth. Resistance a lot more progressive now and doesn't jump around as it did before. Hopefully will make the gauge a tad more reliable.

[SiC]

Today was another rare day that I had a bit of free time to work on cars. Except I slept to nearly mid day...

Anyhow the tank is painted.


Then set onto changing the rear nearside wheel bearing and damaged stud. This entails removing the hub from the back axle.

Stud thread was damaged and busted the wheel nuts. I probably could have recut the thread but a new stud is cheap and the bearing was grounchy anyway.

Drum back off. Half shaft out.



I didn't have a socket big enough to undo this nut. However someone else previously has removed it with a chisel. So I felt less guilty doing that myself. I marked up too where it was currently set at, so I knew how far to retighten.



Next I had to pull off the hub. There is a special service tool that fits in the middle that your puller can press against. I didn't have said tool and decided instead of buying one, I'll use a socket instead. Two old sockets are used here, one to press against the axle and the other for the puller centre to press against.


Worked a treat. Decent impact is really handy here.

 

I did try with my little Milwaukee stubby but it just didn't have the strength. The bigger impact actually is easier in cases like this. As each impact bang is much higher, you can run it much slower and more controlled.


Hub off


No damage to the axle insides.


I bought this press off red5 a while ago and, despite something infrequently used, it's incredibly useful for things like this. Out comes the bearing.


I used an old brake drum to support the hub while pressing out the stud. It let go with a satisfying but also unnerving crack.


Removed the old seal. This left behind a metal insert.


I don't think this is needed on the new seal so I removed it. You can see the old seal (right) is smaller than the new (left).


Seal in


New bearing pushed in carefully.


Then tapped the hub back on with the shaft lightly lubed with oil. A mix of big sockets is incredibly handy here.


Nut back on with a new tab washer bent over.


Went slightly further than it was originally. I don't think this is supposed to be mega tight anyway?


Drum back on


Then wheel back on. I've put on one of the white Wellers that also came with the car. I think they look quite good! The Dunlop Remoulds will definitely need replacing though.


I also changed the other side.


Now the diff oil needed replacing. This was very low, most likely from the slight leak it's had for years.



Then dropped the back end to allow the remainder to drain.


As I had the fuel tank out, it makes refilling far easier.


Took a full 1 litre bottle of oil to pretty much fill to the top. Close enough that there isn't any point to open another bottle and make it overflow out.


Back end just needs the tank back in, arch back on and bumper iron reattaching. All of which can be done with the car on the ground.

Now I need to crack on with the front. Calipers/pads freeing up, flexis replacing, master replacing and remote reservoir fitting. Then bleeding all around the car and hoping I can get pressure!


Wheel off. Does anyone know if these are actually Marina brakes as I've been assuming?


Tie rod boot is knackered. No play though, so I think I'll just try getting a new boot.


Flexis I think are date coded 1986?


I also painted the boot with some acrylic Navy Blue paint that I hoped would be sort of the right colour. Turned out absolutely awful coverage. Might just rough it all up and spray it black instead!
Or stick on some carpet and pretty up the boot.

 

[purplebargeken]

Nice work Si.  Progress!!!!

[SiC]

Set to work on the front end this evening.

First off was replacing the completely knackered TRE boot


First time I've used this tool. Need to get a few different types really. I think I picked it up at FoD when someone bought a big box of old tools they were giving away.


Also removed the Flexi




Then the caliper


Pads had rusted into the caliper


Gave the discs a quick whizz over with the wire wheel to remove surface rust.


More problematic on the caliper are the pistons completely seized in. I was hoping to replace the seals and pistons myself but now I'll either have to rebuild these or find a replacement pair.

Presumably the brand new Marina calipers are a straight swap? Also presumably this is definitely a marina caliper. Not sure how you tell?


Removed the caliper on the other side and that was seized too. TRE boot was in good condition though, so I didn't replace that.

Greased up. The G.Coupler attachment is definitely a massive improvement over the original included one on the grease gun.


Finally removed the hydraulic fittings from the master cylinder before calling it a night.

[SiC]

Just spunked a bunch of cash at ESM again and bought new. If they don't fit, I'll get these refurbed.

Bigg Red were £140 for refurb plus cost and time to ship them. ESM were £160 for a set of new shipped next day. Also ordered fresh pads+fitting kit for good measure.

Just added up what I've spent so far ... I need to sell the engines and diffs to make some money back soon.

[SiC]

Issigonis folly.

These two bolts hold in the brake master cylinder. Problem is that they are blocked by the torsion bar used for the suspension.

After a lot of prying on one of the bolt heads, I managed to get it bent down enough to move one. Once I did that, I stuck a socket on that bolt head to keep the bar down. Then moved the other bolt out enough.



It was easy to lever here but there wasn't quite enough movement to get it bent down enough for the head to come out. But enough to allow the shaft to.


The master cylinder was still a fight to remove. That brake pushrod was stopping it easily being removed. A lot of wiggling later it came out.


Didn't look in promising condition looking at the end. I envisioned this and already have a brand new cylinder to hand.


Stripping it down showed the bore to be buggered too.


These are all the pieces that make up the hydraulic portion. The very left piece I need remove on the new master. It holds a slight pressure on the brake circuit to stop the wheel cylinders retracting. But as it has front discs, you don't want that happening. Otherwise it'll drag the brakes leading to overheating and excessive wear.


Replacement calipers haven't arrived yet. Parcelforce was supposed to pick up the delivery from ESM yesterday but appear to only have done so today.

No matter as it gave me a chance to drain down the cooling circuit. It's now refilled with antifreeze rather than the water+flushing agent that was in there. As there is no fuel tank, I couldn't start the engine. Instead I squirted some easy start down the carb and got it running for brief periods. Hopefully enough shaking and agitation to mix the two together. Getting nearly to freezing overnight around here now.

[SiC]

Fitted the calipers yesterday. Quite a pleasurable job.

Bolted on and matched up perfectly.


A slight different install compared to the last setup. The Flexi is in a different position on the Moggies compared to the Marina and you are supposed to have a hard line from the caliper to Flexi first. If you look at the previous photos of the old caliper, you'll see the hose was quite stretched when at full lock.
The hose from ESM has a small plate from which the hard-line attaches.


If you look at mercrockers installation photo, his is this side. But I wouldn't be able to get the hard-line installed like this.


So I went the otherside.



The hard-line then needs bending to shape. I hate trying to bend brake line. Need to buy a proper flaring tool, pipe and fittings. That way it's not a one shot deal if I mess up.


Thankfully this ended out reasonably neat and tidy.



Pads in. Chose to use some new pads instead of reusing the old ones. Old ones were rusty on the backing plate, so potential for binding and new ones are cheap enough.


Done


Otherside was the same except it was evening and I did it in the dark.


Tried to decide where to put the remote reservoir container. At the moment I've fitted it where the old dynamo regulator control box lived. It doesn't hit the bonnet but it's close.

Not sure it's the best place for it being brake fluid is flammable and right next to the fuse box. Might move it to somewhere on the wing. Possibly on the strengthening plate where the loom runs behind.

[PhilA]

Scrolling back, that horn looks almost identical in casting to the Delco horns I've got on my Pontiac.

An A/B pair sound good, a deep, oboe sounding parp from each at a slight discord is enough to wake most people out of their driving slumber.

Requires a relay

[SiC]

Sticking this in here as it probably should have gone in here, in the first place.

Feeling like shit at the moment with life seemingly wanting to conspire against me. Anyhow to cheer myself up, I've been doing a bit of Moggie work. Not many pictures as not feeling up to another write up.

Got the master cylinder in though, remote brake reservoir and gravity bled the brakes. Still air in them, so will need to try pumping them with an assistant. But there is pedal pressure now and I've been able to adjust the rear drums + handbrake.

Also put the fuel tank in and gave it a start. Took quite a lot of churning to get it to start but eventually it did. Then a huge amount of smoke as the carb overflowed onto the exhaust. Wasn't overflowing before, so no idea why it's decided to now. Unfortunately a replacement needle and seat are backordered at most places.

Apart from that, it just needs the offside rear outer wing bolting back on and going for a drive.

Looking good on the weller wheels though.

[SiC]

The carb on this has a number of problems. One of which is the float getting stuck, despite repeated taps to clear it. As it lives directly above the exhaust manifold, it creates alarming amount of smoke as the fuel hits and vapourises.


So took the carb off the other day, then stripped down and cleaned up last night.




One the problems it has is the choke doesn't work. The jet is stuck in the jet bearing.



I suspected old fuel and oil gumming it up. I left plus gas soaking for a day but didn't loosen it up. A good blast with the heat gun did though and it wiggled out.


An ultrasonic cleaner is something I keep meaning to buy as would be ideal for this type of job. Instead I melted 6 pairs of gloves and got high on carb cleaner while I scrubbed it with a tooth brush, working on the garage floor.


SU carb parts are really hard to get hold of at the moment. Seems to be a supply or manufacturing issue they are having. I'd have liked a new needle and float valve but everywhere seems out of stock at the moment. I've cleaned those bits up the best as I could and they seem to work but can only really tell once back on the car.

I did manage to get a gasket set and a new jet.


The old jet actually didn't appear that worn. However it's likely suffered damage from heat and mechanical application to remove it from the jet bearing.


After scrubbing up the carb, I reassembled and replaced the gaskets where I could. I re-centred the jet as best as I could. Always feels a bit blind when adjusting it. However the piston and needle moves up and down freely without impinging on the jet.

The choke mechanism works better now but still not the best. Pretty crap design that I think was revised later on. A small amount of GT85 on the jet shaft got it moving smoothly and some careful bending of the choke arm got it moving roughly the right way.





Hopefully I can get it on the car in the next day or so and tune it in. Currently set to the pretty standard two turns of the nut after leveling off at the jet bridge. No idea if this is right or not for this engine as the stuck jet made the last tune hard to ascertain. I believe the carb (so presumably needle too) is from a ADO16 1300, so should roughly be in the right fuelling range. But well could need it turning out a fair bit more.

Next just a case of getting the outer arch back on then I can give it's first proper run up and down the road outside here. Brakes will need a better bleed but they work enough for a short run.

[dave j]

Good to see an update on this one, it looks great on the Weller's! It's a crap time of year for tinkering outside isn't it

[barrett]

getting there man! Gonna be so satisfying when you can take this for a test-drive round the block, keep up the momentum and you'll be there in no time!

[stuboy]

great work

[SiC]

Time for a thread update. I've been posting on N24 but I'll try do a catch up first.

I've had a few distractions the last few months. A4 cacked it, caught covid, sold Fabia, fence blew down and needed replacing, then bought another (older) A4 that needed some work. First thing was I bought a replacement alternator from eBay when a promo code discount was on. Think it was like £45 shipped.



New alternator is 45amp versus the old 30amp. The ammeter gets a bit upset with this and pegs to max, getting stuck there until the gauge gets a tap.


Next up was the battery tray was pretty flaky rust and a bit sorry for itself. I cleaned off the loose rust, sprayed primer, black satin and then a bitumen type underseal. Hopefully the bitumen underseal will prevent any battery outgassing from rotting through the tray. Also a cheap 075 battery from Tayna was fitted. Should have more than enough juice to provide plenty of cranking time if ever needed.





Finally I cracked on with the rear wheel arch. A job I'd been putting off as right pia. I bought a fibreglass replacement but decided the old steel arch would be easier to fit. The old one was full of rusty holes and a knackered lip. So a lot of welding, filling and painting later (think 5 cycles of filling+sanding), I had the original arch to go back on. There is a lot of filler on it to bring back the shape from dents and welding, but at least it's a metal arch. Plus not a structural piece anyway.









Today I got on with refitting. This involved measuring and drilling holes in the right place. Also had to fit the beading.



The beading was a right arse to fit. I used some spray glue to stick it in place. This ended up making a right mess but it did hold it in place. I should have had the beading further down though so it squished in more.




After a lot of messing about, it was on. I did crack the filler at the bottom back when I had to bend it more into shape. So scraped that all off and repainted. Running out of paint which is a pain as the place I got it from don't stock Trafalgar Blue cellulose anymore. Will have to try to find somewhere else. I think Charles Ware parts stock it and in cellulose too.


I then coated the inside of the inside of the wheel arch with copious amounts of that bitumen underseal. Hopefully this won't need any more work for many years to come.


All that is left to do now is refit the tail light, put the wheel back on and back seats back in. Then go for the first drive!

Also going to need some tyres and fit the seatbelts I've got. Nothing else then apart from it could really do with a paint job. Or keep the messy rat-look Patina.

I've already got it in my mind that I want to sell it 🙄

[LightBulbFun]

32 minutes ago, SiC said:

I've already got it in my mind that I want to sell it 🙄

Aww! I think you should really get it on the road and enjoy it a bit, especially  after all the work you put into it!  

and If you sell it now, I can see you regretting selling it/wanting another, much like what happened with the ADO16's

after all you bought a Morris Minor because you wanted a Morris minor, not just another weld-athon like the first ADO16 was (or maybe you miss the misery and did just want another welding exercise? I mean this is Autoshite after all )

I can also see it getting robbed of its plate about 3 seconds after you flog it, which would be a massive shame

 

but I have been enjoying the updates on its progress and I am pleased to see some more progress  

[SiC]

12 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

I can also see it getting robbed of its plate about 3 seconds after you flog it, which would be a massive shame

It is tempting to preempt it and do it myself tbh. 

[purplebargeken]

Do it....

[Andyrew]

9 hours ago, SiC said:

It is tempting to preempt it and do it myself tbh. 

If it was an original minter it would be a shame,  but if you can cash in on the plate and put some dosh in the shite car fund then get it done i say!

 

 

[tooSavvy]

So, then, is the 'plate' worth coin because it is short... Or some other reason? 🤔

Like an old moggie, me 👍

[SiC]

2 minutes ago, tooSavvy said:

So, then, is the 'plate' worth coin because it is short... Or some other reason? 🤔

Like an old moggie, me 👍

Short and no age identification. It's probably worth around a grand on a good day. Tbh I'd be tempted to keep it for myself, even though it has no specific meaning for me.

Given the length the car has been off the road, I'd want to get it MOT first to reduce the chance of the DVLA requesting inspection and all the hassle around that. 

[mk2_craig]

I think it might be worth a chunk more than that and be some reward for all the effort that went into first obtaining, then recommissioning the car (both of which I sense were a lot greater than you had originally intended).

The only downside being that at first glance it looks similar to registrations starting B8, which are very much more common/less valuable. But the Minor wouldn't be worth a huge amount less on an age related mark and in your position, I'd almost certainly do the same.

[New POD]

12 hours ago, SiC said:

It is tempting to preempt it and do it myself tbh. 

88 CWL ? 

I'll give you £300

 

Okay I'm joking.

The closest on DVLA is this 

A dateless one must be worth £££££s surely?   I'm.surprised you still have it. 

 

[LightBulbFun]

2 hours ago, tooSavvy said:

So, then, is the 'plate' worth coin because it is short... Or some other reason? 🤔

Like an old moggie, me 👍

 

2 hours ago, SiC said:

Short and no age identification. It's probably worth around a grand on a good day. Tbh I'd be tempted to keep it for myself, even though it has no specific meaning for me.

Given the length the car has been off the road, I'd want to get it MOT first to reduce the chance of the DVLA requesting inspection and all the hassle around that. 

I can see it being considered worth a bit more because its matching double digits and their are 8's at that

for whatever reason all 8 plates tend to be somewhat sought after, to the point someone in 1998 robbed an Invacar of its number plate XEV88S (now VES108S) which really fucked with someone research for 20 years, as it hid the XEV-S block from them and made them think it was a private non ministry car when it was not, but I doubt anyone cares or thinks about that when they take the plate off something! (like the fact you are effectively hiding the car from anyone who may of known about it in the past and may be trying to find it again etc)

 

the other downside to robbing it of its plate as well robbing it of its identity, it also means you will have to physically change the number plates

and those look like some lovely period plates on the car it would be a shame to lose those!