Really really boring Focus Buyers Guide

[sierraman]

As promised from a post on the questions a bit of a buyers guide to the Mk2 Focus, from time to time people post about going to look at one or whatever so here’s what you need to know...

Engines

Duratec

1.4 - only offered until the facelift, slow, not much more economical than the 1.6. Unless it’s a really clean one I’d avoid this. Prone to the getting very smoky as the engine simply isn’t up to the job.

1.6 - Again no ball of fire but reasonable enough, expect 34-38mpg round the houses. Nice simple belt changes on these, a couple hours labour and £50-60 for the kit. Coils can fail frequently, changed to pencil coils on later facelift. Frequent coil replacements can be down to the wiring to the coil which goes brittle. A new section you can splice in is £15 on eBay, make this your first point of call for a misfire. 

Another cause of misfire is the coil plugs on the top of the cylinder head, these corrode, become porous then let coolant piss out round the plugs which if left will corrode the plugs in. Not a difficult job to swap. Similar symptoms can be the washer fluid unions leaking, the fluid then sits in the rocker and filters down past the plug seals into the recess the plugs sit in. You can prevent this with a rocker cover from a Volvo C30, simply bolts in place and stops the water from getting in there.

1.6 TiVCT - worth a mention on its own, better torque and MPG through variable valve timing, you can spot this unit by the VVT solenoids on the cam cover. Worth seeking out as it makes for a much better unit, usually fitted to the Ghia as an option. Neglect on these however will mean the gauze on the supply in the VVT solenoids will block and knacker the variators. Avoid any that exhibit a rattle on start up. Also the timing belt procedure is a little different on these requiring locking tools for the cam sprockets as opposed to the bar on the end of the cams as per the standard 1.6. Bear in mind as well the TiVCT has a number of components that are not interchangeable with the standard 1.6. 

1.8/2.0 - these are the Mazda based chain cam units, common issue is the water cooled EGR on the side of the head blocking throwing the EML. A bigger problem is the oil control rings on the 1.8 which is so widespread by now most will be suffering with it, eventually this results in an MOT fail and a smoke screen, unless you can be bothered with knocking the pistons out it pretty much writes the car off. This is that common that I’d be inclined to avoid the 1.8 unless it’s practically give away money. The 2.0 does not seem to suffer with this. 

Diesels

1.6 TDCI - Lower powered versions lacked the DPF. You all probably know this but the most common issue is turbo failure, there’s loads under spares and repair for this issue. Basically the fine gauze on the banjo oil feed for the turbo blocks with predictable results. New turbo cassettes aren’t that expensive but the warranty specifies a full strip down and replacement of the oil feeds and pick up. Some say it’s hastened by the injector seals leaking, which incidentally I’d check as well for ‘chuffing’. A dirty filthy job involving literally digging the injectors out. 20k service intervals didn’t help either. If you can find one that runs good, has been serviced any you can do the preventative jobs then you might drop on. But a bad one will be err... bad.

1.8 TDCI - based on the old Lynx unit, the design dates back to dicks days. Gruff but if it’s maintained properly it’ll run and run. Has 2 timing runs, a top belt round the cam and the injector pump and up to 2007 a chain running round the cam and the injector pump. Round about 2007 was replaced with a wet belt, be wary of one that’s proclaiming having had the belt done, it’s probably just had the top belt done. Another few hours labour on top to replace the lower belt plus £70 for a new lower belt cassette means it gets ignored. Belt interval is 125k but it may go longer. The BIO belts really don’t like dirty oil, or for that matter engine flush. Injectors are Siemens and as far as I know don’t require programming.

2.0 TDCI - a good unit, based on the PSA unit in the Mondeo. Same foibles, but generally a good unit, you definitely don’t want the turbo to go on one as it’s a bitch to get at, as is the EGR and the Glow Plugs. 

[sierraman]

Body

Does not rust anything like as bad as the Mk1 but m a lot of early models are going round the backs of the sills. 

Front wings rot on the leading edge, some really bad others not at all. 

Ford factory standard boot leak is usually the seam sealer dried up round the bumper or the rear light clusters. The spoilers also can piss water in as well.

Rear arches can be scabby as well. Watch the rear spring upper mounts as well as the trailing arm mounts. These are hidden by a plastic panel unlike the old Focus.

[sierraman]

Suspension 

Front - Drop links as per any Ford common failure. Wishbones much more durable than the old Mk2 Mondeos and Escorts but still the rear bushes perish and eventually delaminate. Not a huge issue as parts are cheap and it’s not a terrible job. 

Rear - Treat Knocks and bangs at the back seriously as while the parts are cheap the bolts have a habit of seizing to the inner steel bushing meaning the bolts will just rip the bush out. Out comes the air saw or the grinder. Avoid disturbing the track control bolts at the back at all costs, the eccentric washer will be seized as well. Trailing arms require the proper Press, reckon on £50-60 for the press from eBay. Pressing them in any other way will probably result in bending the arms. Springs like any car can break, if you can use those spring compressors that work from just one side with cups then so much the better to avoid hacking seized bolts. 

Gearbox

Reckon on the clutch on the petrol lasting between 80-120k. The diesel the DMF will go before the clutch, the 1.8 TDCI is harder on the the DMF than the others, reckon on £6-700 for a replacement. 

Driveshafts seem to seize on the hub, sometimes easier to pick up a used strut and shaft if it’s rusted in there. 

Steering 

The 1.8/2.0 and the diesels use EPAS, sometimes the pump can fail causing errors on the dash. For some bizarre reason the combined pump and reservoir is hidden down the the front drivers side. 

Electrics

Cluster failure is common, resulting in eventual non start. The Immobiliser works through the cluster so this can result in a no start situation, the lead free solder on the pins on the back become brittle, you can usually just heat them up to rectify this. You cannot swap the cluster as it’s coded to the car without reprogramming.

[New POD]

Have you forgotten the ST?

Engine Size	2522cc
Cylinders	5
Valves	20
Fuel Type	Petrol
Transmission	Manual
Gearbox	6 Speed
Drivetrain	Front wheel drive

 

 

 

[sierraman]

6 minutes ago, New POD said:

Have you forgotten the ST?

Engine Size	2522cc
Cylinders	5
Valves	20
Fuel Type	Petrol
Transmission	Manual
Gearbox	6 Speed
Drivetrain	Front wheel drive

 

 

 

I didn’t bother I figured it would only be the awful cooking versions we would be bothered about. 

[New POD]

1 minute ago, sierraman said:

I didn’t bother I figured it would only be the awful cooking versions we would be bothered about. 

I'd like an ST, but none seem to have cruise control,  but i think Volvo used the same engine, so might have to look at them. 

[Landy Mann]

That all matches my experience with my 1.6 petrol. We've not had any running issues apart from the attached fault which doesn't seem to be very common or affect running. The rear arches are going rusty. Oh and the gearbox has lost 5th gear at around 107k miles...

[Jon]

Whilst you're on the subject @sierraman, would you be able to impart any knowledge on the Mk3 Mondeo? I'm thinking it's a similar(ish) age, so you could copy and paste many of the bits you've already mentioned but it's another common car of some use.

I also have a vested interest, as I'd like to keep my 2006 2.0 petrol manual Mondeo wagon going for a while longer. Currently on 437000km and I've done about 160000 of those over the last 6 years I've owned it. 

[Rod/b]

9 hours ago, Landy Mann said:

That all matches my experience with my 1.6 petrol. We've not had any running issues apart from the attached fault which doesn't seem to be very common or affect running. The rear arches are going rusty. Oh and the gearbox has lost 5th gear at around 107k miles...

I had this on my F150 - it started out causing occasional low speed stalls but ended up with the purge valve stuck open sucking air into the inlet, which conveniently threw it into limp mode on the m/way. Piece of piss to swap out. Can also be thrown on ford easy fuel equipped cars if the filler flap stops sealing properly. Replacement fillers have a revised flap thingummy. 

[GrumpiusMaximus]

Useful thread.  We have a pet Mk2 Focus 06 plate with the stunning, powerful and refined 1.4 petrol.  Lady Grumpius has owned it for about six years and it's been very reliable despite her neglect.  Rust on the OS wing and a little crusty around the wheel arches but that's about it body-work wise.  Power steering pipe went about a 15 months ago and caused an alarming amount of smoke and it needed a new alternator about 3 years ago.  Other than that, it's been very  good.  Even got a totally clean MOT pass this year.

1.4 is slow as all Hell but has mercifully short gearing so isn't so bad off the line.  It's when you're joining a motorway uphill that you really, really feel it.  Not helped by the 20 stone me in he passenger seat on occasion.  Definitely a car to rev the nuts off.

[sierraman]

3 hours ago, Jon said:

Whilst you're on the subject @sierraman, would you be able to impart any knowledge on the Mk3 Mondeo? I'm thinking it's a similar(ish) age, so you could copy and paste many of the bits you've already mentioned but it's another common car of some use.

I also have a vested interest, as I'd like to keep my 2006 2.0 petrol manual Mondeo wagon going for a while longer. Currently on 437000km and I've done about 160000 of those over the last 6 years I've owned it. 

Truth be told the 2.0 in those shape Mondeos were superb, not a lot goes wrong apart from the EGR. I did once have the exhaust manifold bracket break which caused an awful rasping noise but it was easily remedied. Not a bad engine to work on at all. 

Almost forgot the thermostat is a bitch actually on those, electronically controlled but Ford charge £££ for one, I fitted an aftermarket one for a fraction of that. Involves taking the headlight out and grille and working through the gap blind. Cue loads of lacerations to the backs of the hands.

[Shirley Knott]

I gave absolutely zero desire to own or buy a Ford Focus but still found this to be a great read. Props to @sierraman for taking the time here, a lovely clean write up that basically covers everything. 

Is there any way we could make this a 'sticky' so as to avoid it disappearing down the page? If we could get enough of these written up for different vehicles, it might even warrant a sub section within the forum for buyer's guides? 

 

 

[spartacus]

I'm by no means thinking of buying a Focus but I do like a write up presented in this way.

Thanks @sierraman

[Landy Mann]

12 hours ago, Rod/b said:

I had this on my F150 - it started out causing occasional low speed stalls but ended up with the purge valve stuck open sucking air into the inlet, which conveniently threw it into limp mode on the m/way. Piece of piss to swap out. Can also be thrown on ford easy fuel equipped cars if the filler flap stops sealing properly. Replacement fillers have a revised flap thingummy. 

Thanks for the pointers, I'll check out the filler cap, owning two easy fuel Ford's I now think unscrewing filler cap is exceptionally undignified.

Like heated windscreens a small bonus but well worth it

[Slappy]

I've got a mk2 with the 1.6 TiVCT saloon and had that since mid 2018. Ubiquitous bonnet opening mechanism replacement needed after I had a clutch spring go, which meant that was a more expensive bill than it should have been! Had the front nearside spring go right at the bottom, so had the pair replaced. Other than that, I've had very few dramas aside from quite a bit of moisture getting in the boot over this past year where it's not been used as much and is stored surrounded by greenery. I think that was my fault where I hadn't pulled the rear cluster plastic back under the boot seal allowing condensation to get in, but putting that one down to user error. Other than that a very fine vehicle IMO.

Checked prices recently too and they seem to be silly high, albeit that there are about 15 for sale in the country as opposed to 3000...

[stuboy]

On 4/26/2021 at 8:18 AM, sierraman said:

A bigger problem is the oil control rings on the 1.8 which is so widespread by now most will be suffering with it, eventually this results in an MOT fail and a smoke screen, unless you can be bothered with knocking the pistons out it pretty much writes the car off. This is that common that I’d be inclined to avoid the 1.8 unless it’s practically give away money.

my 2007 mondeo i gave it away cause of this.........

[MJK 24]

Great write up! 

Christ, modern cars can be hard work 😬 

[tommotech]

Good work on the guide, my personal view is that the focus is under rated and easily dismissed in favour of VAG shite. I’ve had good service from both marques but enjoyed my mk1 ‘99 focus more. 

[stripped fred]

My 2006 cmax 1.6 petrol, acquired from my mum, has been fine. Fast enough, economical and quite big. Little bit of rust at corner of arches now but nothing major. Good basic transport, practical and quite good to drive. Fine for kids, dogs, tip runs and days out, remember those...?

[SiC]

I can't help reading this and thinking...

TL;DR buy a Civic Mk8 (Spaceship) 1.8 or 2.2 and not worry about any of that (apart from clutch+flywheel on a 2.2).

[sierraman]

22 minutes ago, stuboy said:

my 2007 mondeo i gave it away cause of this.........

Saw a Mk3 1.8 Estate today for £350, was very tempted. 

[FakeConcern]

On 4/26/2021 at 8:48 PM, New POD said:

Have you forgotten the ST?

Engine Size	2522cc
Cylinders	5
Valves	20
Fuel Type	Petrol
Transmission	Manual
Gearbox	6 Speed
Drivetrain	Front wheel drive

 

 

 

I am the owner of a Swedish style Mk2 Focus ST, I found this thread very interesting, but also wondered this...

On 4/26/2021 at 8:55 PM, sierraman said:

I didn’t bother I figured it would only be the awful cooking versions we would be bothered about. 

Oh well!

On 4/26/2021 at 8:59 PM, New POD said:

I'd like an ST, but none seem to have cruise control,  but i think Volvo used the same engine, so might have to look at them. 

You should do that if you fancy an incognito ST, I love mine! (I think it's the other way around as in Ford used the Volvo T5 engine)

[Rod/b]

9 hours ago, Landy Mann said:

Thanks for the pointers, I'll check out the filler cap, owning two easy fuel Ford's I now think unscrewing filler cap is exceptionally undignified.

Like heated windscreens a small bonus but well worth it

To check the purge valve pull off the vapour pipe that runs to it from the fuel tank, and with the engine running put your finger over the valve. If there’s suction there it has failed open and means you’re effectively running with an air leak. 

[Jazoli]

On these if you have a wet footwell it's usually the o rings on the heater pipes that go through the bulkhead, they are cheap and easy enough to do if not a little fiddly.

[New POD]

8 hours ago, FakeConcern said:

I am the owner of a Swedish style Mk2 Focus ST, I found this thread very interesting, but also wondered this...

Oh well!

You should do that if you fancy an incognito ST, I love mine! (I think it's the other way around as in Ford used the Volvo T5 engine)

I fancy a C30, but T5 versions are a bit out of my range. Is the 2.0 177 bhp engine out of a focus ? 

[FakeConcern]

40 minutes ago, New POD said:

I fancy a C30, but T5 versions are a bit out of my range. Is the 2.0 177 bhp engine out of a focus ? 

I think that's the Festa ST one (someone will be along to correct me I'm sure!). Some of the older diesels are PSA. The best and most reliable are apparently (according to Volvo forums so take that as you will) the Volvo 5 pot ones, T5 petrol, D5, D3 & D4 diesels also 5 pot.  The D5 can be pretty cheap as there are some older ones about, but most are auto. The D3 is pretty pokey as standard and can be mapped to be as powerful as the T5 but with more torque and economy. They are still pretty strong money though as all are facelift. The sensible thing would have been for me to have bought one of these, that's why I have a T5.

[catsinthewelder]

Thanks for the write up Sierraman.  I've been running my dad's old Focus (2011 1.6tdci sport*) for a couple of years now taking it from 123k up to 147k.

I started by getting a trusted local garage to replace the cambelt and water pump along with all the injector seals as 3 were leaking, at least one has gone again.  It needed a new alternator recently along with a bonnet lock (modified to MK4 Mondeo cable and lever).  Rear drop links make an awful noise when they go but are easy to sort out.  Exhaust heatshields are another noisy nuisance but are needed for the MOT and apparently really expensive so were carefully reattached.  One thing that's impressed me recently is the strength of the plastic protection under the sills.  It's taken a couple of heavy knocks due to incompetence recently and survived perfectly.

Seats seem to wear really well and hide the dirt unlike the silver paint on the centre console.

[Bitzer]

On 26/04/2021 at 21:18, sierraman said:

1.6 TiVCT

AFAIK the variators/dephasers/wuzzever-we-call-the-shite do not survive longer than circa 160-180 kkm. I checked the prices and, honestly, they seem rather eye-watering, not to mention the PITA of their replacement.

I had similar advanced* system on my Megane II, which I hated with a passion, and said "never more", but it may be the Ford´s system is better design?

I mean, I am considering a C-max, but bog-standard 1.6/74 kW is supposedly weak for this crate and I am not sure I am brave enough to go down the variable timing valley again...

 

[Shirley Knott]

14 hours ago, SiC said:

I can't help reading this and thinking...

TL;DR buy a Civic Mk8 (Spaceship) 1.8 or 2.2 and not worry about any of that (apart from clutch+flywheel on a 2.2).

Interesting, another one I know nothing about! 

I can't really expect to be able to drive MK4 Golfs indefinitely, at some stage replacements will be required so I'm soaking all of this in...

EDIT- To say having had a quick scout around it seems the Mk8 Civics start from around £1500-2000 range for decent examples, so not really in the same price bracket as a MK2 Focus (Yet).

[sierraman]

4 hours ago, Jazoli said:

On these if you have a wet footwell it's usually the o rings on the heater pipes that go through the bulkhead, they are cheap and easy enough to do if not a little fiddly.

Shit, forgot about that! Cheers!