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1966 Plymouth Fury 3


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looooeeeezzeeeeeeee aaaaaaanaaaaaaa ccent boiyyyyY????

no the shirt didnt get worn for exactly that :D dont blame you

are your eyebrows ok :D

you shouldnt have jumped - the frank on a stick shoulda happened :D



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14 minutes ago, Dick Longbridge said:

That's fantastic! 😅

Are you going to drop the lump back in and smoke the old girl around as is for a minute as a basic shakedown? 

As much as it would be fun it has no seats, no brakes, half the suspension is missing and.. the thought had occurred but probably not...!

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However, this is better yet. The carb is definitely not happy; but all I did was just clean the crap out of it, tear a couple gaskets and hope it worked.

It'll do for now, in going to maybe see about just throwing a rebuild kit on it but the shafts are worn, it's missing a bunch of stuff that's really quite useful to have.. bought some ATF to drop into the gearbox if I can figure out the cooling lines and the snazzy exhaust there doesn't clear the big oil filter (smaller ones are available).

I plan on running in the cam and lifters if I can then setting the engine and gearbox aside and making a start on the body.


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10 hours ago, Jenson Velcro said:

I’m really surprised that the torque reaction didn’t have the engine falling over or dancing across the floor.

That was just to idle speed- could probably rock it if it was actually wanting to run properly.

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Yesterday afternoon was busy.


I made space and wheeled the car outside.


That meant the engine could go at the back of the garage.  That keeps it out of the way and I can poke and prod at it occasionally if I need to.


I took a quick look at the rear lights- the nice shiny ones that came with the car (outside edge) are wrong- they're for a Fury 1 or 2, with the narrow surround. 


Shame, they look nice.


I made a start pulling the stainless trim off. Unfortunately I bent the one on the rear gutter because it refused to budge. Found out why- the gutter appears to have been snagged at some point on a post or something and is bent. I had a go at straightening it up but it needs a bit of metal letting in at the top dent first. I should be able to dolly it true enough to put the stainless strip back on and hide the wrinkles- even like it was, the strip looked perfectly presentable. I just wanted to pull it off so I can whiz the gutters and surrounds down and check see how much rot is hiding. 

Previous owner wanted to nix the rear roof seam trim, as seen by Doctor Bondo's efforts there. Throw a tub of pudding at it and hope for the best.


I got mediæval on it with a wire cup. It's actually not too bad. I need to get the trims, the one I do have for the other side is a bit iffy and it's also plain- I want the "Plymouth" script ones.


I fought with the trim clips (they're great in theory but ugh Chrysler) and got the window trim off. More wire wheel showed the usual B/C body grot in the corner of the window. I had seen the sharp filler edge on both sides (and the middle of the scuttle, heck knows why they rust there) so this came as no surprise and no real worry. 

I need to see if the rubber is flexible enough still to easily liberate the glass. If not I'll cut it out so I can get at the window aperture all the way around. It definitely needs repair in both corners so here begins the strip down.



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I had a quick go at the back of the car in the name of morbid curiosity.


Yup, moderately thick filler for no real reason. 


The scuttle is holed, I do know that... So if this guy done shoveled a whole tub of bog into an otherwise mostly solid panel... Eesh. At least he'll be keeping up with American tradition.


Slapped some paint over it to protect it, wire cup brush isn't the correct tool for this type of panel, it gouges the metal too heavily. I'll get some stripping discs for my angle grinder and strip it back.



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Well, there's the hole.


Unprotected metal surface rusts really badly. Chrysler sure knew how to do that.


The drip rail rotted out at the seam in the corner, and the resulting leak took out the left side of the scuttle box section. That needs to be recreated. Great fun.


The rest of the repairs will be undoing Doctor Bondo's handiwork and filling in all the pinholes where there's a dirt/water trap. Below the lights right there as a good example. The bottom of the trunk lid needs some love.


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Local place didn't have polycarbide wheels, so I picked up a flapwheel instead. That should make fairly short work of the filler.



Edit: Shows you the caliber of the guy doing the work. 5/8" arbor grinding wheel on a 7/8" drive. That doesn't work safely.


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Tonight was productive.


I started by removing the stainless trim, then cutting away the old window seal. It was hard and brittle, and had sealant in the groove holding the glass in, so with a new one available for $78 I decided that was cheaper than sourcing new glass.


It came out in one piece. Happy with that.


Had a go at this corner, which was significantly better than I thought it would be. The other side will likely be much worse.


For a laugh, the (completely rusted away) spring clips that hold the trim on actually unscrewed, two for two.



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Ground the other side down. There's a screw in there...


Which actually undid. Stranger things have happened.


Ground back- not as bad as I had thought. It is holed but I was expecting a couple inches hole and that's just about a couple pinholes and a few screwdriver jabs.


This is the trim I want to reinstate.


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Why so much filler? Why?!


Panel is a bit crappy in places but overall not horrible.


Put a gloss coat on to uniform the panel and see what it looks like.

A ripple and two small dents. That and the CB antenna hole.

Now the trunk kinda lines up better.

Sad. Plan is to remove the inner brace structure, dolly the dents out, replace the inner box and then a small skim of filler in the dimples.


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