Classic Mini. Alright now ain’t it

[ETCHY]

9 minutes ago, garethj said:

As this was bought from a dealer, shouldn’t they fix it?

Have to say that's my thought.

It hasn't run properly from day one so I'd be politely asking them if they wouldnt mind to fix the fucker.

[Zelandeth]

A seven plus grand car from a dealer - who specialises in classics judging from the photos where it was inspected - should run perfectly when handed over.

If this was a £300 motor from a back street garage that changes names every month and a half, fair enough...but it's not.  They need to step up and sort it properly for you I reckon.

It's 50/50 whether it's spark or fuel I reckon...a weak spark can give symptoms which feel quite similar to fuel starvation. 

I take it that you don't have a spark tester? 

Would be worth taking a look at the points.  Is there a big spark when they're opened?  Use something with a plastic handle so you don't get belted by the thing and open/close them manually a bunch of times.  If you're getting a big energetic spark every time that's pretty much a smoking gun that you've got a bad condenser.  It's not at all unknown for these to behave themselves when cold but go faulty when hot, and from memory the engine bay in a Mini does get quite warm.

I've found that the quality of automotive condensers has really gone down the pan in the last few years.  I'm sure there are still suppliers who make decent ones but I got fed up of trying to figure out which was which so wound up installing a remote one using high quality polypropylene film capacitors.  Downside is that they're physically larger so won't fit in the place of the original...plus obviously requires construction.

[schonker]

When I put my mini pickup back on the road, I had the same trouble.We replaced the ignition with new but still had problems.I replaced the earth strap and put 123 ignition like you've ordered and touch wood I've had no more problems

[Mally]

I'd have dumped it back with them by now.  The problem is once you touch it they blame you.

Next time it stops,  remove float chamber lid and check if any fuel in carb.

If fuel in carb, stick a spare plug in a lead and check spark.

Buy a RED rotor arm. I had all this with my MGB and the rotor arm cured it,

[SiC]

30 minutes ago, Mally said:

Next time it stops,  remove float chamber lid and check if any fuel in carb.

Won't this age be on HIF carbs and that much harder to do?

[Mally]

2 minutes ago, SiC said:

Won't this age be on HIF carbs and that much harder to do?

Hmm quite possibly, Most of mine were 1959's.

[nacho man]

Regards the dealer, they have been really good to be fair and have offered to refund me everything I spend, once it’s all up and running. 

 

[High Jetter]

Even so, it's YOUR time taken to solve something that, considering the price paid, is their responsibility. Surely it's not a 'parts only' warranty?

[bangernomics]

I'd have dumped it back with them by now.  The problem is once you touch it they blame you.
Next time it stops,  remove float chamber lid and check if any fuel in carb.
If fuel in carb, stick a spare plug in a lead and check spark.
Buy a RED rotor arm. I had all this with my MGB and the rotor arm cured it,

Been there too, also shite modern caps are prone to hairlines that lose your spark.

[Talbot]

I would threaten to reject the vehicle.  You have the right to do that with absolutely no come-back on the dealers part for 30 days.  After 30 days you have to give them reasonable time to repair it, but at the moment you can take it back and get all your money back if you want to.  Depends if you want to do so or not, but it's definitely worth mentioning to the dealer that you are aware of your rights in this case.

[Egrvalve]

3 hours ago, SiC said:

Won't this age be on HIF carbs and that much harder to do?

G reg would be an HS4 carb but could have been changed by someone.

 

Check for dirt in the float bowl.

 

If the needle valve that the float operates gets clogged with dirt it sometimes doesn't close properly when the bowl is full and the pump just keeps pumping fuel in and the engine just conks out due to flooding.

 

Sometimes you will see fuel coming out of the overflow on the float lid.

 

I'm assuming it's still got the mechanical fuel pump on the back of the block and not an electric one.

 

You would like to think at that price there dealer would be interested in fixing it as others say.

[BeEP]

2 hours ago, Egrvalve said:

G reg would be an HS4 carb but could have been changed by someone.

I'd always assumed Minis changed from HS to HIF carbs around 1980/81 along with the rest of the a-series range.  Even Allegros from March 81 got HIF38 (998) or HIF44 (1275).

[SiC]

2 hours ago, Egrvalve said:

G reg would be an HS4 carb but could have been changed by someone

That surprises me as my 1974 MGB is 15 years older than this and had HIFs. 

[nacho man]

Regards sending it back, I did say I am going to do that on the phone, but they said if I had a trusted garage I use send it there and get it sorted. So that's what's happening at the moment. The first lot of parts, they gave me more to cover time and inconvenience. 

I dropped it off yesterday (next door to my work) and getting the electronic ignition fitted there, plus a battery and anything else it might need to be perfect. they have offered to to sort it all out once done. So cant fault them to be fair.

 When it turned up it was running perfect, wasn't like when it turned up it was playing up, yeah it only lasted 45 mins but how could anyone know that.  Unless that's why its being sold lol The car that can manage 45-60 mins driving, no more no less. 

It isn't going nowhere this Mini. Mrs. T is in love it with it. She even is even watching YouTube videos about them day and night. Which for someone who has no interest in cars is a brucey bonus.

Long live the Mini Etc. Etc. 

[garethj]

That’s a good result, both in terms of getting it fixed and her loving it.  Hope you’re happily bouncing down the road in it soon

[cort16]

Sorry to hear it's giving you bother but it's just as likely the first owner experienced similar issues in 1989

If you're doing an ignition system refresh remember to replace the coil. I remember years ago having issues with coils working fine then playing up when they get heat soaked.

[BorniteIdentity]

52 minutes ago, Danterzza said:

Regards sending it back, I did say I am going to do that on the phone, but they said if I had a trusted garage I use send it there and get it sorted. So that's what's happening at the moment. The first lot of parts, they gave me more to cover time and inconvenience. 

I dropped it off yesterday (next door to my work) and getting the electronic ignition fitted there, plus a battery and anything else it might need to be perfect. they have offered to to sort it all out once done. So cant fault them to be fair.

 

Well done for being grown up about it.  It's all too easy to play the "I KNOW MY RIGHTS LOL"  but it's a beautiful, beautiful example.  I would MUCH rather have it fixed my way, and fixed properly, than send it back to the garage who go "yeaaaah it'll be reet" and hope they've fixed the problem with a bit of witchcraft and parts darts.

I think most level headed people realise that, no matter what the entry price is on an old car, you're always going to get stung with the bar prices.  If you're not up for it, you buy something else.  It's just part of the game innit.

Once you get this straight it will give you many, many years of enjoyment.  I HAVE LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED! 

[Egrvalve]

11 hours ago, SiC said:

That surprises me as my 1974 MGB is 15 years older than this and had HIFs. 

 

11 hours ago, BeEP said:

I'd always assumed Minis changed from HS to HIF carbs around 1980/81 along with the rest of the a-series range.  Even Allegros from March 81 got HIF38 (998) or HIF44 (1275).

I can't claim to be an expert so I may well be talking rubbish, but I think Only the late 1275 Coopers got HIF carbs for a few years before they went single point injection and 998 had HS4 till they stopped making them.

My 1991 998 has an HS4 which I believe to be original.

I may well be wrong though. It wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Egrvalve]

1 hour ago, Danterzza said:

 

It isn't going nowhere this Mini. Mrs. T is in love it with it. She even is even watching YouTube videos about them day and night. Which for someone who has no interest in cars is a brucey bonus.

Long live the Mini Etc. Etc. 

Glad you're happy with it ( when it's running at least)

The good thing is that you'll get to the bottom of pretty much any issue because of the lack of complexity. There's no chasing vague fault codes and changing random sensors until you give up.

Parts are cheap, easy to obtain in the main and they are so well established there's a wealth of information available on all aspects of them.

Yours looks lovely so just a case of keeping the rot away.

[tooSavvy]

11 minutes ago, Egrvalve said:

Glad you're happy with it ( when it's running at least)

The good thing is that you'll get to the bottom of pretty much any issue because of the lack of complexity. There's no chasing vague fault codes and changing random sensors until you give up.

Parts are cheap, easy to obtain in the main and they are so well established there's a wealth of information available on all aspects of them.

Yours looks lovely so just a case of keeping the rot away.

This ^^ In Buckets....

Likely to have more trouble finding a 'millennial' techhy who doesn't open chat with "wheres the OBD, m8?"

Proper HOT ROD, that....

[Talbot]

59 minutes ago, BorniteIdentity said:

It's all too easy to play the "I KNOW MY RIGHTS LOL"

It depends a lot on the dealer.  Many times this isn't needed, but if/when the dealer starts being a tosser, it's no bad thing to know where you stand legally.

[captain_70s]

2 hours ago, cort16 said:

Sorry to hear it's giving you bother but it's just as likely the first owner experienced similar issues in 1989.

Pretty much this. These cars were cheap for a reason and it is still 1950s tech despite the '89 reg.

Looks like it only did 40 odd miles last year between MOTs, so chances are the dealer never drove it, or only took it a spin around the block.

[SiC]

3 hours ago, cort16 said:

If you're doing an ignition system refresh remember to replace the coil. I remember years ago having issues with coils working fine then playing up when they get heat soaked.

The nice thing about the 123 ignition is not only does it turn off the coil if the engine isn't spinning, it's auto dwell too. So it'll current limit the coil once it gets to saturation. Hence if the ignition is left on without it running, the coil won't burn up. Likewise the coil gets an easier life as it will in long duty periods of being at saturation. Basically more user friendly for those new to classics. 

[cort16]

I don't want to overly thread hijacks here what is a properly fucked mini worth? Not a nice one like this but one that has the outward consistency of puff pastry and holes in the body you can get your arm through.

My landlord has 3 minis, all cooking 80's ones with the exception of one late one with fuel injection. All mega rough. He's clearing out the garage and may sell them but I think his pricing may be optimistic given their state.

[BorniteIdentity]

12 minutes ago, cort16 said:

I don't want to overly thread hijacks here what is a properly fucked mini worth? Not a nice one like this but one that has the outward consistency of puff pastry and holes in the body you can get your arm through.

My landlord has 3 minis, all cooking 80's ones with the exception of one late one with fuel injection. All mega rough. He's clearing out the garage and may sell them but I think his pricing may be optimistic given their state.

In my experience - projects are now upward of £1500. I paid too much for mine that hadn’t seen the road in 20 years (£1800) but had no choice really. That would be a very fair price just two years later. 

[cort16]

1 minute ago, BorniteIdentity said:

In my experience - projects are now upward of £1500. I paid too much for mine that hadn’t seen the road in 20 years (£1800) but had no choice really. That would be a very fair price just two years later. 

These ones are very very rough. Rust holes all over the body, rotted out scuttles, rear panels etc. One of them may be savable but would be a lot of the work but the other 2 need look like they need re-shelled.

[Talbot]

Even a re-shell project is a grand as an absolute minimum.  There is nothing for sale for less than that.

[SiC]

I see absolute sheds of Minis going for 2k+ regularly on eBay. Pre-80s go for even more. 

[cort16]

I think he wants about 3 grand for all three. It just doesn’t compute in my head given the state of them .

One has a whole new front end on it which has now rusted almost through. You can even see the parts stickers on them .

[SiC]

2 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

In my experience - projects are now upward of £1500. I paid too much for mine that hadn’t seen the road in 20 years (£1800) but had no choice really. That would be a very fair price just two years later. 

Having seen your Mini, what you paid seems quite reasonable. I'd happily have paid £1800 for it, ignoring the connection you had with it.