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AS communal Rover 75 / MG ZT lickers thread


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Bit of a long shot, but would anyone like a non-MoT'd V8 75? The sills probably need a tickle and the rear subframe is a risk. I've done all the other expensive bits to it. Runs fine, has LPG.

They seem to go for 7-8k in decent MoT'd condition, mine isn't decent or MoT'd so I'm open to offers for less then half that. Just need it shifted tbh, I've got too many cars. 

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On 3/15/2023 at 11:13 AM, SamR380 said:

Bit of a long shot, but would anyone like a non-MoT'd V8 75? The sills probably need a tickle and the rear subframe is a risk. I've done all the other expensive bits to it. Runs fine, has LPG.

They seem to go for 7-8k in decent MoT'd condition, mine isn't decent or MoT'd so I'm open to offers for less then half that. Just need it shifted tbh, I've got too many cars. 

Hi Sam I have a mate who is interested in details of V8. I'll send you a message if ok. Cheers Tam.

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I drove mine in to work today (well technically yesterday now), for the first time in a while.  It was nice to have a bit* more refinement than the 107.  I don't think it's running quite right though - it should be quicker than it is with a 160bhp remap.  It's fine when driven "normally", and is actually pretty responsive off the line, but if I try to thrash it it just gets breathless at high revs.  I'm wondering if the MAF is not in the best of health.  I think I might try refitting the Ron Box with the MAF compensator switched on to see if that helps matters.

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6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

I drove mine in to work today (well technically yesterday now), for the first time in a while.  It was nice to have a bit* more refinement than the 107.  I don't think it's running quite right though - it should be quicker than it is with a 160bhp remap.  It's fine when driven "normally", and is actually pretty responsive off the line, but if I try to thrash it it just gets breathless at high revs.  I'm wondering if the MAF is not in the best of health.  I think I might try refitting the Ron Box with the MAF compensator switched on to see if that helps matters.

Surely that's what diesels are like? Brisk and effortless normally, but with nothing waiting up their sleeve for a treat. Unlike the V6...

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3 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

Does yours have the EGR deleted and mapped out as part of it all?

No, EGR is still present.  I didn't actually intend to have it remapped, but when I drowned the ECU and had to buy a replacement it came with the 160bhp map already installed.

A diesel is never going to be as revvy as a KV6 but as you say, it should pull well through the rev range - mine seems to struggle to reach the redline.

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Try disconnecting the MAF and drive it around. My gold diesel 75 was quite slow and when I sold it to Tam the first thing he did was unplug it and it drove loads better.

The EGR is best thrown in the bin and mapped out if possible as it's just a nuisance as it clogs up. It's easy to physically delete, Robson Rover Repair did a good video on it but I think it would trigger the EML until its mapped out. 

I wonder if the map you have actually does have the EGR deleted from its software, they usually do, mine certainly does anyway. One way to find out!

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10 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

Nope.

Mine has a 160bhp remap and it has plenty of shove right through the rev range. When it locks up in 4th and 5th it certainly gets its shit together.

OK I stand corrected, but when the transmission locks up in an automatic 2.5 KV6, it can be still be in second gear & making the sort of howling noise that only a V6 pulling 6,000 rpm at full chat can produce.

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6 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

The EGR is best thrown in the bin and mapped out if possible as it's just a nuisance as it clogs up. It's easy to physically delete, Robson Rover Repair did a good video on it but I think it would trigger the EML until its mapped out. 

I wonder if the map you have actually does have the EGR deleted from its software, they usually do, mine certainly does anyway. One way to find out!

Is it best to buy one of the EGR delete pipes, or can I get away with just disconnecting and blocking off the vacuum pipe to the valve?

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The other bodge is to blank off said pipe with a 2p, gut the egr and fill any holes with chemical metal. I don't like the sound of that.

Mine is an old kit from Jules which has a new intake pipe, blank and the egr bypass but I think that was from the days before DMGRS stocked everything.

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I took mine out last night with the MAF unplugged and it definitely seems to pull better at high revs and feels less breathless.

I suppose I should do things properly and invest in a new Bosch MAF and an EGR delete pipe, but I'm probably just going to leave the MAF unplugged, at least for now - I think that knocks out the EGR anyway.

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59 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I took mine out last night with the MAF unplugged and it definitely seems to pull better at high revs and feels less breathless.

I suppose I should do things properly and invest in a new Bosch MAF and an EGR delete pipe, but I'm probably just going to leave the MAF unplugged, at least for now - I think that knocks out the EGR anyway.

Result!

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It's more of a general "is it usable by a Luddite or do you need an IT degree?" question really.  I was going to book the car in for a T4 session but the blob that was near me on the T4 map seems to have disappeared, and the nearest one is now in frigging Chelmsford.

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41 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I need it to find out why the electric windows aren't working from the driver's door switches.

From memory you had already disassembled and cleaned the contacts in the switch pack and also tried a different one hadn't you?

Have you tested to see if there is power getting to the pack?

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